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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm wondering what people believe would be the best way to "break in" a new WildCat? What did AC recommend for the Prowler's? I have heard for years that you break in a engine the way you intend to drive it. Others say keep it under X amount of RPM's for X amount of hours then gradually increase...I would find that excruciatingly hard to do!!! An oil/fluids change after initial break in would obviously be at the top of my list...but how hard or easy would you take it with a new WildCat.

I ask just in case I get a call tomorrow saying I can pick it up!!! :D:D
 

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Break in to me means taking it easy unloading it off the trailer for the first ride. Break it in like you are going to normally ride.
 

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Ride it like you normal and get it nice and warm on the very first run then the first time you take a brake let it totaly cool out before starting again
 

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I have never pampered new engines in any type of vehicle. Use common sense, avoid "buzzing" the engine at redline for long periods. No need to worry about lugging it with the CVT, so don't sweat it, just ride!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Thanks for posting the link WildOffroad!

I tell you people I know who have done this method have been very happy with it.
 

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I say just heat cycle it once then go drive reasonable for a tank of fuel then go nuts starting the second tank. Really you just care that the rings seat, and I'm guessing the engine might get a test run before the leaving the factory?????? If that's the case, then the rings are seated by the time you get it.
 

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I've broken in damn near a hundred race engines in my time (and built about as many or more). I have always subscribed to the 'drive it like you stole it' method and get the rings seated (about 20 minute cycle). Let the cylinder cool to the point just where its tolerable to hold for a few seconds and then do it again. After the first hour of use, replace the oil & filter to get rid of the aluminum contaminants & break-in grease and fill with a good quality oil. I am not a die-hard syn user, although I do prefer it for longevity on motors I expect will be abused for long periods before oil changes. Other than that, a respectable bean oil will do - not detergent heavy. The key consideration is always let the engine heat up before ripping the throttle. The load on a cold engine can cold-sieze the intake side of the piston - although I'm not really certain how the intake manifold is setup on these engines. Just a good practice. In the end, these are computer controlled engines so it's not like you can adjust the mixture to run rich for a break-in session. The CPU/EFI & rev limiter will keep you out of trouble. I have never owned a sled or high HP SXS before, so I am not familiar with the break-in for the clutch/belt if there is such a thing.
 

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i Find The Bigest Mud Hole & Go Like He!! :D
 

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Naahh, you let the kids take it out for the first day or two!!!
There is no one on the Earth that can BREAK/ I mean break in a dads toy like a couple of his own kids!!!!
Then when u take it in, for the break in fluid changes, you let the dealer tell u what all needs a fixin!!!
 

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I do what Motorman described in his article other than non synthetic oil after the intial break in. I will be on yet another buggy by the time I put 1,500 miles on it. Not so easy torack up the miles on the technical terrain vs some of the open areas out west.
 

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Damn, thanks for the link, I'm sold, makes sense enough for me. Ive always broken in easy after so many years of smoking Banshee engines. I'll be going this route from now on on my 4 strokes.
 

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Excellent post....that's how I have always done any engine break in.
 

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i have had the pleasure of breaking in many new engines and the drive like you stole it approach has always worked for me....seems to be a consensus here........:cool:
 

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Used this method for many years and always has worked very well for me.
Same here. This was posted up on a Harley site a long time ago. I have been breaking in engines this way ever since I read it. My Harely, a mild build from a 88" TC, to a 95" was broke in this way and runs stronger than my bro-in-law's 107" build. He broke his in per HD recommendations for a new engine...even after reading Motomans artical. Wishes he would have listened to me now...lol. Just pisses him off to no end my lil 95 incher will run his 107 down.
 

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I have never seen this method but anytime I get a new any sort of vehicle the very first thing I always do is see how fast it will go. Everything I have owned seems to run very well, so I guess I was lucking into this method LOL!
 
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