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Hi Everybody,
I have a2018 XX and last week I had a coolant line slip off by the motor. I reinstalled it today and realized there is no radiator cap on radiator. How do I get coolant into the system? Is there a bleeder screw?
Thanks
 

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There is a coolant air bleed by your oil tank. I just went through this when I installed a speed water pump. Remove the plug on the line and fill the coolant resi till you get coolant out of the small air bleed hose. Install the plug And top it off. I ran mine with the cap off of the resi to top it off as the level went down. Let the fan cycle and then ready for a test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Much Appreciated. I should probably do the speed water pump now as well.

There is a coolant air bleed by your oil tank. I just went through this when I installed a speed water pump. Remove the plug on the line and fill the coolant resi till you get coolant out of the small air bleed hose. Install the plug And top it off. I ran mine with the cap off of the resi to top it off as the level went down. Let the fan cycle and then ready for a test drive.
 

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Much Appreciated. I should probably do the speed water pump now as well.
I would recommend it for sure. Mine was "working just fine" figured I should replace it before I have a melt down and found out it was worse than I had thought. Lots of freeplay from the drive pins on the shaft. So hopefully problem avoided I'll post up a video on my youtube of the freeplay from pins to shaft.
 

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There is a coolant air bleed by your oil tank. I just went through this when I installed a speed water pump. Remove the plug on the line and fill the coolant resi till you get coolant out of the small air bleed hose. Install the plug And top it off. I ran mine with the cap off of the resi to top it off as the level went down. Let the fan cycle and then ready for a test drive.
\
How hard was that Speed water pump job?
Looks like the housing lower bolts may be a PITA- or is there access from below?
 

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\
How hard was that Speed water pump job?
Looks like the housing lower bolts may be a PITA- or is there access from below?
It wasnt bad at all. Remove clutches, inner housing. And my plan was to replace the crank output at the same time since the 4 bolts on the front of the inner clutch housing hold the flange for the output shaft/ bearing. Just be ready to deal with falling coolant. I used a small kiddie pool. Removed my rear plastic skid. Popped the main coolant hose and bam. Hardest part really is having a buddy turn the engine over i.e. alternator pulley till the water pump gear clears the counter balancer and comes right out. Just remember to only turn the engine in a fashion to where it's in its normal rotation. CCW when looking at the clutch. The mechanical seal gave me a little trouble on the way out. But wasnt bad. I know I know I should of made a video.
 

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Hi Everybody,
I have a2018 XX and last week I had a coolant line slip off by the motor. I reinstalled it today and realized there is no radiator cap on radiator. How do I get coolant into the system? Is there a bleeder screw?
Thanks
Did you have the coolant line come off infront of the engine? Right there at the thermostat? I've had the same hose come off twice now. Thinking I have a thermostat issue building pressure.....
 

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Speed had a cool idea on their race cars. They had a Schrader Valve on the end of that bleed hose so they could easily burp any extra air out. At the time I didn't know it was something special or I would have asked more questions. I don't know if it is a special high temp Schrader valve or what but it would be worth looking into
 

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I think either my thermostat or water pump went tits-up while the rig was being test driven at the shop today. I would bet it is the water pump. If it is, i'll be doing the speed water pump update too.
 

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I think either my thermostat or water pump went tits-up while the rig was being test driven at the shop today. I would bet it is the water pump. If it is, i'll be doing the speed water pump update too.
How many miles?
Trying to get a gauge on when I will need to do mine...
 

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Speed had a cool idea on their race cars. They had a Schrader Valve on the end of that bleed hose so they could easily burp any extra air out. At the time I didn't know it was something special or I would have asked more questions. I don't know if it is a special high temp Schrader valve or what but it would be worth looking into
I've used 1/8" NPT push button bleeder valves on my race cars. Brass construction with a rubber seat and they have worked perfectly for many years. Unfortunately, I can't remember where I bought them!

Many aluminum racing calipers use a 1/8 NPT fitting with the bleed screw in it, so that the caliper isn't ruined if the bleed screw seat gets damaged. Those are available from almost any race supply store. The bleed screw is plated steel, so long term there could be corrosion issues when used in a cooling system.
 

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How many miles?
Trying to get a gauge on when I will need to do mine...
I have about 1200 miles, with most being dunes and desert. I believe they say sustained high RPM driving kills these pumps and I fall into this category. However, I won't be able to confirm that it is the pump until next week. I should have just replaced it, because I knew it was just a matter of time until it went out. So regardless, it will get replaced now. The truth is that I was waiting for feedback on the Speed pump swap out- new parts sometimes have new issues.
 

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I never did gripe about the axle situation, but I'm a little miffed about the water pump. It seems like Textron should have their own fix for this, like the axle, and it should be a recall type item because it could lead to major engine work. I also do a lot of solo rides out into the desert and expend a lot of effort into being prepared for the worst. A water pump going out is hard to prepare for. Now I didn't blow a head gasket or damage my engine, but it could have happened. Thank goodness Speed did this pump update.
 

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The new speed pump is in. It looks like it will do the job for the duration of the engine. The pump in the Yamaha/XX engine is crap compared to the Speed version. The little plastic blade was spinning freely on the shaft, so it was definitely bad.

The stock XX pump should have been over engineered. Even if it doesn't fail for Yamaha YXZ etc., why risk engine failure or a breakdown over a cheap part.

I also find it hard to believe that none of these pumps went out during testing? I think this may have been a bean cruncher thing. It was probably cheaper to release it with the defect based on the percentage of anticipated failures.
 
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