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I recently purchased a wildcat trail 700 with 1000ish milea on it, everything is in decent shape, but it has the typical sticking clutch that will not allow me to shift between gears when it is warm.
I did a fair amount of research and found a few solutions.
Most people had them serviced under warranty and ended up with a new primary clutch installed to fix it. Some took apart the clutch cleaned the fingers and cleaned a sticking 2 way bearing to fixed it.
And yet others say a clutch kit will fix it saying the stock primary spring weakens over time leading to it not being able to push the clutch apart when heated.

Mine had some belt dust, but not a ton, everything seemed to be ok and moved freely.
Also my bearing seems to be free spinning.

I understand the tolerances may have been to tight and also he fact that you cannot lube any of the parts causing the problems.
But has anyone actually determined what changed on the new installed clutches vs the clutches that were sticking?

I am a machinist/fabricator/mechanic, but I have no idea what arcric cat changed or if the newer replacement clutches even have a differant part number from the ones that were prone to sticking.

One guy I saw filed the area where the pins on the fingers slide to fix his.

Can anyone answer these questions?
Mine is a 2014 BTW.
 

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Everybody has some ideas on this subject and you probably won't get a straight answer from anybody. But here's my idea. I believe the sticking on the early clutches was caused by mis machining of the center shaft or the bushing on the primary clutch , get it hot and it sticks you could here it "click" loose when it released. Now add some belt dust and it gets even worse. Let them sit outside at the dealer and drive back and forth 20' to put them away every night with the clutch moving very little and the problem compiles.

These types of clutches on all machines(snowmobiles, utvs,etc) are prone to sticking if not kept clean.

as for the "FIX" it varies like you already know. Soak the clutch in a good bubble bath then blow it out reassemble and try it. If that doesn't work try cleaning up some of the metal with some emery cloth like some have done. You can try a primary spring also. And if all else fails you will probably have to get a clutch.

the clutches have the same part number I believe it was a quality control issue that slipped a bunch of these into machines.

most brands have had issues with clutchs at some time. Be patient and methodical with your diagnosising and your fixes and you'll have it figured out in no time.
 
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You have to take the clutch off and grind it until you can pick it up then have it drop by itself without sticking... Hard to see if you grinded enough with the clutch on unless you evenly grind away then just put in neutral... rev gas... should only engage when gas is applied. If its still spinning when you let go off gas in neutral you need to sand some more
 

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Did basically the same thing except took the clutch off and sanded by hand with 400 grit little bit at a time as even as i could concentrating on the first quarter inch then polished with 1000 then used the oven to confirm the fix.The first time it would start sticking at 140 confirmed with temp gun, at 170 it was jammed open could not move it from full open till it cooled kept sanding bit by bit till it would be smooth at 220 and my center 2 way bearing spun good the whole time
 

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Where are you guys sanding? My brothers trail had started to stick
 

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You watch the Kevin Sanchez video on Wildcat Riders group on FB?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did not see Kevin's video, I just requested to join that group.
After sanding some my clutch was still sticking, so pulled it apart again, this time wanting to remove the entire assembly to mount on my mill to remove some material.
I ended up bending my homemade clutch puller, than I also broke a puller I purchased, so decided to file on the clutch again by hand without removal.
This time I filed the entire length of where the fingers slide and removed a decent amount.
While I was in there I installed a bikeman spring kit, much stiffer/slightly longer primary spring, which I believe helps.
I took it for a 3hr trail drive, got it nice and hot, and no shifting issues! So glad it is fixed.
I believe when I first hand sanded it the metal surface may not have been sanded completly flat and was hanging up still, so this time after I sanded I used a file to knock down the high spots and flatten it.
 

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I forgot what I sanded it with but now I'm thinking I sanded it too much. If I'm going down a steep grade hill and I have to either keep on the gas lightly or blip the throttle once in a while (every 5-10 seconds?). If I'm coasting the clutch stops spinning then I'm free wheeling it down.
 

