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Things are a bit slow, so I thought I'd post up a few pics of some of the things I've added to the WC.

Here's a pic of the dash bar and radio mounting bracket my fab guy made up for me. You should know better. Dog

Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Windshield Glass

Here's a pic of the harness bar he welded in and the Crow 2x3 5 pt harnesses I installed.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Auto part Automotive exterior

Here's a pic of the front of the intercom and radio. I like Rugged Radio, great prices, service and good products. The radio is a 55 watt Yaesu that I progam myself with 112 race channels and 7 weather channels. Nice big display, crystal clear sound and plenty of power for the money.

Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Automotive exterior

Here are the 2 seat heater switches with the LEDs on. Still have room for 1 more switch, but no plans for anything there yet.

Vehicle Car Auto part Family car Subcompact car

On the left is my horn, right side is the switched connector for the future addition of a 10" Rigid SR light bar. It's powered through a relay controlled by the stock headlight switch high beam position. Turn on the high beams and the 10" LED bar will come on as well. The roof light bars will be controlled from a different switch right next to the headlight switch.

Vehicle Car Auto part Engine City car

more to come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
more pix

Here's my LED whip with fold down mount. The wiring is half of the cable that will power the future roof mounted LED parking/brake lights and amber safety light. There is also 12Vdc for dome lights as well. Once I get 2 more roof bars welded in (slightly curved roof) then the aluminum roof will get installed with all of the lights at the rear.


Pipe Vehicle Wheel Metal Steel

Wideband antenna. Not quite as good as a 5/8 wave, but until the roof gets installed, this will still give me about 25-50 mi range. Also bought some billet headset hangers.

Vehicle Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Motor vehicle Windshield

Had 3" cut out of the shifter shaft, makes it look a lot nicer, got the shifter out of my way. The big round button is the horn button, either driver or passenger can honk at idiots/friends or my idiot friends.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Auto part Steering wheel

Here's the glove box fix, magnetic catches on both sides with the metal plates epoxied to the door. Tennis ball for the rottweiler, never leave home without the ball!!

Vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Where did you get the accessory switches?

I got them from Amazon.com. They're Sierra sealed marine switches with LEDs. About $8 ea with $8 shipping for the entire order. I bought a DPDT switch for the roof lights (I want to switch them separately) so I bought a total of 5 switches, the DPDT was a bit more, like $13.
 

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Hey socaldmax, could a person use a flightcom radio out of an aircraft, their much cheaper then the others, Could you rig one up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not pictured: the UTV Inc skid plates and a-arm skids (excellent pieces!!) and the battery cutout switch mounted behind the passenger seat on the firewall.

Future plans include a 10" Rigid SR LED bar on the front of the hood, a winch mounted under the hood, a 30" Rigid E series bar on the roof, 2 duallys pointed outward, LED dome lights (white LED strips), a curved aluminum roof with 4 bars supporting it, a WCD kit, some ECU tuning, exhaust, etc.

I'm thinking of having the stock Duro rear tires shaved and have 9 paddles molded on, run the 4 stock wheels and stock front tires in the sand. Doesn't seem like I need beadlocks in the dunes. I'm leaning toward the EFX Moto MTC tires on a 14" beadlock for the dirt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey socaldmax, could a person use a flightcom radio out of an aircraft, their much cheaper then the others, Could you rig one up?

I recommend against it for several reasons.

1. Are you sure it's cheaper? At Rugged, you get the intercom box, headset cables, 2 headsets and an audio cable for an MP3 player for $500. Maybe a bit less on sale.

2. They use the same standardized plugs everyone else uses offroad, 5 pin and Nexus. If you buy something non standard, if you need to borrow a headset or jump into another's rig, your headsets or cables might not be compatible.

3. The offroad stuff is ruggedized, with surface mounted devices and potted boards, so they can take the abuse. If you buy a system that wasn't built for it and it breaks, the mfr probably won't honor any warranty since you used it in the wrong application.

What you see pictured there was about $900 worth of equipment, including the interface cable and PTT switch. Still a bunch cheaper than the $1900 I paid to PCI for my first 4 seat intercom with a 50 watt radio and crappy antenna.
 

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Looks like all you need is a CB antenna and you would be a full fledged trucker!! I wish there was some more room in there so you didn't have to mount your units on the dash. That's the good part about the sandrails is that they usually have room in or under the dash for that stuff. Looks good though. I need a set when I get my cat to talk to everyone else in the group. Does that system play your ipod into the headphones and mute it when someone talks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks like all you need is a CB antenna and you would be a full fledged trucker!! I wish there was some more room in there so you didn't have to mount your units on the dash. That's the good part about the sandrails is that they usually have room in or under the dash for that stuff. Looks good though. I need a set when I get my cat to talk to everyone else in the group. Does that system play your ipod into the headphones and mute it when someone talks?

I kinda like it on top, the dash is so low, it doesn't obstruct my view. Some of the newer sandrails have really high dashboards, and fake hood scoops, really ruins their view down into the next dune.

Yes, the intercom plays mp3 or ipod music until someone talks or the radio cuts in. Really adds a whole nother dimension to riding with some music and muted engine noise. I always turn the squelch up and the bitter half still hasn't figured out I can't hear a damn word she says after all these years!

LOL
 

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Hey socaldmax, could a person use a flightcom radio out of an aircraft, their much cheaper then the others, Could you rig one up?

There is a place called the antenna farm. The Antenna Farm :: , Your Two Way Radio Source! They have 55 watt mobile radios in the VHF band (used in most race setups) starting @ $179.00 & up. For instance the Vertex VX2200 55 Way programmable goes for 249.00

Mike
 

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I recommend against it for several reasons.

