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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So lets see who can help me out , I got a Wildcat 2012 that I got last week , the guy from who I got it owed me some money and we agreed to exchange it for this Wildcat , but I owe him some after the trade , so we agreed to get the Steering issue fixed before I pay him the difference ...

The problem I have with it is that when going straight it seems fine but when I turn either left or right it wants to tilt that way with force , he said it happen right after hitting a stone on a trail ride he did , and the only thing bent is the left tie rod , which I corrected .
So I tried lifting the front off the ground and the steerring wheel feels the same way, even if not under load ,so when you turn it , you have to turn it with a bit of force and then it wants to jump into that direction , on both turning ways.
Next I removed the steering motor from its shaft connecting to the transfer case and conected it to steering cable post , and the motor turns freely and smooth , next I open the transfer gear case , and the gears are still like new, theres no sign of damage in there either , so Im really puzzled as what could cause it to do this
 

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So lets see who can help me out , I got a Wildcat 2012 that I got last week , the guy from who I got it owed me some money and we agreed to exchange it for this Wildcat , but I owe him some after the trade , so we agreed to get the Steering issue fixed before I pay him the difference ...

The problem I have with it is that when going straight it seems fine but when I turn either left or right it wants to tilt that way with force , he said it happen right after hitting a stone on a trail ride he did , and the only thing bent is the left tie rod , which I corrected .
So I tried lifting the front off the ground and the steerring wheel feels the same way, even if not under load ,so when you turn it , you have to turn it with a bit of force and then it wants to jump into that direction , on both turning ways.
Next I removed the steering motor from its shaft connecting to the transfer case and conected it to steering cable post , and the motor turns freely and smooth , next I open the transfer gear case , and the gears are still like new, theres no sign of damage in there either , so Im really puzzled as what could cause it to do this
Welcome V8ter. Quite possible that the steering rack is jacked from hitting the stone. Pretty easy fix. Jack up the front end, loosen up all the rack bolts, and slowly turn the wheel from full lock left, to full lock right a couple of times. Rack should reenter itself. Tighten all bolts, lower, try it, see how it feels. Make sure the tie rods are not bent. Use a ruler/straight edge to be sure. Let us know if this works.
 

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I had a bad crash, and that is kind-of what mine does. I am going to be installing the following parts, and will let you know if that fixes the problem:

Arctic CatKIT,RACK CARRIER (FOR -814 RACK) (inc. 7-9 and 20) for 2012WILDCAT 1000 GT METALLIC GREEN$184.5111$184.51
Arctic CatSUPPORT BAR, STEERING RACK for 2012 WILDCAT 1000 GT METALLIC GREEN


Total cost for parts from MLS is $351
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks , Im gona try doing just that and let you guys know if it helped fixing it , btw you guys know if a bad belt would cause the utv to run at 60mph max? the motor turns over 7000rpm but it goes 60mph and I thought they could reach easy 70?
 

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a 2012 wet clutch model should hit 65ish.... 7k RPM is a little too low, need to lighten the rollers (maybe try interchange black / blue, or all green). You should be at about 7300 at WOT.
 

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On the steering you may have to loosen the bolts on the power steering unit brackets along with the bolts on the rack and pinion - then turn the wheel to make the shafts line up. The sensors in the power steering are very sensitive and cause the 'brain' to add or subtract power at the wrong time. Once they seem to be lined up re-tighten a little at a time in some sort of cross pattern to assure you don't knock it out of line again.

On the top speed - tire size has a big affect on top speed. I've always run big tires and can't get the machine over 60 at my altitude. (even when doing the math to correct for tire size) :p

Also, on a 2012 machine that has a lot of miles on it you could have the wet clutch beginning to slip. Eventually when the wet clutch shoes lose enough of their friction material the engine will suddenly zing up to the rev limiter as if you'd thrown it in neutral ... happens about 45 to 55 mph. Not real expensive to put in new wet clutch shoes ...

The guys at the Wildcat rental shop in Moab do a lot of wet clutch replacements because customers don't pay attention to instructions... they try to crawl in high gear and wear the shoes prematurely (belts blown too). Even doing it properly running in low range (I do a lot of crawling) I wear out a wet clutch in 1800 miles. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tonite Im gona try to readjust the bracket and put it together like that and see if thats the issue with this case , and with the clutch , I was going around 50 mph and suddenly the moter revs up until hitting the rev limiter and it felt like it was slipping , I backed right off the acelerator and back on and it didnt do it again but I was going slower by then , so probably something I will need to do as well , so what parts are required to replace the wet clutch?
 

