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Discussion Starter #1
I'm seeing some differential fluid on the concrete under my 2013 Wildcat. It looks like it might be the left rear axle seal in the differential. There's also some brown stuff near the boot on the right axle. If I were to replace the axle seals, is this an "on-vehicle" repair, or is it necessary to remove the differential? Or maybe it's not the seals that are leaking (see photos). Thanks again for any advice.
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Left Axle Seal.jpg
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Right Axle Seal.jpg
 

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is that a drip about to fall just right of the bolt w/yellow on it?...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Dean. Yeah, I noticed that after I looked at the pic. To me, it looks like someone sprayed oil all over the rear differential area. Maybe leaking out of the seals and then getting flung by the axle rotation?
 

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You can replace the axle seals without removing the rear diff.
 

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How many miles do you have on that diff, how hard do your drive, and how long do you expect to keep your '13? I would suggest that you read through Sand-n-Sea's excellent how-to on rebuilding the diff and get a current price on the All Balls rebuild kit. It might be time for a pre-emptive rebuild.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
How many miles do you have on that diff, how hard do your drive, and how long do you expect to keep your '13? I would suggest that you read through Sand-n-Sea's excellent how-to on rebuilding the diff and get a current price on the All Balls rebuild kit. It might be time for a pre-emptive rebuild.
Hello once again mbrandt. It's got a little over 3k miles, but only maybe 100 since I've owned it, and most of those were pretty hard. I've heard about issues with the diff on these, and have talked with some friends about doing a maintenance rebuild instead of a repair. Thanks for that tip, and I'm going to see if I can find Sand-n-Sea's article. Thanks also for the direct answer SNS!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello once again mbrandt. It's got a little over 3k miles, but only maybe 100 since I've owned it, and most of those were pretty hard. I've heard about issues with the diff on these, and have talked with some friends about doing a maintenance rebuild instead of a repair. Thanks for that tip, and I'm going to see if I can find Sand-n-Sea's article. Thanks also for the direct answer SNS!
After I read Sand-n-Sea's response today, I went to CountryCat and bought the seals a circlip and o-ring that looks like they go on the axle at the differential end and an o-ring for the fill plug. This cost about $50 with shipping. Then I read the post from mbrandt about a pre-emptive rebuild, and went to All Balls and they sell a bearing and seal kit for about $50. However, it's not in stock right now. All the same, I'm thinking a lot of the work is just getting the suspension parts disconnected and so I'm leaning towards getting the bearings, pulling the diff and doing the rebuild. I'll check when they plan to have the kits back in stock and maybe just make sure to top it off if I go out for any short rides until then.
 

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There are a lot of the ALL BALLS rear diff rebuild kits that are rebranded and sold under different names/part numbers.. You can find all that info on the All Balls site
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again SnS. I found your thread on doing the rebuild (thanks for that as well). I got the SKF numbers from that and asked a vendor at work to get them for me. Of course I paid about the same for seals that All Balls gets for the seals and bearings. Too bad there's not a fix for the needle bearing because I hear it's often the source of trouble. I wonder whether turning down the pinion shaft (you did out of necessity) and going with a beefier bearing might be the way to go.
There are a lot of the ALL BALLS rear diff rebuild kits that are rebranded and sold under different names/part numbers.. You can find all that info on the All Balls site
There are a lot of the ALL BALLS rear diff rebuild kits that are rebranded and sold under different names/part numbers.. You can find all that info on the All Balls site
Tip my hat to mbrandt for directing me to your article on rebuilding the differential. And I really appreciate that you took time to document and share the procedure SnS! I ordered SKF 6007, 6008 (x 2) and 16008 from Simply Bearings today. They're in the UK, and I paid about $74 for all four bearings and shipping. I also ordered the OEM needle bearing, that front seal (input shaft seal), and the gasket for the pinion housing from Country Cat. All in, it looks like I'm at about $140 or so. One of my roles at work is responsibility for a machine shop, and I have a badass machinist in there - I'm sure he has the tools/fixtures to check backlash...I'm thinking about having him do that part for me and maybe pressing the bearings out/in as well (I was thinking I'd have to use a C-Clamp and PVC fittings similar to what you did). My boss accused me of finding things to work on and that's really the reason I bought this UTV. :eek:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have the radius rods disconnected/removed and both knuckles separated from the axle, and the right side axle is out. The left side is refusing to budge. I suspended the axle with a tie-down so it's perpendicular to the diff. I then used a large screwdriver to pry against the case while I was pushing the axle towards the diff. Then tried to wedge two screwdrivers between the case and the axle cup and then took a punch through the diff and struck the end of the axle. Early on, I may have pulled on the axle and it felt like it moved, but not out of the case - maybe inside the inboard axle cup? I've tried pushing the axle back in, but it doesn't move. When I push or pull on the axle, the cup moves with it with no play at all. The right side came out with only light persuasion. Any hints on what to try next?
 

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I see the white inboard axle cup so I assume they are stock axles. The release pin on the stock axles require you to PUSH INWARDS with the axle shaft while you grasp the cup and pull it (or pry it) out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I see the white inboard axle cup so I assume they are stock axles. The release pin on the stock axles require you to PUSH INWARDS with the axle shaft while you grasp the cup and pull it (or pry it) out.
Thanks again SnS. I've been trying to push the axle in and pull the cup out. It seems to me there was a little play in the cup or in the CV joint on the right side. On the left side, as soon as I push or pull the axle, the cup moves with it. should there be any play in there?
 

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There will be some play in the cv joint. Pushing the axle in depresses a release that allows the axle circlip to contract.
Hold the axle shaft horizontal to the diff and push it in; don't push with the axle at an angle. Use a large screwdriver or small crow bar to gently pry the cup away from the diff at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After trying that, I went back to using a punch through the diff and got it out. There is definitely no play in the CV joint on this left side. Now that I have them both out, I can see that the right axle has about 2 inches of axial movement and the left side has none. I damaged the inboard side of that left one where it's splined to go into the diff. The splines aren't damaged but that hole in the center is. I'll upload a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
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Left Axle.jpg You can see the right one is flattened around that hole. It also won't move axially like the right one does.
Left Axle.jpg
Right Axle.jpg
Left Axle.jpg
Right Axle.jpg
Right Axle.jpg Left Axle.jpg Right Axle.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've got all the bolts out of the mounts, but it seems the boots on the input shaft are holding the diff in place. Do I need to remove those clamps that hold the boots? If so, is there a special tool for that?
 

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If you are pulling the diff, remove the clamp holding the boot. I think you can just pull the diff without removing the clamp... it should just pull off. But removing the clamp is easier. You can remove the clamp with dikes (diag cutting plyers) or twist it with a needlenose
 

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Those clamps are "Oetike" style. I use metal banding clamps as replacements
 
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