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Clutch sticking/ hard to shift

13K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  BodyCop 
#1 ·
Hey Folks..just bought a wildcat trail and at 100kms I noticed I couldn't shift ..not even into neutral. When I let off the brake its was trying to creep ... yes it was hot out ..and engine was warm but heat gauge was middle of the bar...is that my cluthch sticking? Taking it to dealer tomorrow but they said they have never heard of it..but it 2 days of being part of your group I've read the same problem or similar at least 20 times...can you give me some backing info so i don't sound crazy when i talk to the service manager??? Thanks all... and love this site !
 
#2 ·
Always park it and start it in neutral, I have done this since day one and have no issues... Sorry I don't have a remedy for you
 
#3 ·
Used or new? What model year is it? Sounds like the classic primary issue. Can you shift if you turn it off then restart it? Shifts fine when cold? Your dealer must not deal too many units if they have never heard of this problem. And if it is primary you need it heated up to have issue so dealer won't be able to replicate unless they have a ride area next door. Answer some of these questions and people will give you more advise. Mine had rust and shite coming out of the primary when on the bench and flushing with brake clean so that told the story well enough to get replaced by AC... If it is new (age wise) and only 100 kms then you have some push with AC and dealer if they start messin with you. Good luck.
 
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#4 ·
Lots of threads on this matter, just do a little searching on here.
 
#5 ·
It's a 2017...it will only shift after it cools down. Smooth as can be when its cool. .I just dropped it off at dealer...they are talking about the centrifugal weights behind the primary clutch...if he is referring to flyweights then I'm not so sure...they shouldn't have that much hold on a primary clutch should they??..otherwise wouldn't that defeat the purpose of flyweights?..
 
#6 ·
It can be from corrosion, dirt,sand,or any foreign matter that makes its way in there. OR it can be the two halves of the primary sticking after it gets warm. Generally if you shut the machine off and let it cool, listen and you can here them go clunk about 2-5 minutes after it won't shift when warm. That's the two halves coming apart now it will shift fine. The dealer will usually take primary apart and clean then reassemble, then you can try again. If it does it again I would try to get them to replace the primary this usually fixes it.
 
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#8 ·
Well...looks like they are replacing the primary clutch. The mechanic said the shaft bearing scored and scratched all ti heck...says the belt didnt sustain any damage though..so has ordered primary clutch.. flyweights etc etc.. I was expecting a fight as in the past with my 1000 ATV. It was a sh*t show right from the first 5 kms with that thing..
Fingers crossed this solves the issue. I don't want to have to pay another lawyer.
 
#9 ·
Good for you. Surprised they are replacing everything. Mine was a "non calibrated" which needs cover plate, spring and weights swapped over. No biggy, worked proper after that!
 
#10 ·
Had to remove mine and took it apart, was alittle tight on the round wear pucks, dont know why but I polished it a bit till it worked smooth, and installed a clutch kit (weights and springs for primary and secondary. Works good now, I think maybe the return spring was wearing out from the heat maybe (probably same Chineese manufacturer as shock springs that I had to replace).
 
#11 ·
Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton:
Please help me understand,

I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this.

Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM?

It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move.

Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner?

I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM.

Dalton technician reply:

Well, ..you are wrong.
Lol

Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner.

..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights.

The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase)

It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important.

The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that.

The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results)

Thanks
My reply to Dalton:

Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights.

I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it.

If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch:

I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance.

Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use.

So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades.

Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up.

By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended).

Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go!

Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.

252393
 
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