Removal of the motor from the fuel pump. HOW ??
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Thread: Removal of the motor from the fuel pump. HOW ??

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    Removal of the motor from the fuel pump. HOW ??

    I have searched for this to no avail. Getting very frustrated. Can't unsnap the collar from the lower housing.
    There's got to be a simple solution. I don't want to crack the collar. Help would be much appreciated. Thanks, David

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    pm sent

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    There might be differences between various models. You posted in a generic forum. On a 1000 or X, you disassemble the fuel level sender, then you can undo a sliding lock (IIRC!), and it all comes apart.

    You'll be disassembling down to the pump, BTW, not the motor of the pump. The pump is a sealed unit.
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets

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    Thanks: I got the pump out of the housing and found a cracked nipple at the top of the pump. This is why I had 0 pressure.
    It's a Walbro pump so I hope I can find just the nipple.
    Thanks Again.

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    Replacing the nipple would be great. My recollection is that the pump is swaged together and not really serviceable.

    There was a thread a few months ago that identified a website that sells replacement pumps, which is better than AC. They want to sell you the entire pump and fuel level sendor assembly.
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets

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    https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35461...2012-2014.html here is one that sell both regulator and pump

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    https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35461...2012-2014.html here is one that sell both regulator and pump seel for bout $116 bucks

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    Quote Originally Posted by toyman View Post
    https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35461...2012-2014.html here is one that sell both regulator and pump seel for bout $116 bucks
    I was going to send you to this thread, ill bet you have crack in the pickup assembly down about 1/2 way
    2012 Black Cat / 2013 Red Ltd. - Same mods on both machines

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  10. #9
    Lee
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    There doesn't really seem to be any tutorials on taking this pump assembly apart here. I will add a few pictures of the procedure as I just took mine apart.

    This weekend I pulled out the Cat to just change the oil and clean the air filter to get ready for the fall. It ran just great around the block before I did any work. Anyway, Finished the work and it fires right up and idles just fine. Go to drive it and can't get RPM'S past 3K. WTF? Thought I screwed something up. It then goes from bad to worse and I barley got it in the garage. After I parked it I noticed that the pump is barely audible when the key is first turned on. It's usually very noticeable. Today I pulled the pump assembly out to inspect it. It seems AC used a cheap non-reinforced piece of fuel line to adapt the pump nipple to the top of the housing. This piece was completely torn. Only thing I didn't include is where I cut the cinch clamp to remove the pick up tube.
    Start by removing the float arm. There are 2 tabs behind where this is circled to allow you to release it.

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    Next remove the sending sensor board by carefully prying back the lock tabs while simultaneously lifting upwards gently
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    Once the sensor is free you can slide the sender base in the direction of the arrow to release it and expose the housing lock tab.
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    The lock tab for the housing can now be seen. Pry it gently upwards from underneath to release it and allow the lower housing to twist and unlock.
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  11. #10
    Lee
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    Next disconnect the two electrical connections on the top of the pump. Note how the black wire is held in by the regulator spring.
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    From here you should be able to twist and pull the pump free from the upper housing.

    Here is the bad chunk of hose I found on mine. I'm willing to bet that this is the #1 cause of pump problems on the big Cat.
    I found some 5/16" reinforced fuel injection line at Carquest that was a perfect fit. Just need a dab of Vaseline to ease installation.
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    foxspoiler and toyman like this.

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    Nice write-up and pay-it-forward. Without instructions, it can be very frustrating. By the time I figured it out, I just wanted it all done and didn't grab the camera.
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets


 

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