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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently went for a drive and motor quit. Wouldn't start so I towed it home.

Was displaying PO336, PO339. Pulled the stator and CPS. Replaced with RMStator kit.

Aftermarket stator plug does not fit factory Wildcat plug.

Machine turns over but will not start. No codes displayed since installing new Stator/CPS. New battery today.

Wire Auto part Cable Technology Electronic device
Please forgive me if this has been covered but I have searched extensively. Thank you from up North.
 

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Go back to the basics (spark, fuel, air). Since the crank position sensor was also changed, I would start by making sure the plugs are clean and firing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no spark from bad stator hookup

Plugs are not firing because stator wiring is incorrect. I need to figure out the pin out for the new stator so I can wire it up to the factory plug.

Go back to the basics (spark, fuel, air). Since the crank position sensor was also changed, I would start by making sure the plugs are clean and firing.
 

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On the old stator can you see where the wires go to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can't determine how the wires on the old stator route from the windings to the plug. They are all black. Does anyone know how to determine the pin out of a stator using a multi meter?
 

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Plugs are not firing because stator wiring is incorrect. I need to figure out the pin out for the new stator so I can wire it up to the factory plug.
The stator just supplies voltage to the electrical system, it has no direct role in anything that runs the engine if the battery has a decent charge. I know for a fact that the engine will start and run with the stator wires completely disconnected, so a quick test to see if the stator is the root of your problem would be to simply pull the plug.

I also have a vague recollection that the three stator wires are interchangeable. Arctic Cat is very thorough in using different colored wires throughout the wiring harness, but the three stator wires are black. Also, the stator "icon" in the wiring diagram suggests that each wire simply carries electricity from 1/3rd of the stator windings to the regulator/rectifier. Also, the factory service manual (free download from countrycat.com) says the readings for each of the three circuits should be the same. I think any of the wires can be connected to any of the three pins on the regulator/rectifier, but prior to seeing what the FSM says about testing the stator, my confidence level in this was only about 30%. Now I'm fairly certain you are barking up the wrong tree if you think the stator is preventing the ignition from firing. Honestly, the easiest thing you could do is pull the stator plug and rely on a fully charged battery while you troubleshoot this. Then when the engine is running, go back to the stator wiring.

I'm still highly suspicious of the crank position sensor and/or cps wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you very much
you are very helpful.

I will try replacing the plugs tomorrow and see if it will start. I can smell fuel is getting in when I crank it. Brand new starter and battery, so hopefully I get her going soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Replaced the spark plugs and caps today. Can't notice any difference when cranking.

I left the stator unplugged as mbrandt1402 suggested. Does the CPS need to be working for the engine to start? I tried with it connected and disconnected but it didn't seem to make a difference.

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Does the CPS need to be working for the engine to start?

Thank you
Yes Sir. The crankshaft position sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you very much for the info. I just tried reversing the wires on the CPS and checking all the fuses for continuity.

Just cranks but won't start. Tach doesn't show any movement when cranking.

Yes Sir. The crankshaft position sensor signal is used to determine ignition timing
 

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The tach is probably driven by one of the ignition coils, or by the trigger signal the ECM sends to the coil, so that is a very useful detail. My needle moves as soon as the starter starts running. Of course if the gauge is set to display MPH with the analog gauge and RPM on the digital read-out, the needle won't move. I didn't switch my gauge to see if the digital display shows RPM when the starter motor runs, but I think it would.

Crank position sensors are sensitive to the gap between the triggers on the flywheel and the sensor. That said, IIRC there is no adjustment to the CPS sensor position, it just attaches to the stator cover. If your old CPS is intact, I would compare the mounting bracket to the new one to see if they are positioned the same, or just re-install the old one. If you have some doubt, I have the stator cover off of my spare engine and could snap a pic of the CPS placement.

Wiring: For the OEM CPS, brown CPS wire goes to brown/green harness wire (+), white goes to green/white (-). Arctic Cat labels the connections at the ECM with + & -, which usually means polarity is significant. I have no idea if you could damage the sensor (or ECM) by reversing the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would quite appreciate that photo sir. I am concerned that the clamp which holds down the stator wires under the CPS has been bent before, that could certainly cause the gap to be out of spec. I have 3 new CPS on hand, all different models. I will compare and see which one is closest to the factory in terms of positioning.

Thank you very much
 

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Auto part Engine Fuel line

I just received this cover assembly from a guy parting out an older engine - possibly a 2012. I'm fairly certain that my cover assembly has a small wire-guide bracket that this one does not have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you very much for taking the time to photograph that.

I went ahead and ordered a new wire hold down bracket since mine looked pretty bent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I received a new wire hold down bracket. I tried installing it along with a different CPS. The tachometer is jumping when I crank the motor but it won't start.

New plugs, caps, battery, starter, air filter etc. I used dielectric grease on the caps and plugs.
 

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This is hardly more than a "hail Mary", but you have had to handle the plug wires a few times during all of this, and I'm wondering if the wires are breaking down.

The wire portion screws into the coil and spark plug connector. The wires are long enough that you can snip off the last ~3/8" and reassemble. That way there will be fresh copper to connect with the terminal screws.

I think I recall that the coils can be damaged if you crank the engine too long with the spark plug wires disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you for the idea, I will give that a try. Can you confirm the wire hold down bracket location? Does it bolt underneath the CPS sharing the same screws? I believe this is the case, but the bracket bends when I install it in this fashion.
 

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Early Wildcats don't use the wire guide (see the pic that I posted). There are positions for 2 additional screws on stator covers that do use the guide, and the guide and CPS do not share screws.

Adding the guide would almost certainly affect the alignment of the CPS to the trigger magnets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't think you could be more helpful, I really appreciate all the time you've spent on this thread!

I actually tried running without the bracket installed and was still having the same issues.

The 3rd party stator manufacturer agreed to take their stator back. I am starting from scratch with a new OEM stator and CPS.

I will be sure to post my results.
 
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