What do I need to run bigger 30" tires?
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Thread: What do I need to run bigger 30" tires?

  1. #1
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    What do I need to run bigger 30" tires?

    Just picked up a stock 2015 Trail Limited. It came with stock tires/wheels and a set of 14" rims with 30" Gorilla Silverbacks. I am not opposed to running the bigger tire. But figured some components would need upgraded to handle the extra weight. Will this kill wheel bearings and belts? Or am I OK to swap them out? I like the idea of it essentially lifting the buggy up 2.5", that never would hurt.


    Joe

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    Welcome CarnageZ28. Bigger tires / wheels eventually kill a lot of things, belts and wheel bearings included. If you don't do some kind of clutch work, or clutch kit, the stress will start to wear it out. Possibly ruin drive shafts, and diffs. I know that a lot of guys run bigger tires / wheels, but IMO, nothing good will come out of it.
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    Kind of what I figured, maybe I will sell them then. They have about 75% of the tread left so I am sure someone would want them. Or save them for the muddier rides and just use them when I know we are going somewhere nasty lol.

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    I run 27's which gave me a bit more clearance and I know some guys run 28's as well. I think that's about as big as you can go without needing to do additional clutch work.
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    Probably a handful of guys running bigger than 28". I wouldn't just cause I would expect to be fixing a arms, bearings etc.. you can't get GC gain without a mix of tire dia increase and at least good springs. If I did mine again would go true size 27" probably and definitely get the bandit springs. Then you can lift a bit with springs and keep unharsh ride and a bit of gain from tire dia. I have other hobbies that need my $ so try to avoid making stuff break or wear out prematurely!
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    I run 30"x10" ITP Rocktanes on 14" NL wheels on all 4 corners with Bandit springs and SATV lift bracket on the lower setting in the front with 1" hub spacers in the front and nothing in the rear. Nothing rubs or bumps at all. I have weld-in bracing on my rear lower arms and weld-in frame stiffener in the front as well as SATV lower arms. Rides really great with 4psi in the tires! OE wheel bearings have done fine and ball joints have held up no problem. I ran steering stops at first but if you disconnect the front sway bar you don't need to run any steering stops with 30" tires. I have a Speedwerx secondary and no other driveline modifications.
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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarnageZ28 View Post
    Just picked up a stock 2015 Trail Limited. It came with stock tires/wheels and a set of 14" rims with 30" Gorilla Silverbacks. I am not opposed to running the bigger tire. But figured some components would need upgraded to handle the extra weight. Will this kill wheel bearings and belts? Or am I OK to swap them out? I like the idea of it essentially lifting the buggy up 2.5", that never would hurt.


    Joe
    Hi, I'm new to this whole forum thing. Just joined. With questions of my own about the stock cage and cage failures. But I know that's probably for another thread. Saw your post, and coincidentally I have done all the research recently on bigger tires and a lift for my trail Kitty. You need to lift that buggy some and upgrade your springs is the first step. Heavier springs help with the stock spring sag all trails suffer from and will lift the buggy back to full stock ride height. Second thing to do is get some wheel spacers unless those new 14" rinds and tires have an offset. Usually 1.5" all around is good, cuz when the Kitty goes up the wheels come in some. This will get you ready for a 2.5"-3" lift kit as well.
    I am up to date on all this because I just ordered all those components for my 2015 wildcat trail limited. Unfortunately I rolled and totaled it before all the components came in, so I couldn't install any of it. I've been returning lots of parts the past two weeks.
    So far looks like I'll need to resale a brand new in box set of Bandit UTV med rate springs and a hard top plastic roof. If any interest let me know.
    Also, does anyone have any info on stock cage failures?

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    Quote Originally Posted by elusiveerik View Post
    Hi, I'm new to this whole forum thing. Just joined. With questions of my own about the stock cage and cage failures. But I know that's probably for another thread. Saw your post, and coincidentally I have done all the research recently on bigger tires and a lift for my trail Kitty. You need to lift that buggy some and upgrade your springs is the first step. Heavier springs help with the stock spring sag all trails suffer from and will lift the buggy back to full stock ride height. Second thing to do is get some wheel spacers unless those new 14" rinds and tires have an offset. Usually 1.5" all around is good, cuz when the Kitty goes up the wheels come in some. This will get you ready for a 2.5"-3" lift kit as well.
    I am up to date on all this because I just ordered all those components for my 2015 wildcat trail limited. Unfortunately I rolled and totaled it before all the components came in, so I couldn't install any of it. I've been returning lots of parts the past two weeks. ����
    So far looks like I'll need to resale a brand new in box set of Bandit UTV med rate springs and a hard top plastic roof. If any interest let me know.
    Also, does anyone have any info on stock cage failures?
    Unless you go pay the money for a PROXP or a KRX that has a full gussetted 2" cage most of these older/smaller machines cages are really only designed to protect the driver for a couple rollovers over their lifetime. One common upgrade to the Trail/Sport is to add the rear kicker bars and then weld or clamp in bars on the outside of the cage. This will help strengthen the cage up a bit. But the best way to keep your cage in good shape is to drive smartly and keep your machine off its top by all means possible. Guys that roll their machine and are alive to tell the tale means that the cage is doing its job, even if it is a mangled mess after the accident, it still protected the occupants.
    Last edited by Tanker_01; 01-10-2020 at 06:13 AM.

  10. #9
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    Mine only survived one roll over. And it really was a forward flip onto it's roof from doing an Endo on its front brush guard that got stuck into the ground at the base of a little dirt mound on the backside decent of that dirt mound. Front A pillar just folded in on us with the windshield. Backbones and harnesses saved us, keeping us in our seats and keeping the B pillar from folding back too.

  11. #10
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    Still ended up hitting our heads on the desert floor and compressing our spines since the buggys ceiling lowered below where our heads were. Was only traveling about 15-20 mph at the time. I am gonna be that guy that stands out of the crowd and wears helmets despite also having a cage from now on out.


 

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