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I forgot what I sanded it with but now I'm thinking I sanded it too much. If I'm going down a steep grade hill and I have to either keep on the gas lightly or blip the throttle once in a while (every 5-10 seconds?). If I'm coasting the clutch stops spinning then I'm free wheeling it down.
This free wheeling is normal, rpm's drop below belt engagement =freewheeling . Get a speedwerx secondary spring it helps with this. I use low and 2 feet going down steep grades.
 
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My 2015 has just over 100 miles (wish I could use it more) but NY...I have to travel to a place to ride. My top speed is low gear and crawling around on makeshift trails. My primary clutch is sticking and gets hot(low speeds). I finally read these pages and came to the conclusion the arms the weights are attached to need to be sanded to eliminate the dead spot created by the set rpms I ride at. Im still working on this and may improve the performance by sanding carefully. will see this November when I use it for vacation. Thanks to all for posting what they have learned. JOHN
 

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Hey All. New here. Just purchased my first sxs. A 2017 wildcat trail with 180 miles. It has this same issue that I am now reading tons of threads about. It shifts fine when I first start it then it starts to get stuck. I’ve had to turn it off on the trail and wait awhile before being able to shift and now today the cable broke. I wasn’t even pushing hard on the shifter. Luckily I was able to manually shift where the lever is in the back to make it home.

So 2 things. First I thought this was just an issue with earlier machines. I guess they still hadn’t fixed it by 2017. Which blows my mind that they were selling defective machines for 3 years without even doing a recall.

Second thing, is there a tutorial anywhere on how to properly disassemble and fix the clutch? I have the cover off but from there I’m not sure exactly where to sand or how to tell if the bearing is spinning properly etc.

I’m assuming arctic cat will not stand behind the product and fix the problem even though it has super low miles.
 

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I don't have Facebook but I guess there's a video on there that shows where to sand. Kevin Sanchez . I wish somebody that is computer savey would post it to this thread. It would help some people out.
 

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My 2015 has been sitting due to my clutch sticking and I also broke the shift cable. I would first search the internet using key words pertaining to sticking clutch, removing primary clutch and work from there. I've found the polaris forums about clutch's and youtube videos helpful as well as the arctic cat forums. I think my clutch problem pertains to the spider being misaligned/too tight to the fully assembled clutch. to start you need to remove the secondary, remove the belt, and then partially diassemble the primary( research youtube videos to do this). It takes time but will allow you to at least figure this out yourself. If you remove the primary clutch you will need to buy at least one specialized tool, then alignment has to be checked and on and on. I am by no means proficient at repairing my trail but I want to learn cause I dont want to be stranded out there without my machine. You can just sand the clutch but I dont want to cause more problems. I also dont want to spend $500 on a part that, It seems arctic cat knew about. Id rather spend the money installing power steering or just sell it and start over.
 

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Hello All, I have a 2015 trail that only has 83 miles on it and is on it's second clutch that has only 13 miles on it and is sticking!!!! To say I am very unhappy is an understatement!!! I have a very good dealer that replaced my first clutch for me, my machine was no longer covered under warranty when the first started to stick. He is trying to help me with ideas to make the new clutch work, I understand he can't foot the bill for another. I am going to try and remove material any way i can to make this work. I have sent a email to TEAM IND. to see if I get any response from them. Has anyone else contacted TEAM and if so what did they say? I have bought many many Arctic cat machines over the years and this is the only one i was sorry to have bought!! I would sell it when it is fixed if not for the fact i would loose so much money.
 

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Has anyone else contacted TEAM and if so what did they say?
not TEAM, but teams new aftermarket 'division' Venom...

they said 'weak spring or swollen buttons'

since i didn't want to take the spider off... he-al-lacious torque required along with he-at to break the loctite i have read... i went with the 'removing a thou or two from the towers' and if was def better. read the summary in my thread....


chop cat
 

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Just a little update, I sanded the towers that the buttons slid up and down on. I got the clutch working free. I have not reinstalled it yet to see if it is going to work. I may get it back together this week and will try to run it soon to see if i removed enough. i will post again after i have run it.
 

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Another update!!! Sad to say but I did get my machine back together but as you can guess from the low miles on my trail (83) I don't ride it much. I have not run it yet to see if I was able to fix my sticking problem. I do however plan on running this thing sometime to see if it is working!!! LOL
 
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