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Tonite Im gona try to readjust the bracket and put it together like that and see if thats the issue with this case , and with the clutch , I was going around 50 mph and suddenly the moter revs up until hitting the rev limiter and it felt like it was slipping , I backed right off the acelerator and back on and it didnt do it again but I was going slower by then , so probably something I will need to do as well , so what parts are required to replace the wet clutch?
Depends how big your budget is. I would go with a WCD Kit. You don't have to go big bucks crazy, and get the STM WCD. The Speedwerx WCD is great too. If you are just talking about replacing clutch, you could that do. What do you think you want to do?
 

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Not only what you want to do, what do you feel comfortable doing.... I would try wet clutch shoe slugs first to see if that works for your riding style, that is only 60 bucks and some elbow grease. You could even replace the actual wet clutch shoes at that time. The wet clutch is pretty simple and cheap to tune; however, optimal would be wet clutch delete, but if you are not duning or running for speed, that may not be the best for you.

I can't give you the link for the slug kit, but you can google them, it is KMS Performance

Then you can get a D&P Performance secondary (which is pretty darn good) and then buy some green and blue rollers to get your rpms set right.
 

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Tonite Im gona try to readjust the bracket and put it together like that and see if thats the issue with this case , and with the clutch , I was going around 50 mph and suddenly the moter revs up until hitting the rev limiter and it felt like it was slipping , I backed right off the acelerator and back on and it didnt do it again but I was going slower by then , so probably something I will need to do as well , so what parts are required to replace the wet clutch?
I think this is all the parts you need - but maybe the "slugs" would be good at the same time. If the material is worn off the shoes I don't think slugs alone would do the job - never tried that.
2016-02-03_171610.jpg

2016-02-03_172400.jpg
 

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here's the install video for the slugs:

Here is the wet clutch removal video:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think Im gona replace the stock clutch and if I like the Wildcat then do more mods to it . Whats different in the X 2014 vs my 2012? Is the clutch different? Does it have more hp? Or what differences are there?
 

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I think Im gona replace the stock clutch and if I like the Wildcat then do more mods to it . Whats different in the X 2014 vs my 2012? Is the clutch different? Does it have more hp? Or what differences are there?
X definitely has more horsepower. 92 compared with 77. Different clutch, Team clutch. One of the biggest differences and or complaints, due to the larger cams, it idles very rough. Everything else is about the same. If you get the X LTD, you would get full doors, and Elka shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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Thank for this,I greatly appreciate it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
X definitely has more horsepower. 92 compared with 77. Different clutch, Team clutch. One of the biggest differences and or complaints, due to the larger cams, it idles very rough. Everything else is about the same. If you get the X LTD, you would get full doors, and Elka shocks.[/QUOTE]

Is there an easy way to bring the 2012 model to the X hp?
 

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X definitely has more horsepower. 92 compared with 77. Different clutch, Team clutch. One of the biggest differences and or complaints, due to the larger cams, it idles very rough. Everything else is about the same. If you get the X LTD, you would get full doors, and Elka shocks.
Is there an easy way to bring the 2012 model to the X hp?[/QUOTE]

Yes, if you have money, no if you don't I mentioned before, get the ECU reflash, combined with your free flowing muffler, gives you 7 hp more. I wouldn't get all.wrapped up around a horsepower number. Even the X is way down on horsepower compared to all other SXS's. Just go out and have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quite possible that the steering rack is jacked from hitting the stone. Pretty easy fix. Jack up the front end, loosen up all the rack bolts, and slowly turn the wheel from full lock left, to full lock right a couple of times. Rack should reenter itself. Tighten all bolts, lower, try it, see how it feels. Make sure the tie rods are not bent. Use a ruler/straight edge to be sure. Let us know if this works.[/QUOTE]

You hit the nail,Im very thankfull for all your help,I did exactly that and it worked like a charm,and the Wildcat drives so much better now and its awsome!!! Im glad I got to get the wildcat and this forum is so helpful, that is a great plus for owning one as well knowing theres such fast help makes me a happy camper!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A quick easy question, I couldn't find it thru the search , how do I engage the 4x4? Can I do it while driving? Or should I stop completely and put it out of gear? As well the 4x4 lock? And going from Low to high gear should I stop before hitting pulling it into H?
 
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