Magneto cover work around/fix
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  1. #1
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    Magneto cover work around/fix

    Hi all

    I drive a 15 WCX with 2000 miles

    Lately I noticed a small leak from the magneto cover - it is cracked
    I am running 29 and usually don't go over 7000 Rpm

    Question is if someone really tried to change the own bearing to a slightly bigger inner diameter bearing to avoid the cracks?and if so which bearing did you use?
    Any after market heavy duty cover maybe?
    Any more solutions/ideas will be welcomed

  2. #2
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    If the ID of the bearing is larger, the end of the crankshaft will not be supported unless you sleeve it. That's a heck of a lot of work when the basic design isn't a problem. OEM covers don't cost an arm and a leg, so if this is intended as a way to save the cracked cover, I would just replace it.

    Two problems come to mind that would crack a cover. One is the starter gear drive blowing up. The second is a bent crankshaft. Make sure you check the run-out towards the end of the shaft, or you might be replacing the cover again.
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets

  3. #3
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    My intention by using a bigger ID bearing is to allow a little bit of float to the crank and by this hopefully avoiding cracking the new cover.
    I live in Israel and any type of engine swap is illegal so it's out of the question.

    Opening my engine and changing my crank to the same one but new will cost thousands of $
    And will only be a temporary fix at the end.

    I need a cheap easy fix that works.

    Maybe reinforcing the cover in certain areas will do the job?

    Maybe using a lower tolerance bearing will give me just the extra float I need to avoid the next brake and still support my crank?

    More out of the box ideas are welcomed

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  5. #4
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    Unfortunately, I don't think there is any solution where your crank won't continue to break parts. A bent crank and 7000 rpm isn't a good combo. If you allow the end to float, I think it will ultimately take out the plain bearing deeper in the crankcase.

    If you can get the parts imported, used cranks are just a few hundred US$ if you have the skills to crack the motor and replace it. Re-manufactured cranks are about $500.
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets

  6. #5
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    No upgraded cover available?
    Better casting or thicker?
    I wonder how AC didn't upgrade like they did with the old clutch and belts.

  7. #6
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    If a part fails because of a problem with an adjacent part, you fix where the problem originated, not the collateral damage. And by "fix", I mean re-engineer.
    2015 Wildcat 1000X Ltd, Textron rear axle upgrade, Alba slotted brake rotors (front diameter on all 4), flip-up windshield, soft rear window, PRP seats, custom seat mounts with tool storage, 6 pt harnesses, AC spare tire mount, AC step rail/sliders, push-button E-brake, self-cancelling turn signals using rear brake lights, stalk light controls, 4"x7" rearview mirrors, front/rear hitch receivers, receiver mounted winch w/ wireless remote, LED roof light, Rugged intercom & headsets


 

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