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Thread: New Tie Rod

  1. #1
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    New Tie Rod

    On my first ride I bent a tie rod. Straightened it out on my press, then ordered a new one. Shop said $60 and ordered it. Last week I asked if it had ever come in so they went and checked. Turns out that the OE tie rod was obsolete and it now had a new part number and cost $90. Just got the new one and I'm not too happy! Same diameter as the old one but it is now hollow. Tubing instead of solid rod. If I was racin' the tubing would be ok, ya know, less unsprung weight. Since I don't race anymore I want something that can be fixed in the field, if you bend the solid one it can be straightened, if you bend the one made of tubing you're just SOL. I guess I'll just continue to use the one I fixed and throw the new one it the box for a spare. Still pisses me off, I'd much rather have the OE style, plus I'm not happy about the $90. Sometimes I miss my old job, coulda just made a new one myself.

    Dwight

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    Dwight,

    My dealer sold me a new tie rod for $15. I believe it was off a prowler and should fit Wildcat (that's what dealer said). It is hollow.

    Not sure what your getting for $90? - other than overpriced.

  3. #3
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    I really hope this isn't a recurring theme on the Wildcats. Im not happy about paying high prices for crap just because these machines are new and in super high demand. Its BS. They want almost $500 for the plastic and metal door. And IMO that's insane.

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    Prices for everything- ac or aftermarket is about triple-or more what the price should be I think. I hope that prices in general for parts will come down after awhile. I am concerned that there are a lot of high wear items on these machines. Tie rods for instance. They have a big range of motion, as do the cv joints and all the suspension components. I was thinking about that tonight as I was jacking up the cat to replace the tires. My big floorjack just barely lifted it high enough to get the wheels off the ground!

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    We pay to play, it's only time and money!!!!!!!!. For some a little too much time.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackpot View Post
    We pay to play, it's only time and money!!!!!!!!. For some a little too much time.
    I don't mind paying to play, I just don't like paying 2-3 times what a part should cost.

  7. #7
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    I agree, even the after market guys are over priced for some of the things they are making for our cats.

    But I'm sure as the cat becomes more common and competition gets more furious, all the pricing will come down in time. I'm hoping that the after market guys come out with a chrome molly tie rod

    Mike
    OWN a Arctic Cat Wildcat , KTM 525 EXC, Honda CR250R & Just Sold Long Travel Honda Pilot First of all, disclaimers, I have ridden in a Razor S & XP900 as a passenger. I have driven our Rescue-3 SxS which consist of a Honda Big Red & a Polaris Ranger Crew

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    I really don't want stronger tie rods, I just want to be able to field repair (straighten) them. I guess I just need to buy some aluminum rod and have the machine shop thread them for me. Reccon that will be cheaper than $90?

    Dwight

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    bent mine, how in the heck do you get it off?? the nut turns with the shaft, cant get it to break loose.

  10. #10
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    Tie rod p/n 0405-404 is $9.95 Arctic Cat MSRP The whole tie rod kit with ends is (0505-815) $94.95

  11. #11
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    Jeff, thanks a bunch for that info! Pawnman, you need a skinny open end wrench of the correct size (I forgot the size), there are wrench flats on the top side of the tie rod bolt so you can hold it in place.

    Dwight
    pawnman likes this.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
    I really don't want stronger tie rods, I just want to be able to field repair (straighten) them. I guess I just need to buy some aluminum rod and have the machine shop thread them for me. Reccon that will be cheaper than $90?

    Dwight
    My tie rods are both hollow and there is no way a tie rod can be bent more than what my drivers side one was (it u-shaped to where it was BEHIND the axle shaft) and I was able to get it awefully close to straight and it showed ZERO signs of cracking or breaking, if the dealer wasn't replacing them saturday I could have worked on them more and gotten them straight enough that you would not be able to tell they had been bent. So forget the idea that you cannot straighten the hollow tie rods.

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    Last edited by TxChristopher; 05-24-2012 at 09:41 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
    Jeff, thanks a bunch for that info! Pawnman, you need a skinny open end wrench of the correct size (I forgot the size), there are wrench flats on the top side of the tie rod bolt so you can hold it in place.

    Dwight
    You need a 19mm and a 13mm on the end bolts and an 18mm on the tie rod flat. I used a normal 13 mm it doesn't need to be skinny the rubber boot easily pushed pack to fit the wrench end.

  14. #14
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    Thanks Tx, they must be made out of a softer grade aluminum than I thought. Anyway I got a spare now.

    Dwight

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
    Thanks Tx, they must be made out of a softer grade aluminum than I thought. Anyway I got a spare now.

    Dwight
    Yes sir, you are welcome. It is a good idea to have a spare, straightening them in the field would be a major PITA because although they are aluminum of some kind they are tough to bend back, I had to put a pipe over it and wedge it in a pocket of my trailer to bend it. I was able to then take the bends out a little at a time and mine looked like a large fish hook it was that bad LOL!!!! You definitely would need something sturdy to hold it or otherwise wedge against and leverage to bend it there is no way to bend it back straight by hand or with a hammer or anything like that. They are malleable though, they bend without breaking.
    Last edited by TxChristopher; 07-02-2012 at 02:16 PM.


 
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