[Grey Rider]

I usually search for tutorials and advice online for my vehicles but could find precious little about the Textron XX. So I decided to do what I could to provide one that might help someone else figure out the accessory wiring. Here it is:
View attachment 234994 View attachment 235002 View attachment 235010 View attachment 235018 View attachment 234994 View attachment 235026 I wanted to wire up a horn that I had so I began exploring the accessory wiring situation. Found some interesting things out. Only the SW ACC 1 plug is hot (only with Ignition ON). None of the B1, 2, 3 circuits have power under any circumstance. I inserted the proper rated fuses in the fuse box so no slots were empty but no joy on the B circuits. I finally ran a wire from the battery to a horn relay and used 2 prong flat connector to supply switching power to the relay. Found a good ground using a screw that holds the antifreeze overflow/tool box bracket. Anyone had any success getting power to the B circuits? The big rectangular female connectors under the hood by the firewall must be for Textron accessories as I cannot find a pigtail to plug into them. See picture ACC B1. Flat 2 prong connectors are available at most auto parts, tractor supply, even maybe Home Depot or Lowes. You'll have to cut the wires because most of these flat connectors are extensions. I'll attach some annotated pictures. The dealer was no help in sorting this out, giving advise for Arctic Cat Wildcat wiring which does not apply. 90% of what he said was wrong. The horn works only with the Ignition switch ON.

 

[1HasBeen]

Well, that doesn't sound too promising after they made such a big deal about all of these "useful pre-wired circuits". I wonder if there is a jumper harness that has to be installed to make the other stuff live? Ford pickups used to be like that for the trailer circuits you had to install a patch harness under the hood. Of course, that does nothing for the three circuits ganged on one fuse.

 

[Msully]

Did you look behind the dash panel? I thought those were for other accessories that would be operated by aux switches on the dash panel. The hot wires may be there behind the dash along with the other end of the wires to those plugs. You just need to wire up a switch?

 

[Wired]

The block you have under the hood by the firewall looks like a terminal switch block for adding future switches. Next question - is there any power at the fuse block for those fuses?

 

[sand_duner]

those are switched, you have to plug in a switch for those to work, B1 switch goes to B1 plug, etc

 

[CATILLAC]

Hey grey...
We were trying to hook up rugged radios and found the rugged switch supplied would power the b plugs (with fuse installed) thru the large switch plug using the rugged switch. That meant we would have to wire the radio power through the tunnel inducing more noise to the radio. With a switch, and a fuse through the big prewired accessory plug, voilla... power to the b SAE plugs.

 

[Blade]

I added a switch for my soundbar but was disappointed that it doesn't work unless the key is on. I should've checked first because I could've just plugged in right by the seat(no power without key on). I had to remove the end (behind the dash) and wire the switch in order for the top and bottom lights to work on the switch too.

 

[Wired]

those are switched, you have to plug in a switch for those to work, B1 switch goes to B1 plug, etc

Interesting. Usually you want the fuse to be first in line so all components downstream (switches and your load) are protected via the fuse. In this case it seems the fuse is between the switch and the load, which means your switch is not protected. Wonder why they would do it like that?

 

[Njorg]

those are switched, you have to plug in a switch for those to work, B1 switch goes to B1 plug, etc

What do you mean by they are switched? Where’s the switch do you mean like a rocker switch that turn the stuff on and off? Or is it some other kind of switch? How would switch put power to a dead wire? I’m not very good at wiring stuff so thats why I ask

 

[sand_duner]

The big black plugs behind the dash are to add switches and plug them in to the holes in the panel, then the plugs with the same number will work when you turn on the switch. Picture #4 shows the black plug that goes on a rocker switch it is labeled ACC SW B1, in picture #3 the plug is labeled ACC B1 that will become hot when you turn on the B1 rocker switch, you also have a fuse for it labeled SW ACC B1. This goes for ACC SW B2 & B3 also which are near the fuse block.

 

[krom]

As was said above, there is a large black connector behind the switch knock outs, that is labeled.
You plug a switch into that connector, then plug the accy into the matching 2 wire connector, then insert a fuse in the matching labeled spot in the fuse box.
FWIW "C" is the one below the headlight switch.

 

[Grey Rider]

Good point about checking to see if there is 12v at the fuse positiions on the terminal block

 

[Grey Rider]

did the radios come with a male plug for the big rectangular female plugs under the hood? The dealer has no clue about any of this.

 

[Grey Rider]

I just wish Textron would include more info in their manual or at least make an online manual or tutorial about the wiring. It could be a great thing but now it's just confusing.

 

[Wired]

Good point about checking to see if there is 12v at the fuse positiions on the terminal block

Based upon other peoples responses on how this is wired, you won't have any power at the fuse block. You will need to install a switch in that terminal block and when you turn on the switch, it will then allow the power to flow through the fuse and to your item you want to operate.

Based upon the terminal block picture you have provided, I believe this is the correct switch diagram for that block: http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/B60.pdf The downside here is the light on the switch will only be on when the switch is in the on position (read: still hard to find at night). Luckily though, it would be rather easy to add another switched wire and ground to this block to have a switch with an independent light that would be operated by the ignition.

did the radios come with a male plug for the big rectangular female plugs under the hood? The dealer has no clue about any of this.

Probably not, unless they came with a rocker switch.

Those big rectangular blocks under the hood are for a rocker switch, like the Carling Contura switches. Look at OTRATTW or UTV Inc. Basically the switch will have pins on the back that will plug right in to that terminal block. If you look under accessories > Terminals on OTRATTW's website, you can find that exact same terminal block.

 

[Bamacat 12]

thanks wired ,they confussed the heck out of me for a second their, Im good to go now

 

[vikter]

I'm test fitting lighted rocker switches now, everything is working except the rocker is not lighting up. I tried turning on headlights, still nothing.
I think they have to be jumped, gonna try it out jumping wires behind the plug.
View attachment 235570

edit: Tried jumping as in pic, but that only turns on bottom led in my dual led rocker and it stays on, in off or on position. I'll keep messing with it....

 

[Wired]

I'm test fitting lighted rocker switches now, everything is working except the rocker is not lighting up. I tried turning on headlights, still nothing.
I think they have to be jumped, gonna try it out jumping wires behind the plug.


edit: Tried jumping as in pic, but that only turns on bottom led in my dual led rocker and it stays on, in off or on position. I'll keep messing with it....

It depends on how your rocker switch is wired. Independent means it will light once power is applied, independent of the switch position. Dependent means it will only light when that component is on. You can have a rocker with the upper or lower independent and the opposite is dependent(this is what I like) or one dependent (only on when the switch is on).

What does your switch look like? Does it have a model number anywhere on the body?

EDIT:
Looks like this is how the switch above is being wired. http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/J66a.pdf

I have in my notes from wiring this switch that I do NOT want a jumper between 2 & 6 like the image above shows. When I did this it did not work. Instead I have 6 coming from a separate ignition switched wire that will only illuminate the bottom LED when the ignition is on.

 

[vikter]

Its a Carling V1D1 5-pin I got from UTV inc, top and bottom led. I'd like bottom on with lights or ignition and top when accessory switched on.

 

[Wired]

Its a Carling V1D1 5-pin I got from UTV inc, top and bottom led. I'd like bottom on with lights or ignition and top when accessory switched on.

Ok. That's the diagram for that switch. Instead of jumping from pin 2 -> pin 6, try wiring pin 6 to a separate ignition switched source. I think I tried the same thing and it wasn't working for me either. I have in my notes that pin 2 and pin 6 can come from the same stud on my fuse block, but they cannot be jumped on the switch. It has to be a separate wire to pin 6.