Magneto Removal
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Thread: Magneto Removal

  1. #1
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    Magneto Removal

    For those that have removed the magneto did you buy tools from arctic cat or did you figure out another way
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    I built a puller. With all the trouble I went through trying to find the right nut, I wish I would have just bought one.


    Here's one for $35
    Artic Cat Magneto Flywheel Rotor Puller 50mm x 1 5 RH Lifetime Warranty | eBay
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    Thanks. Was just thinking about making one but then thought to myself that's a big freakin nut lol
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    Found it Patrick, thanks. I think I will look for this same one on amazon since I am a prime member.
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    Anyone wanting to sell their puller?
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    I got my puller in the mail finally. What size is that nut? My large socket set is not deep enough so I guess I need to get a new one to get that nut off. And you just pull the nut, then go at it with the puller, right? Thanks.

    Anyone?



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    Quote Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post
    I got my puller in the mail finally. What size is that nut? My large socket set is not deep enough so I guess I need to get a new one to get that nut off. And you just pull the nut, then go at it with the puller, right? Thanks.

    Anyone?


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    Quote Originally Posted by CRAWLR View Post
    I built a puller. With all the trouble I went through trying to find the right nut, I wish I would have just bought one.


    Here's one for $35
    Artic Cat Magneto Flywheel Rotor Puller 50mm x 1 5 RH Lifetime Warranty | eBay
    Crawler, do you have a pic of the one you made? I bought this one and I don't think its right

  10. #9
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    So, do you just remove the nut and then use the puller?

    QUOTE=mgrotel;222551]I got my puller in the mail finally. What size is that nut? My large socket set is not deep enough so I guess I need to get a new one to get that nut off. And you just pull the nut, then go at it with the puller, right? Thanks.

    Anyone?


    [/QUOTE]

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    Just in case the details are not clear to everyone, remove the big nut, which threads onto the center of the flywheel assembly. You thread the puller onto those threads, securing the body of the puller to the flywheel. The big bolt in the center of the puller pushes against the crankshaft extension and pops the assembly off. There might be a piece that fits onto the crankshaft extension so that the puller bolt does not bear directly against the crank extension. One of those left-handed bolts used to turn the crank when doing a valve adjustment would also protect that shaft.

    I had an unusual failure, where the stator broke loose from the stator cover and messed up the deeper threads on the flywheel. The dealer near me couldn't use the AC tool without possibly damaging the threads in the tool. I bought three long bolts to use in place of 3 of the socket head bolts you can see in the pic above, then used a standard 3 arm puller to get the flywheel off. I very nearly gave up on the process until I got the three long bolts adjusted just right so that the puller didn't side-load the flywheel. I put the whole lash-up in tension, then put the same amount of torque on each of the three long bolts.
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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
    For those that have removed the magneto did you buy tools from arctic cat or did you figure out another way
    Usually involves calling in the X-Men!
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    Thank you very much, I appreciate the clarification. I just really don't want to cause anymore unnecessary damage. Also, I found a Krator brand puller on Amazon for $32, if anyone needs one in the future. I'm revoming the flywheel for easier access in order to weld the broken boss used to hold the starter gear pin, rather than replacing the entire crank case.
    Quote Originally Posted by mbrandt1402 View Post
    Just in case the details are not clear to everyone, remove the big nut, which threads onto the center of the flywheel assembly. You thread the puller onto those threads, securing the body of the puller to the flywheel. The big bolt in the center of the puller pushes against the crankshaft extension and pops the assembly off. There might be a piece that fits onto the crankshaft extension so that the puller bolt does not bear directly against the crank extension. One of those left-handed bolts used to turn the crank when doing a valve adjustment would also protect that shaft.

    I had an unusual failure, where the stator broke loose from the stator cover and messed up the deeper threads on the flywheel. The dealer near me couldn't use the AC tool without possibly damaging the threads in the tool. I bought three long bolts to use in place of 3 of the socket head bolts you can see in the pic above, then used a standard 3 arm puller to get the flywheel off. I very nearly gave up on the process until I got the three long bolts adjusted just right so that the puller didn't side-load the flywheel. I put the whole lash-up in tension, then put the same amount of torque on each of the three long bolts.
    Last edited by DJtwo5; 07-09-2019 at 06:24 PM.
    mbrandt1402 likes this.

  14. #13
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    Good find! (The Krator flywheel puller).
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets


 

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