Sweet! Awesome info...
I haven't seen any video on how to do this.
But Press and hold the two gauge buttons to get to the diagnostic mode Takes 12- 15 seconds. Then you can cycle through the following gauges. Coolant temp, Battery Voltage, Air temp, Barometric pressure, throttle position, speed, tach, fuel pressure, and back to coolant.
As long as the engine isn't turned off or holding the two buttons again for 3 seconds to exit diagnostics, the gauge you select can be monitored.
I leave mine in coolant temp mode.
The single fan comes on at 187 degrees and shuts off at 174.
Perhaps someone in hotter climates can tell when the second fan come on.
During a long run, I'll go back to the normal gauge to check on my fuel tank level and then switch back to coolant temp.
Last edited by NewGeorgiaWildcat; 05-16-2012 at 06:57 AM.
Sweet! Awesome info...
Right on!!! Great to know!!
2012 metallic green wildcat bone stock but not for long
Great post, THANKS!
Here kitty, kitty, kitty....
OWN a Arctic Cat Wildcat , KTM 525 EXC, Honda CR250R & Just Sold Long Travel Honda Pilot First of all, disclaimers, I have ridden in a Razor S & XP900 as a passenger. I have driven our Rescue-3 SxS which consist of a Honda Big Red & a Polaris Ranger Crew
Grrr... BTW a like the Green string lights on your picture postings...
Last edited by NewGeorgiaWildcat; 05-17-2012 at 07:08 AM.
Awesome tip. I used it today. Perfect
90° weather and the highest temp I saw was 202
That is probably not 100% accurate as the heat soaking from the nearby intake manifold will cause it to read real high (air temp sensor located in Baro sensor on the TB)
also I noticed datalogging my turbo Wildcat that one of the issues with the Wildcat is the actual head temps are way higher than the coolant temp.
I've got great circulation and everything but the right cylinder head (the one in the rear of the machine) stays hotter than the rest of the engine.
Up to 20F higher than the left.
We're looking at applying the fan earlier via a switch to help keep true cylinder head temps around 195F not more, vs 205-215F stock.
At that point the water temp is only 195F because the sensor is located high in the system as well as in one of the coolest place in the cooling system.
I will most likely relocate the stock sensor to a lower hose to make it close to actual cylinder head temps.
Last edited by Turbo Dynamics; 06-16-2012 at 08:19 PM.
The switch to overide the ECU Fan control worked awesome, brought temps down to 160F on the cooling sensor and 195F at the head...
But it trips ECU codes which can be ignored... (Fan relay code)
Hmmm...UTVinc makes a fan override switch also, but doesn't produce a code. Unless you're talking about a fan that still comes on automatically but at a lower temp?
There is two better ways to do this. Get a seperate relay and tap the existing fan connectors like UTVinc or DPDT switch with seperate circuits. When overriding the fans you are on the new circuit, when off, the ECU is controlling the fans.This way it will not throw codes because the ECU will not try to activate the fans when you have the switch ON.
With the other method, it basically achieves the same thing. DPDT switch is probably simpler and less wire routing (none to the engine bay). I didn't have that switch in stock unfortunately.
But I like the rocker swtich UTVinc used, I'll have to look into that.
Last edited by Turbo Dynamics; 06-18-2012 at 11:02 PM.