i see that you are a little upset about your purchase, and more upset about my little spill on what burnt your belt. i guess you missed the whole part about the big tires being 200% heavier, coupled WITH the wind resistance created by a windshield. you apparently proof-read my statement and took it to heart that i blamed your windshield alone or something. high loads, and excessive strain will overheat a belt. you cant make a belt that will handle every stupid mistake an owner can potentially put the machine thru. a belt is rubber, the clutch is aluminum, the aluminum clutch squeezes the side of the belt trying to grab it which in itself creates friction, and heat. you throw a bunch of loads at the machine this friction increases creating more heat. over prolonged periods of high load, you will overheat and blow your belt.
again back on how superior a RZR is, wow so lame. a RZR clutch only has 3 weights in the primary, which means they only have the centrifugal force of those 3 weights clamping down on the primary clutch to grab a belt. in high load situations at slow speeds, a RZR is a belt slipping monster. you apparently aint rode a polaris in tight woods with big tires cause they are not the model for clutch setups. with big tires and high loads they chew a groove in the base of the primary within 500 miles that will leave the clutch basically junk. arctic cats dont slip belts, they have 8 roller weights clamping the clutch closed to the belt which creates a ton of centrifugal force and rarely ever, like next to never, slip a belt.
-- RZRs do have one advantage, and that is clutch diameter. their secondary clutch is a larger diameter than any other UTV on the market. what this does is allow polaris to run a longer belt, (which in turn will run cooler with greater length and surface area) and since the clutch is a larger diameter, the belt runs at a greater circumference in the clutch when at top speed, which also allows the clutches to run cooler. a normal polaris secondary will run the belt down to about a 6" diameter circumference, which leaves about 8" of belt surface area contacted with the secndary at top speed.
-- the arctic cat secondary, will push the belt down to about a 4.25" diameter circumference in the clutch which only leaves about 4.5-5" of belt surface area in contact with the secondayr. since there is so much less belt touching the clutch, meaning the belt is generating tons more friction wrapped at the base of the clutch. running for a high load, for a prolonged period, at top speed, generates more heat in the cat clutch which will melt the glue in the belt and allow the belt to come apart.
lemme say this, the cat is a wicked machine, and whatever you did to cook your belt, just back it down a notch or two and save the belt. you are not in the boat by yourself. head on over to the commander forums and read about belt problems, i can guarantee you that there are at least 2 open threads on the home page about belt problems, and these machines have been out almost 2 years and are still an awesome seller and EVERY single commander slips belts, their stock clutch IS DESIGNED TO SLIP BELTS UNDER LOADS in order to keep from grenading a diff or axles, which eats belts for breakfast. the cat has a spike load dampner in the rear end, but the can-am primary is designed to slip under loads. i have had owners with as little as 6 miles on a commander blowing their first belt. you gotta awesome machine believe me it could be worse