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Discussion Starter #1
I've cleaned the rad and bled the system but it still overheats. I have read about the connector update for the sensor and will probably just replace it but I was wondering if anyone knows the symptoms if it's the connector? Mine started after I had to tow a friend's quad out after it broke. That day the weather went for a crap and it was cold and raining. I could see steam coming off the rad but the temp was close to normal so I didn't think to much of it.
2 weeks later we go out for a day trip and within about 20 minutes it was throwing the code for overheating. Brought it home, checked the rad again, raised the front end and bled the system but didn't really see much for air coming out. Idle it for about an hour and took a couple rips up the road and back with no issues. Went out again this past weekend and same thing, 20 minutes in and it was getting hot again. This time I had my trusty Worx pressure washer with me and have a windshield washer bottle that I had full of water under the hood. Cooled it down with that got to a creek and washed the rad with it pretty good.
We didn't get far when my buddy got his Gator stuck which took about a 1/2 for me to winch him out since his winch was broke. The whole time the temp was fine. We started heading back to fix his winch since I wouldn't be able to pull that beast out of some of the holes coming up if he got stuck. On the way back same thing, started getting hot and to go about 6 KM's I had to stop 3 times to let it cool down.
The fan works, the stat is opening and closing and the water pump is circulating. It seems fine when just idling but when cruising at even part throttle it heats up. It doesn't boil over nor does it take any coolant out of the over flow when it cools which seems strange.
Any ideas?
 

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I had a buddy's who's trail was overheating. He replaced the radiator cap and all was well again. Sorry, I'm not sure of all of his symptoms, I just know he had to be towed out and a radiator cap resolved his issue.
 

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I had a buddy's who's trail was overheating. He replaced the radiator cap and all was well again. Sorry, I'm not sure of all of his symptoms, I just know he had to be towed out and a radiator cap resolved his issue.
I highly doubt that 'fixed' the issue.

All the cap does is control what pressure it pushes coolant out into the overflow or overboard and raise the boil temperature by a couple degrees. If you put on a new OE or a cap with higher pressure rating all you are doing is keeping the fluid in. The temperature will be the exact same with or without the cap, just boil point and overflow pressure changes.

If you're getting hot before you replace the cap you will probably get hot after you replace it too it just wont push coolant out or boil as early.

The way I see it, safe operating temperature is under boiling. Without the radiator cap on your boiling point is about 223F assuming you have a 50-50 mix. if you have more water it will be lower and more coolant it will be higher. Having a 1 bar radiator cap will raise this boiling point to around 250F. Once you hit that boil point air pockets will form inside your engine and allow the temperature to skyrocket. Once you hit this boiling point you are in the break stuff temperature because your coolant will show 250 or 260 or just maxed out on your meter but your actual inside temperature will be way higher than that where the bubbles have formed and that is when you melt aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am going to put a new rad cap on just because but I don't think that's the problem either.

Does the updated the connector give the signal for the fan to come on or something else?
 

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You are saying the fan works but the coolant is not being drawn down.
It sounds like you still have air in your system.
You may want to raise the front end up about 2 foot again amd let it cycle for a while.
 

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Craggar.
I've had all the same overheating issues also. I've done most of the same things to solve the problems. Replaced radiator cap, bled system, applied dialectical grease on sensor connection and cleaned the radiator. But I went one step further. I installed a 3 way bipass switch on the fan. I can run it full time if I want. It helps when I am plowing since I'm not going very fast and backing up a lot. I think the radiator isn't big enough to really cool enough when you're going slow. It may not cure all the overheating but helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys,
Boonedog, yes the fan is coming on and when I rev it up with the cap off the coolant goes down but after I run it to temp and shut it off I thought the coolant in the overflow wasn't going down at all as it cooled. I did notice it had gone down a bit when I was working on it yesterday so it is sucking coolant back into the system like it should. I will be bleeding the system again as I have the rad and oil cooler out right now to give them a real good cleaning.
Greywolf, I was thinking on doing the same,where did you tie into the fan circuit with your switch and does the fan still work the way it's meant too if you don't turn it on manually? I have my Rhino on a manual switch but I have forgot to turn it on a couple times.
 

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It's been awhile since I wired it so I will try to remember since I am not looking at it right now. The switch is a three way on, off and bi-pass. the On side is wired so it comes on when the sensor tells it to (normal) the middle is the off portion and the bi-pass side is wired to a constant hot wire. It will run even when I shut the engine off. It took me awhile to make sure it did what I wanted and works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's been awhile since I wired it so I will try to remember since I am not looking at it right now. The switch is a three way on, off and bi-pass. the On side is wired so it comes on when the sensor tells it to (normal) the middle is the off portion and the bi-pass side is wired to a constant hot wire. It will run even when I shut the engine off. It took me awhile to make sure it did what I wanted and works fine.
Thanks Greywolf, I will update what I find tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I forgot to update this post. My issue seems to be fixed now. I took the rad along with the oil cooler out and soaked both in soapy water over night after a quick rinse they both looked like new.
I also put a switch in for the fan which works great and no codes.
I used a relay inside of a 3 way switch and here is how I wired the relay in case someone else wants to do it.
85 Switch on dash
86 Ground
87 12V fused power from Battery
87A Fan Power wire on ECM side
30 Fan side power wire
 

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I'm betting on the cleaning of the rad, I found that on our trail the front and rear of the rad can look clean but mud is baked into the core and it doesn't cool properly. I occasionally remove the grill ( 4 screws if you don't have a bumper) and run water from the garden hose through the core to flush out the dirt, you'll be surprised at how long the water will be dirty coming out the back side.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes I agree but the only place I couldn't see through the fins was where the oil cooler sits and it was plugged solid as well. There is a fair bit of mud at some of the places we ride so having the manual switch for the fan should still come in handy sometimes in between the thorough cleanings.
 
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