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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! been reading alot on this forum, so i decided to join and see if you guys can help me out with my (new to me) 2014 arctic cat wildcat 1000x! to make a long story short i just bought this and it is not running right. when i give it full throttle whether in Hi gear, Low Gear, Or neutral it will not rev past 6200 RPM'S? previously i couldn't get it to go past 5800 RPM's until i did the GPS mod, right after i did this i was able to hit 7600 RPM'S just one time now it wont go over 6200. just did full valve adjustment, Did bypass mod on GPS, new spark plugs, new wires, new oem belt, just went thru primary clutch, and checked all the rollers, etc... everything looks to be good? fresh 91 octane fuel. car runs great when given half throttle or less but once you lay into it, it starts to sputter and act like its missing. going up hill, down hill, flat ground, etc.... no change. Any suggestions or tips? both header pipes are sizzling hot so that gives me the assumption they are firing? car has 1,360 miles on it.
 

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guess if you broke in the new belt correctly- didnt change som. at the clutch- air filter is free/clean- sounds like a spark or fuel problem!?

did you use the correct plugs? dont remember - fuel pressure in diagnostic mode?? fuel filter?
 

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Last night I went back over everything, made sure I wasn't missing anything small. Everything is clean, belt break in was done right, when going into diagnostic mode the fuel on the gauge says 48. I've heard this is just the fuel level tho?? Not actual fuel pressure, i could be wrong?

As far as spark plugs go, I went with the ngk 7411 cpr8e. Volts at idle are 13, and move up to 14 when accelerating so that's telling me the stator is functioning? I'm at a loss, as far as fuel filter goes the only one I know of is the sock in the tank, and it "looked" clean. Id hate to just throw parts at it i'm going to try and get a manual gauge to test fuel pressure.
 

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How did you bypass the GPS? Sounds like it's still messing with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked timing marks on cams, andthey seemed to be right? I might triple check them. A buddy of mine has a jumper made with the 3 pins that he keeps with him when he goes riding, I borrowed it to try and narrow down the issue.
 

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A buddy of mine has a jumper made with the 3 pins that he keeps with him when he goes riding, I borrowed it to try and narrow down the issue.
Just checking here. Could you have installed it backwards? With the clip on the wire harness facing up, you want to jump #1, #3, and #4 (left to right). You should have an 'H' on your speedo all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I believe so, but I will check on that, never say never! I do have an "H"at all times on the cluster and haft to press the brake pedal to start.
 

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I think you are right to check the fuel pressure, though I would expect a description of a 1000 with a marginal pump to be "it will run, then cuts out, then runs again". Sputtering, at least for me, stopped when I got rid of my last car that used a carb.

BTW, the source that sells OEM model number Walbro pumps also sells the fuel strainer. AC doesn't. Do a search and you'll find that info. [edit - the search function here seems to be finicky. Or maybe just totally f'd up. Google quickly found what I could not:https://www.wildcatforums.net/forum/wildcat-trail-trail-xt/83514-fuel-pump-replacement.html. You can tell google to only search one site, a feature I didn't know about until a few years ago. "walbro site:wildcatforums.net" will get you a list of posts from this site.

Since you are seeing an "H" in the gauge, I think your friend's gear position hack is probably fine.
 

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Check your cam timing; be certain that you are rotating the engine in operating direction only. This engine is very easy to be off by only a tooth, if the cams were ever out. You did adjust the valve lash? To what clearance? using the timing marks on the flywheel?
-You said you installed new plugs? what do they look like now? What are you running for gap?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry for the late response, long story short. after tearing into the side by side again checking valves, etc.... I ran a compression test and my rear cylinder was only at 130 psi when warm! Tore the head and cylinder off to find I lost a ring and washed out the cylinder. Currently waiting on parts go slam it back together. Thanks for everyone's input!
 

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Ugh. 1000/X piston rings are stupid expensive. I wanted to throw my engine back together with used rings (I'm not expecting to use this one for more than a few hundred miles, then the boosted motor goes in), but finally decided I couldn't cut that corner.

BTW, my ring compressor is huge and I didn't like the idea of using a hose clamp on the rings. What I found was that there is room to load the piston into the bottom of the cylinder, guide the assembly into position and insert the wrist pin. It does take a deft touch - there isn't a lot of piston in the cylinder, so it can easily be dislodged while you are lining everything up. And of course, there is that moment of truth when you have to install the wrist pin clip without losing it down into the bowels of the engine (I only had to fish for it once). And don't forget the base gasket, which complicates the process since it is suggested that you put a dab of RTV around the oil supply port.
 

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I'm curious. What happened to the bits and pieces?
 

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Ugh. 1000/X rings are stupid expensive.
Why couldn't you pop off the wrist pin, then take the piston to a speed shop. Surely they could mic it and sell you a ring kit that would fit the piston. Hell, the rings for my SBC cost about 30 bucks (IIRC).
 

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Yup, good rings for a small block chevy are in the $40 range. 4 times as many rings, for peanuts.

I mic'd my pistons and rings and spend a few hours looking through ring manufacturer catalogs. Nada.

Similarly, I spent a couple of hours measuring and answering questions from a tech at ARP, trying to find reasonably priced head studs. I was pretty excited when he sent me part numbers and specs - a set was going to be about $80. Then I looked at his lengths - he had forgotten to include the cylinder height! ARP doesn't stock anything close to the length required on the H2.
 

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Thousands of motors out there, and nothing that matches. Amazing!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm curious. What happened to the bits and pieces?

I believe I have found most of the pieces, ( I hope so atleast) I have layed them out next to the piston ring and it seems to be the diameter it was suppose to be, before it broke. Most of the pieces were lodged in the piston skirt, and I found another in the oil pan. I hope I don't find out later that I missed a little piece. I have been inspecting every little nook and cranny thus far.
 
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