1. Are you sure it's cheaper? At Rugged, you get the intercom box, headset cables, 2 headsets and an audio cable for an MP3 player for $500. Maybe a bit less on sale.

2. They use the same standardized plugs everyone else uses offroad, 5 pin and Nexus. If you buy something non standard, if you need to borrow a headset or jump into another's rig, your headsets or cables might not be compatible.

3. The offroad stuff is ruggedized, with surface mounted devices and potted boards, so they can take the abuse. If you buy a system that wasn't built for it and it breaks, the mfr probably won't honor any warranty since you used it in the wrong application.

What you see pictured there was about $900 worth of equipment, including the interface cable and PTT switch. Still a bunch cheaper than the $1900 I paid to PCI for my first 4 seat intercom with a 50 watt radio and crappy antenna.
So wait, $500 doesn't do car to car does it??? I thought it was over 1k to get car to car??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So wait, $500 doesn't do car to car does it??? I thought it was over 1k to get car to car??
The intercom portion is $500, which allows you to talk inside the car.

The radio/antenna portion is about $300, which allows you to transmit and receive to another car. Then there is an interface cable and PTT switch which adds another $100.

RacerX, PCI, MRC, etc all charge up in the $1,200 - $1,500 range for a 2 seat kit that includes a $500-600 radio. Rugged Radio sells their intercom kit for $500 (about $45 extra for the PTT switch) and I sell Yaesu radios (usually a 75 watt model for sandrails, but I used a 55 watt unit for my WC) for $355 with interface cable and antenna.

Not only does this save you about $300 or more, the Yaesu radios have a bigger, clearer display, it's sealed better (fine dust gets into the Icom displays over time), the 75 watt output gives you 50% more power than a 50 watt Icom, and they usually sell a 1/2 wave antenna. I provide a 5/8 wave antenna that doubles the range over and above the added power output. While some guys have had trouble transmitting from one side of Glamis to the other (8 or 9 mi), I've communicated clearly up to 85 mi, fro mthe top of Osborne lookout to the top of I-8 at the mountains west of Ocotillo.

That's due to a combination of 50% more power, better antenna (100% better propagation pattern) and custom tuning of the antenna (154 MHz center freq. vice the standard 144 MHz 2 meter tuning). A LOT of antennas are mounted in the wrong location. Anything other than the middle of the roof is less than optimal.

If a guy wants to mount it on a tab at the rear, I provide a wideband antenna, tuned for 154 MHz. This provides 75% of the range of a 5/8 wave. If he can mount it in the center of the roof, then a 5/8 wave antenna tuned for 154 MHz is provided. I've seen 1/4 wave antennas (very low output) mounted down by the gas tank or by the engine. Their radio can put out 50 watts, but they're actually transmitting maybe 5 or 10 watts due to poor antenna selection and tuning and bad mounting location. The reflected power, 40 or 45 watts of it, is getting reflected back into the output transistors of the radio, where they really overheat and fail eventually.
 

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I recommend against it for several reasons.

1. Are you sure it's cheaper? At Rugged, you get the intercom box, headset cables, 2 headsets and an audio cable for an MP3 player for $500. Maybe a bit less on sale.

2. They use the same standardized plugs everyone else uses offroad, 5 pin and Nexus. If you buy something non standard, if you need to borrow a headset or jump into another's rig, your headsets or cables might not be compatible.

3. The offroad stuff is ruggedized, with surface mounted devices and potted boards, so they can take the abuse. If you buy a system that wasn't built for it and it breaks, the mfr probably won't honor any warranty since you used it in the wrong application.

What you see pictured there was about $900 worth of equipment, including the interface cable and PTT switch. Still a bunch cheaper than the $1900 I paid to PCI for my first 4 seat intercom with a 50 watt radio and crappy antenna.
Advise taken!!!:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know this post is a month and a half old, but where did you get the headset hangers, I've never seen any like those.

I got those directly from Latest Rage, $15 ea. They also sell a pretty good variety of other billet items, including mirrors, clamps, etc. They have a website with pics and part numbers, but you can't order online. You have to call them and give them the part numbers over the phone, then they'll give you a total and ship it out.

They're located in Alpine, CA, in case you're in the San Diego county area.
 

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Socal I gotta say you do always display excellent well thought out things for your cat that will just flat work and provide super details to boot, bravo brother, bravo!
 

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Really like the attention to detail really learned alot. That's what this forum is all about. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Socaldmax,
Which seat heaters did you install?
Was removing the seat cover a PIA?
Any problems installing them?

I bought the seat heaters through Amazon, they were $49.95 for the pair. I cut off the switch that comes with them and lengthened the wires, wired them into the lighted rocker switches.

The were very easy to install. I pulled out the seats and flipped em over on something soft. There are 4 bolts holding the bottom bracket on, just loosen them a few turns, but don't remove them because if they come out of the hole they're a real pain to get back in there.

The seat cover material is sewn onto plastic strips, these strips are snapped into a groove on the bottom edge of the seat. I took a philips screwdriver and pried one end up, once one end is pried up, they just pop right out in succession. Takes less than a minute to remove the seat covers. I did cut a tiny slit in the back edge of the bottom seat cover to let the cable come through.

The heater pads came with elastic straps, I cut those off with scissors and trimmed the pad down a little to fit better (careful not to cut any of the heater wires) then laid it on the foam. The cotton covering of the heater sticks nicely to the foam, kinda like velcro, then I just put the seat covers back over and snapped the plastic strips back into the slots. The back and bottom seat heaters plug into each other then plug into the cable from the switch. I left about 6" of slack behind the seats so I can unlatch the seat and tip it forward a ways to reach the cable to unplug it when removing the seats.
 
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