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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been puting this job off, for like years! LOL. After researching the project, I wanted to put all the information I have gathered into one nice post. I tried to make a guide that is easier to follow then just the user manual alone. I'm a visual learner, so I color coded steps :). I just hope it helps someone out there tackle this daunting job.
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Welcome Drbryanwalters, great first post and write up!!! I made it a Sticky.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
AMENDMENT: I just tried it and technically you dont actually have to remove the left front shock or the upper A-arm. The point of removing those parts is to allow you to remove the long bolts that connect the front differential to the frame. Instead of all out removing the upper A-arm and shock, what I found is you just remove the nut on the upper A-arm bolt connecting the upper A-arm to the frame. The upper A-arm bolt wont be able to come out completely due to hitting the upper control arm/boot (steering arm) but thats ok... So what I did is after the nut is off, just slide the upper A-arm bolt as far as I could until it hit the control arm/boot (toward the back of the vehicle). This allowed the front half of the upper A-arm connection to the frame to be moved ever so slightly up. This allowed the differential bolt clearence to slide out.
:)
So much better then removing the A-arm completely in my opinion.
 

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after reading all the instructions posted i'm so glad people like me, if there are any, are glad they have a great dealer service department...great job of listing everything with the pics...welcome to the forum...
 

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Thank you for taking the time to write this up. You did an excellent job of making it easy to follow and it will no doubt help a lot of people tackle this job themselves.
 

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Thanks for posting this I downloaded the file for when I get to have fun doing this job. Has anyone converted this bearing to a greasable pillow block setup. There is a company selling a setup with a new mounting bracket. Was thinking of making my own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
So update on the job, the bearing I bought is after market bearing, its beefier, and I am hoping that it will last longer then OEM... but I ran into a problem with it. The bearing is much bigger and when on the front drive shaft it doesnt let the snap ring get to its groove (see video). But it looks like its made so the set screws sit inside the snapring groove. I will just use it without the snap ring. Also since the cage around the bearing will be bolted to the frame it should be fine.. I will be doing the little optional mod with bicycle inner tube put around the bearing. It will make a little sound and vibration dampeneing layer of rubber between the bearing and the cage. Hope between the set screws, rubber, and cage the lack of snap ring will be fine. I will obviously keep you posted if anything fails during my abusive rides :)


 

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Drbryanwalters, I need to give you a THANK YOU for this thread! I printed off a hard copy of your instructions to take to the shop before taking my carrier bearing out this past weekend. It made the job super easy! I followed it step by step and had it out in no time. Well done!
 
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