I used the smaller filter for my first change since it came with the kit. No problems.I like the K&N, it’s the KN 204. It’s just easier to change being it has that 17mm nut on the end for easy removal. I bought an oil change kit from the dealer when I bought my 18 XX, it came with the smaller oil filter, not sure I’ll use it. It’s probrably fine, just concerning it has such a small filtering surface area. The K&N is under 13 bucks and for piece of mind I’ll likely use it on my next oil change.
Thoughts on on the smaller oil filter???
some will tell you to change it now, some wont..my early 18 had that gunk in the filter, my 18 ltd did not..for piece of mind, I would go for a short drive and change the filter..Our new XX only has 3 miles on it. Is that enough to have collected the assembly lube, or should I wait just a bit longer?
I certainly would check it just to be safe. A $10 filter change is worth the piece of mind to me. Good time to buy a 4 pack of HiFlo filters.Our new XX only has 3 miles on it. Is that enough to have collected the assembly lube, or should I wait just a bit longer?
How far should you actually drive this? Should you just get it warmed up good and run around at part throttle to break it in then dump the filter? After seeing those pics, I'd worry about any high rpm fun...The XX is delivered with the original filter and Yamaha is using way too much assembly lube.
The original filter clogs with assembly lube almost immediately.
I cut mine open after the first ride and it looked like this....
View attachment 241713
This is the thread that inspired me to cut it open right away. Others have cut them open with the same results.
Anyone cut open the factory filter? Here is what I found...
If you baby the XX during the entire break-in period you probably won't have a problem but if you get antsy and start running it hard you are going to run out of oil.
Either way, get that original filter off there right away. It is cheap insurance to swap out a $10 filter. You don't even need to drain the oil, just swap the filter and do the rest of the break-in with full oil pressure and peace of mind.
My second oil change was totally clean and the filter was normal.
Hollywood, make this a STICKY
I would do your break in on the belt, (25 miles) and change the filter. Better safe then sorry. 10 bucks won’t break you but it could save your machine from being broke. Then dump all the fluids at 100 miles.I just bought a Tracker XTR 1000 a week ago. (10/2020) Production date is 05/19. Has anyone found clogged filters on the later production motors? Im wondering if they figured it out and corrected the issue on the line.
Currently has 3 miles and .6 hrs. Bass Pro gave me a filter when I picked up the machine since i asked them about the concern. Agree, better to change it. Thank you for the input.I would do your break in on the belt, (25 miles) and change the filter. Better safe then sorry. 10 bucks won’t break you but it could save your machine from being broke. Then dump all the fluids at 100 miles.
Not the best picture but on the bottom of the sump tank, there is a fitting with return hose and that has the screen you're referring to. Same as the Yamaha YXZI have seen other posts related to this issue that indicate there is a screen in the dry sump tank that can get clogged and should be cleaned. After looking at exploded views from part sites along with the service manuals for the XX I have not been able to identify this screen.
Does anyone know if this screen is internal to the sump tank and the best method to check/clean it?
Thanks.