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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short I bought an Alba clutch kit back in 2018 and never installed it. I was scared of the process and the adjustable weights. I had an unrelated issue that I thought was the clutch so, time to get at this.

The Alba clutch was test and tuned in the desert and dunes, which I ride more often then slow trails and rocks.
Kit cam with everything needed except the tools. I bought those from Brute Performance.

Alba recommended the STM arms be setup with weights 4-2-2. Which is 4 on the TIP, 2 in the center, 2 on the HEAL.

From the LONG 8pg clutch thread I was really scared this setup was not going to work for me, well it does work and it's not all that bad.

Factory clutching for me was 2800rpm engagement and 8800rpm maxed out.
The Alba clutch is now 3800rpm engagement and 9000rpm maxed out.

I don't really like the 4k engagement but driving this weekend and getting used to it, there really wasn't an issue. I was out in Calico, CA desert and rock crawling (legit 4ft wall crawling). I forgot I even had diff-lock, HA HA! I was in 3wd LO and crawled everything fine. When in the rocks, I kept looking at my RPM's trying to see where the clutch could be an issue. At 8-12mph I was at 5500-6K rpm and just cruising along no issues. Out in the open desert washes I was always up at 7k-9k cruising and I really liked how fast the reaction timing from pedal down to full rpm was.

End of the weekend, I'm no longer scared of the clutch although I may try a different primary spring to lower engagement.

Parts included in the kit: You can source parts from any supplier, but this kit is complete as listed.
Venom 180-320 Primary Spring # 210492-018
Alba/Venom 200-280 Secondary Spring # 210493-011
Alba Spring bushings
STM adjustable weighted arms #4001151
STM Helix 38-45 non-ebc # 4001102

252499

252504


Special Tools needed: (typical standard/metric sockets and allen tools required)
Torx socket T60
EPI Clutch Puller # PCP-17
Clutch clamp to hold the assembly to unload/load the springs safely - I made one, super easy with 1/4-20 rod and a nuts and two plates (see pictures)

252503


Rubbermaid cooler for layout and 4" vise on a stand come in handy to work from :)
 

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Not saying your wrong because I don’t know the Alba set up...but when they call for 4-2-2 or whatever, usually it’s from the heal to the toe??? That would give you the same weight overall but a WAY different starting RPM. Are you sure you have it correct? You may be right and I know I am an idiot so I may be wrong lol.

Oh and nice write up and if you like it and learn to drive it...rock it!!


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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Nice report and great to hear your happy with the setup!
Did you have a difficult time removing your primary clutch? I need to remove mine and was having a challenge getting it to loosen up. A few members suggested Teflon tape on the threads of the puller tool and some WD-40,grease,or water.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not saying your wrong because I don’t know the Alba set up...but when they call for 4-2-2 or whatever, usually it’s from the heal to the toe??? That would give you the same weight overall but a WAY different starting RPM. Are you sure you have it correct? You may be right and I know I am an idiot so I may be wrong lol.

Oh and nice write up and if you like it and learn to drive it...rock it!!


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I called prior to install to confirm, so unless I completely heard wrong then that's what they recommended.

Nice report and great to hear your happy with the setup!
Did you have a difficult time removing your primary clutch? I need to remove mine and was having a challenge getting it to loosen up. A few members suggested Teflon tape on the threads of the puller tool and some WD-40,grease,or water.
It was tight and we backed the puller out to be careful, put some anti-seize on the threads and a small gob of grease on the tip, then BAM it just fell off next run in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The arm weights are still an "unknown" to me. I just can't figure out in my head what they do or how they work. I've read and watched so many threads/videos it just doesn't click for me.
 

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The arm weights are still an "unknown" to me. I just can't figure out in my head what they do or how they work. I've read and watched so many threads/videos it just doesn't click for me.
Put simply...if you move the weight/mass away from the pivot point or in this case the pin, then it requires more RPM to swing the arm and move the sheeve/belt to a higher ratio.


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Discussion Starter #7
I appreciate the simple help/comment but that still doesn't click for me.
I get that the weights make the arm react slower/faster based on rpm to overcome the weight, but what does that equate to?

More weight on the tip takes more rpm and more weight on the heal less rpm to engage the belt but how much weight per rpm is what eludes me, and maybe that's just learning by opening changing weights aka tuning. That's the part that scares me I do not want to keep playing with this thing over and over again, clearly I will have to. None of the instructions or videos tells you any of that weight to rpm info.

Anyway... lets move on, see ya'll on the trails!
 

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What DuneTrack-n wrote seems contradictory - how can adding weight at the tip do one thing and adding weight near the fulcrum do the reverse? The tip weight position is actually outside the fulcrum, so weight in that position actually works to keep the clutch open, until the clutch begins to close thanks to the weights in the inner locations. When the tip weight crosses the fulcrum line, it starts closing the clutch, so changing the balance between the inner locations and the tip location will change not only the engagement, but the slope of the shift.

If anyone with adjustable clutch arms wants to do a fun little experiment, take all of the weights out of the inner positions and fully weight the tip location. Since the secondary clutch spins freely on an XX in Park, put it in Park, start the engine and increase RPM. If the tip position is outside of the fulcrum, the clutch may not ever close. If it does close, it will be due to the clutch arm itself having enough weight to overcome the tip weights, but it will happen at a really high RPM.
 

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Now throw in the fact that the arm weight has to overcome the spring pressure...and there is a million different combos of starting and finishing spring rate that play a big role on primary cam arm shift characteristics and the total weight of the arms.

And yes the only real way to learn is play and test with different combos for your riding style/terrain.....it’s a black art for sure and that is why you bought a kit that has been tested and proven by Alba.


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So why not call Nate and ask him?
 

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Now throw in the fact that the arm weight has to overcome the spring pressure...and there is a million different combos of starting and finishing spring rate that play a big role on primary cam arm shift characteristics and the total weight of the arms.

And yes the only real way to learn is play and test with different combos for your riding style/terrain.....it’s a black art for sure and that is why you bought a kit that has been tested and proven by Alba.


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Yes, exactly. If you don't have the time to experiment with different weights and springs and helix, then leave it stock. Black art? yes to most people
 
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