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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to install a cab heater in my Sport this weekend.
I am tempted to order this one to be overnight shipped as I think I can make it fit under dash.
Speedway Universal Fit Street Rod Heater, 12 Volt, 20,000 BTU - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

My concern is how to tie into the radiator hoses, have heat, and not adversely affect coolant system operation.

A diagram, photos, or a post describing how it was installed from someone with a heater installed already and working without problems would be greatly appreciated. I've read a number of posts that appear to be a couple years old or more, and not specific to sports but raised more interest but concerns as well.

I have also seen kits to help with installation, and some state their kit is required for any UTV installation such as this one.
Products - Aqua-Hot Hydronic Heating

Some sites have special thermostat housing replacements with special heater house connections for other manufacturers side by sides but nothing for Arctic Cat, let alone Wildcat Sport specific.

I want to install a heater correctly but not do it by spending an excessive amount if I can get by with less than $30 worth of automotive parts I
can buy at the local auto parts store either.

Folks I am well aware of the heat the sport produces in summer, and even posted i thought it would be great in winter. Trust me, it is not enough to keep my feet warm below 40 with wind driven rain and mixed snow coming down in these Colorado mountains.
 
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Ive seen it done on the Trail so it will work on the Sport too. Biggest issue with the heater on either model is getting the system purged of air afterwards. UTV specific kits are way overpriced and your on the right track with the hot rod kit. Ive been looking at it myself and the hardest part to get from what i see is the proper T fitting to split the coolant line. For our rigs the best bet is to splice into the coolant line near the radiator, havent seen it done any other way. Ideally id like a splitter block that i can isolate in the summer months but havent got that far with it yet. Im thinking with the block i can have coolant flowing through the heater core in one position and in the second position it would be bypassed and follow its normal route. If i do proceed with it im going to ditch my front storage bin and place the heater unit under the hood rather than under the dash. I just dont like the idea of having hot coolant plumbed inside the cab just incase something ever let go. In the meantime i have seat heater kits on order that im going to try out. If those can keep me warm enough to be half way comfortable then i wont bother with a cab heater. Whatever you do, dont get the small electric unit they sell, it wont heat worth a damn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Planning heater connection diagram

Text Font Paper
Ordered my heater today and should arrive tomorrow on big brown truck. I've worked up a diagram of what I have planned for the connections to install. Took a photo of the diagram and now hope I can figure out how to attach it. More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
revised diagram

Text Paper Design Document Paper product

Sorry about previous diagram.
This is revised to show the return line Y fitting in correct direction.
 

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I dont think you need V1 at all since this rig produces enough heat that you wont need to feather the valve in the winter. Id move V1 to return line after the heater so you can fully isolate the heater during the summer months as a precaution. If you are concerned it wont produce enough heat you can always make a bypass on the supply line and install the heater fully inline with the supply to the rad, return line then wouldnt need to be tapped (less points of possible failure). Its another option but i dont think you will need to run that way. Im pretty confident that it will pump out plenty of heat by just tapping off of the supply and return lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Having grown up on coast of Maine, I can understand why you are looking for heat there in Nova Scotia! Trust me it is about the same here in Colorado. Just not as damp, but more than I mile above sea level wherever I ride.
I design heating systems for buildings is why I figured I could tackle this one.
I wasn't to sure about V-1, but figured if I was going to work on it, might as well add it now, and if not needed could always leave valve full open.
By the way the hot rod heater comes with 2 Y fittings. Might need a reducer coupling if sizes don't match. Still waiting for delivery truck. The one valve should be enough to isolate heater because water can't flow without valve V-2 open. I don't think there would even be much heat transfer from return line with water not flowing. Will comment more once I have the heater in hand.
 

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Only reason i dont like V1 is just the possibility of failure or getting clogged up since its on your main line that wouldnt be good. I also mention the second isolation valve no due to heat but just incase your heater core leaked and you needed to isolate it. The hoses on this rig are an odd size so i dont think the y's in the kit will work but you may get lucky. They seemed to be the hardest part to source out when i was looking. Not a hard thing to rig up but my biggest concern is hot coolant in the cab should something let go. My rig gets beat around pretty good and i wouldnt want to scald someones legs because i cut corners. For that very reason i think im going to mount mine under the hood and put vents in the firewall for the heat. At least if i blow a hose it will spray outside the cab and no one gets burnt. I dont mind the cold here but its the damness that gets you, cuts right to the bones. After i added the full windshield last year i didnt find the cold too bad, much better than riding my quad. I think my seat heaters will help a ton. I figure if my back and behind are warm that will trick the rest of my body into thinking its warm too, time will tell i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the heater project has taken a setback. DRock, after giving your comments more thought, I decided to go with your suggestion and put 2 isolation valves in the 5/8" heater hoses, and delete V-1. I spent most of the day trying to gather all the fittings and hoses. What a challenge. I have been unable to find any 1" heater hose barbed tees with 5/8" branch. Best I could do was purchase for eachsupply and return, a 1" straight tee, 1" x 3/4" reducer, then 3/4" x 5/8" reducer. Once you add sections of hose to connect this all together it is going to be too long to work. Will require a lot of planning how to make it all fit under the hood. I'm trying to keep the heater connection in cab to only the hose and no fittings. Thought about a couple 90's to get around some tight spots under hood, but that just adds to the length problem unless I do some weird multiple turns back and forth while reducing sizes. I'm also thinking about bronze 1" barbed to 3/4 MIP, then 3/4 FIP to 5/8" barbed if I can find them as that would be much shorter. I Need the weekend to pack and prepare for trip elk hunting next Thursday for a week so going to put this off for now while I also think of some other hose routing options.
 

