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Thanks for taking time to read through this. We purchased a WC4 in April. We live in Central Florida. We do mostly gravel/sand trail riding. Not the suck you tire spinning sand but the cruise along with no effort at 20 to 30 mph sand. Also a little mud but again not mud up to the floor boards need to be winched out mud. We usually have our daughters with us so its more leisure riding. We had about 70 hrs and 372 miles on our Cat when we first experienced severe bucking. Though it was something in the clutch so we loaded it up and took it to our local Cat dealer. They have ONLY EVER had our WC4 in stock. They have only sold ours. Ours was the first they have ever worked on. They have sold a ton of the two seaters. They also thought it was something in the clutch. After 3 weeks and a "complete tear down" (their words) they found nothing wrong except a worn belt. $420 repair bill. Over the next 5 weeks we went a total of 23 miles before the severe jerking returned. We broke it in as they asked driving at around half throttle for short periods of time and allowing time for it to cool down. We were upset and took it back to them. A MONTH later and again they say nothing but a bad belt. And they are claiming it was how it was broken in. Again it is fixed. Now Arctic Cat AND our dealer are saying the WC4 is designed to be driven mostly in LOW and only OCCASIONALLY in high. Their words were "High is considered overdrive". So they are claiming my big bad Cat is suppose to be driven around at 10 to 15 mph all the time. Sounds funny to us. Does anyone have any experience with problems like this? I really don't want to be changing belts every 30 miles. Any suggestions would be great......
 

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First if it took 3 weeks for them to figure out you had a bad belt find a new dealer. Lots of people drive in high. I mainly drive in low because I only go about 30mph and I like the engine brake in low
 

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Tell that dealer to take a hike. These machines are build to haul ass. I would suggest re clutching the car. This I never drive my WC4 in low anymore since the new clutching has taken place
 

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New dealer they sound clueless
 

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Did U get a kiss with each bill? Tell your dealer to stick with boats and watercraft, they dont have belt drive!
 

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Thanks for taking time to read through this. We purchased a WC4 in April. We live in Central Florida. We do mostly gravel/sand trail riding. Not the suck you tire spinning sand but the cruise along with no effort at 20 to 30 mph sand. Also a little mud but again not mud up to the floor boards need to be winched out mud. We usually have our daughters with us so its more leisure riding. We had about 70 hrs and 372 miles on our Cat when we first experienced severe bucking. Though it was something in the clutch so we loaded it up and took it to our local Cat dealer. They have ONLY EVER had our WC4 in stock. They have only sold ours. Ours was the first they have ever worked on. They have sold a ton of the two seaters. They also thought it was something in the clutch. After 3 weeks and a "complete tear down" (their words) they found nothing wrong except a worn belt. $420 repair bill. Over the next 5 weeks we went a total of 23 miles before the severe jerking returned. We broke it in as they asked driving at around half throttle for short periods of time and allowing time for it to cool down. We were upset and took it back to them. A MONTH later and again they say nothing but a bad belt. And they are claiming it was how it was broken in. Again it is fixed. Now Arctic Cat AND our dealer are saying the WC4 is designed to be driven mostly in LOW and only OCCASIONALLY in high. Their words were "High is considered overdrive". So they are claiming my big bad Cat is suppose to be driven around at 10 to 15 mph all the time. Sounds funny to us. Does anyone have any experience with problems like this? I really don't want to be changing belts every 30 miles. Any suggestions would be great......[/QUOTE It sounds like you are flat spotting or hour glassing the belt. This can happen very easily with the style of clutch you have. This problem usually occurs when you attempt to ease up on something like a log or rock or even a sharp, although small up hill. This is where low will help with that situation. What happens is the primary sheave begins to clamp down on the belt in an attepmt to move it forward but the vehicle does not move. The sheave instantly starts to wear a flat spot or hour glass shape into the belt, when this happens the vehicle will shake and shutter on take off.
 

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Have you been starting the wildcat in Park?

Dont put the wildcat in park unless its turned off and dont rev the wildcat when in park cause that will ruin your belt fast. I think this is how a lot of people blow belts up and blame the wildcat. It says it in the manual.

Also your driving very slow so you should prob be in low a lot. Your averaging like 5mph overall so if you havent been using low somethings wrong.

I average like 25mph overall and I use low 1/2 time prob.
 

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I would suggest a serious conversation with Arctic Cat
 

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Have you been starting the wildcat in Park?

Dont put the wildcat in park unless its turned off and dont rev the wildcat when in park cause that will ruin your belt fast. I think this is how a lot of people blow belts up and blame the wildcat. It says it in the manual.

Also your driving very slow so you should prob be in low a lot. Your averaging like 5mph overall so if you havent been using low somethings wrong.

I average like 25mph overall and I use low 1/2 time prob.
I better go back and read the manual, LOL. I always start my Cat in park, didn't know it was a bad thing.
 

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Wish I would have read these forums , or the owners manual! I didn't break my belt in, started and revved mine in park several times. My cat has less than 6 hrs on it and I get to install a new belt tonight! I think the dealers should inform the customer about these things, who really reads the book or the warning stickers on the machine ? :)
 

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LOL I read the book while on the can.

But yea if you have the cat in park the primary is still spinning and the secondary is not. So the belt is burning up in there.

Always put it in neutral when stopped or you feel like revving.

I agree dealers should telling people this. Also there should be a buzzer and red light on the dash when started and in park.
 

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yeah I read mine in the same location after I already had done all the stuff it said not to! Yes it did say that by the shifter! Ive always learned the hard way, no since in changing now!
 

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Yeah somtimes the person going over them with the cust is clueless. When I got my first one the guy said the diff lock was for the rear diff not the front. I didn't believe him for a second
 

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with the team clutch you just can't rev it up or take it off idle, I have watched mine in neutral and park with the cover off and even in neutral the secondary and belt doesn't turn. so in theory there is no difference until you rev it up, and the primary starts to clamp on the belt.
 

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yeah I just happen to look down last night before I started my cat and saw a sticker that said starting instructions....lol Only my second night owning the cat
 

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Not gonna lie. I've even gone to the dealer and revd a few wildcats in park before I purchased. I prob broke some of your wildcats before u guys got them.

These things sound awesome. Everyone's first instinct is to rev them in park
 
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