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2012 Rear Differential Assem. # 1502-822 & 2013.5+ Rear Differential Assem. # 2502-083

Hey guys, so putting the cart before the horse here, but other than the bladder system on the 12 model differential, what are the differences? If I have to replace my rear differential, can I use the new ones? I am assuming the actual fitment is exactly the same, but probably some differences in gearing.

Calling on Pat, Rock, TX, and you other hard core guys who probably already know the answer to this question.

Thanks

EDIT: WHOOPS, THE NEW DIFFERENTIAL PART NUMBER THAT I CANT EDIT IN THE SUBJECT LINE IS 2502-083.
 

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Everything is exactly the same except the tighter Spike Load Dampener in the new ones and the barbed fitting is slightly different for a hose instead of the bulb
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Crawlr, so basically if I need to get a new one of these, I should get the "new" part number for my 12 chassis, even though my front differential is still a 2012. I just want to make sure the gearing is the same and fitment will be the same.
 

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Yes if you compare the individual part numbers of the components, all the numbers are the same except the SLD and the barbed fitting. Same gears, same cases
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ya, I took them off and ran hoses, the bulbs get hard and do not release pressure, at least on mine that was the case.
 

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I recently bought a new rear diff and the sld went out on the first ride. I wish I would have welded it up before putting it in. Just a little food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I recently bought a new rear diff and the sld went out on the first ride. I wish I would have welded it up before putting it in. Just a little food for thought.
That is so crazy, on my rear differential now, I have not once slipped the sld.
 
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took the bulbs off mine ran hoses so it could vent with the bulbs don't vent it the rear end will build up heat and moisture with it closed off where will it go right back in your rear end then you have water in your diff had to rebuild mine with about 4000 miles on it I have 5238 miles now
 

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My 2013.5 has the bulb still!
The bulb wasn't changed till 14. Pull off bulbs and run long hose. Not necessary but I cut small piece of sponge and zip tied it to end of hose to act as a filter
 

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Yeah I agree with what crawler said
 

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I recently bought a new rear diff and the sld went out on the first ride. I wish I would have welded it up before putting it in. Just a little food for thought.
Big tires kill the SLD. First weekend with 30s on mine and the SLD went crazy
 

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My 2012 sld didn't like big tires (had to weld it) but later I put in an entire rear diff (take off from a conversion) from a 2014 machine ... the sld is much tighter and has not popped even with 33 inch tires on big vertical rock faces. I believe AC really tightened up all those spring washers. :cool:
 
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My 2012 sld didn't like big tires (had to weld it) but later I put in an entire rear diff (take off from a conversion) from a 2014 machine ... the sld is much tighter and has not popped even with 33 inch tires on big vertical rock faces. I believe AC really tightened up all those spring washers. :cool:
The newre SLD is better but still no match for me lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey boys, any trick to taking out the rear differential? Shouldn't have to move the motor right, just the lower radius bar mounts, boot clamp on rear of driveshaft, and bracket bolts. Just want to know what I am getting into here, lol
 

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Hey boys, any trick to taking out the rear differential? Shouldn't have to move the motor right, just the lower radius bar mounts, boot clamp on rear of driveshaft, and bracket bolts. Just want to know what I am getting into here, lol
Yep, it's just that easy.
Well, after you get the axles out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yep, it's just that easy.
Well, after you get the axles out.

Axles are a breeze, especially when one is just hanging on by a thread, lol

Thanks Crawlr
 
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