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Everything for me is on hold for hunting too. Thats the same issue i ran across when looking up parts, proper sized fittings were hard to find if you want to keep it clean and tidy.
 

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Ive seen it done on the Trail so it will work on the Sport too. Biggest issue with the heater on either model is getting the system purged of air afterwards. UTV specific kits are way overpriced and your on the right track with the hot rod kit. Ive been looking at it myself and the hardest part to get from what i see is the proper T fitting to split the coolant line. For our rigs the best bet is to splice into the coolant line near the radiator, havent seen it done any other way. Ideally id like a splitter block that i can isolate in the summer months but havent got that far with it yet. Im thinking with the block i can have coolant flowing through the heater core in one position and in the second position it would be bypassed and follow its normal route. If i do proceed with it im going to ditch my front storage bin and place the heater unit under the hood rather than under the dash. I just dont like the idea of having hot coolant plumbed inside the cab just incase something ever let go. In the meantime i have seat heater kits on order that im going to try out. If those can keep me warm enough to be half way comfortable then i wont bother with a cab heater. Whatever you do, dont get the small electric unit they sell, it wont heat worth a damn.
Hey DRock, looking for info on putting a heater in the trail. You know someone who has it done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wildcat15, I'm still where I was last fall and no further work on the heater. My kitty is covered for the winter but would be nice to have that heat for spring rides. I still need to find much shorter fittings or have a pipefitter friend make me a special reducing tee fitting, or get back to searching the brass or bronze fittings. If I wasn't so cheap, I'd already have heat, but can't being myself to pay for the ready made kit. I'll try to get back on the search this week.
 

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I know what you mean about the cost. I was looking at the kits on summit racing but also don't know where to get the tees and fittings that are needed. Also heard bleeding the coolant system can be a pain.
 

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Having grown up on coast of Maine, I can understand why you are looking for heat there in Nova Scotia! Trust me it is about the same here in Colorado. Just not as damp, but more than I mile above sea level wherever I ride.
I design heating systems for buildings is why I figured I could tackle this one.
I wasn't to sure about V-1, but figured if I was going to work on it, might as well add it now, and if not needed could always leave valve full open.
By the way the hot rod heater comes with 2 Y fittings. Might need a reducer coupling if sizes don't match. Still waiting for delivery truck. The one valve should be enough to isolate heater because water can't flow without valve V-2 open. I don't think there would even be much heat transfer from return line with water not flowing. Will comment more once I have the heater in hand.

Hello fellow Mainah!!
 

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If I was going to do a heater. I would want it to be removable. Does the 12 volt plug have enough power to support a heater with a 12 volt adapter?
 

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If I was going to do a heater. I would want it to be removable. Does the 12 volt plug have enough power to support a heater with a 12 volt adapter?
No, and not even worth trying one of those cheap heaters.
 

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Hey DRock, looking for info on putting a heater in the trail. You know someone who has it done?
I believe Willys54 from Quebec did one. I still havent bothered. Seems our only option is t-ing off the rad hoses. I did find some proper size y-fittings but they were pricey. Ill have to dig around again and see where that was.
 

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Wildcat15, I'm still where I was last fall and no further work on the heater. My kitty is covered for the winter but would be nice to have that heat for spring rides. I still need to find much shorter fittings or have a pipefitter friend make me a special reducing tee fitting, or get back to searching the brass or bronze fittings. If I wasn't so cheap, I'd already have heat, but can't being myself to pay for the ready made kit. I'll try to get back on the search this week.
Check out motoaliance under replacement parts for firestorm heater kits. 1" y fitting with 5/8" branch

https://motoalliance.com/Site.Store.go?action=gotoProductDetails&id=732
 

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Thanks guys. Those fittings are perfect. Going to cost a pile to get them here though. Guess that's the price you pay to be warm haha.
 
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