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The service manual doesn't list any kind of spec for the Crankshaft end play, but it does seem to have some as there are no thrust bearings in there for it. The one I have here is in pieces, still waiting on parts or I'd at least get you a 'what this one measures' for some comparison. Another post on here from last year where that user states around 1mm on his machine, though he's also asking if that's normal or not, but it's at least something to compare yours with. Crankchaft end play?

That engine seems to be more prone to spinning a rod bearing, and if that happens you're in for a real treat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The service manual doesn't list any kind of spec for the Crankshaft end play, but it does seem to have some as there are no thrust bearings in there for it. The one I have here is in pieces, still waiting on parts or I'd at least get you a 'what this one measures' for some comparison. Another post on here from last year where that user states around 1mm on his machine, though he's also asking if that's normal or not, but it's at least something to compare yours with. Crankchaft end play?

That engine seems to be more prone to spinning a rod bearing, and if that happens you're in for a real treat.
Mine has about 3/16 of an inch play and when you rev up the engine it seems like the clutch side is hitting the housing as it goes in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mine has about 3/16 of an inch play and when you rev up the engine it seems like the clutch side is hitting the housing as it goes in and out.
I was wondering if there is any fix to this?
That seems excessive, the Primary isn't loose on the crank is it?
we took the primary off and just by the crankshaft and that’s what the play is.
 

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Sorry, I'd have gotten back sooner but I wanted to toss the crank back into the block here and have an actual look see first. It's been awhile now since I've torn this thing apart. While there is no actual thrust bearing, there is a thrust surface cast and machined in the top half of the block at the center crank bearing location.

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I didn't get all exact with the dial indicator, but just a quick and dirty measurement with the caliper and it's around 6 or so thou of end play with just the crank sitting in there in the top half. For you to have as much end play as you state, there must be a LOT of aluminum in the oil pan and/or oil filter and I'm surprised that thing hasn't come apart at the seams yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry, I'd have gotten back sooner but I wanted to toss the crank back into the block here and have an actual look see first. It's been awhile now since I've torn this thing apart. While there is no actual thrust bearing, there is a thrust surface cast and machined in the top half of the block at the center crank bearing location.

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I didn't get all exact with the dial indicator, but just a quick and dirty measurement with the caliper and it's around 6 or so thou of end play with just the crank sitting in there in the top half. For you to have as much end play as you state, there must be a LOT of aluminum in the oil pan and/or oil filter and I'm surprised that thing hasn't come apart at the seams yet.
I did a closer measurement of the play and it is 2mm. I also drained the oil and the oil plug looks like it has normal fine filings at the tip of the magnetic end of the plug. No large aluminum in the oil when I drained it, unless it’s in the bottom of the oil pan. I guess my next step is to remove the engine and pull off the oil pan . Can the crank bearings be replaced without tearing the whole motor apart? I also checked another engine exactly the same as this one and did a dry fit of the crank and it has virtually no play. This engine had a turned rod bearing on the clutch side so still looking for a replacement crank for it. Thanks for your info.
 

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Welcome.

Afraid not. The bottom half of the block has all of the 'mains', so once you pull the oil pan you can't even get a good look at everything in there and it has to be split in half to get to them.

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Once the block is split, you could probably roll in the top half of the bearings without having to get into the top end of the engine any. So you could probably get away without doing a complete tear down, but you're going to have to go pretty deep in there to do them.

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I tried a LOT of options for a replacement crank, and wound up on eBay of all places, and bought one from a machine shop in Canada that refurbishes them with the rods and rod bearings. That seller was amdmoteur66 on there, and around a week or so ago they did have another Trail crank listed, but that one is gone now. I'd imagine they'll have another listed sooner or later, so might want to keep a lookout there for one or give them a shout. amdmoteur66 | eBay Stores

Getting some of the bearings seem to be the real bain of this thing and even the dealer here can't get the ones I need until maybe, maybe October. I've had them on back order from Partzilla now since January of this year, and talk about expensive parts. They are pretty proud of every piece of this machine. If I knew then what I do now about the time and cost this thing is taking, I'd honestly have told my friend to toss a quart of 20w-50 in there and run it until it comes apart and then scrap this engine and do a repower on it. A repower would also be a royal pain in the parking spot, but I can't see it being any worse than this has been so far. I'd take fabricating and wiring issues any day over waiting for a part that I can't make and seems to just not exist anymore.

If you get into yours and find any good part sources please do pass it on. The 3307-122 bearing is about the only piece of the engine puzzle left here on this one that I need.
 
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