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Discussion Starter #1
After a few accessories you get a cluster of wires running from your battery terminals. Anyone want to share their bus bar/distribution block set up? I’d like to clean things up.

Curtis
 

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I have the BlueSea 12 circuit fuse block. I have it tucked up under the dash on the passenger side which keeps it out of the weather and is easily accessible. It also makes it easy for pulling power to switches as it's located right near the dash. I ran a wire from the battery (10 ga?) to a relay mounted near the distribution block. I then used the stock SAE plug under the dash to trigger the relay which makes my distribution block switched with the ignition and everything is in pretty close proximity.


I'm still debating with myself if I should have gone with everything switched (I did) or split (some switched, some always hot. I'm thinking now I want my GPS always hot with a separate switch, but at the same time, I like being able to turn off the ignition and having everything turn off. My GPS also has a battery so if I want it on, it could run on that for a little while.

Here's pics of mine, up under the dash.



Here you can't even see it from the front.


Here's my cover. I'm trying contact paper over the labels as the last labels were starting to peel off.
 

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I used the same block ^^^ but mounted it under the passenger seat by the ecm. Easy access. My accessory wiring runs forward under the center tunnel.
 
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For me it was reasonably priced and does what I need it to do. There are other distribution blocks out there (Concours Specialties is one) that are really nice, waterproof (I believe) and integrate relays for switching so you can decide what's switched and what's not. These get pricey though ($200+ I believe). I wish the Bluesea block had a little more protection as the cover is kind of just a safety cover, but I've never had any issue from it. Mounted up under the dash, the only weather it sees is from washing the machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got a little carried away with my winch power. I went with a 4 gauge wire on a 3000# winch. I’ve got some leftover wire that I plan on running to the bus. It seems like there is a lot of room under the passenger seat. And that would keep the power from the battery as short as possible. But, I could see that putting the bus under the dash would make for a cleaner install. I’m guessing I could go with something like 8 gauge from the battery out to under the dash. 🤔
 

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Not sure what machine you have. No room under the passenger on a trail. I'm guessing you have a 1000 like Sand-n-Sea. That gauge wire is plenty, even if running up under the dash. You might have an issue with the terminals though and the connector to the stud with wire that large.

BlueSea has an ampacity chart. You will need to consider your total available amps and add up everything you might run at once. Then calculate the total feet of wire from battery to block and back to battery. The chart will tell you what gauge wire you need. I always like to go one step larger to be on the safe side. I also put an inline 30A fuse between my battery and relay, but you might have an issue doing that with such large gauge of wire.
 

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On my X, I picked up a nice 6 fuse Waterwich fuse block from Amazon that has LEDs that light up when a fuse blows. I used countersunk head screws and mounted it to the battery hold-down strap. The power lead to the new fuse block is probably less than 4" long, and you can go to either the battery + or the hot side of the starter solenoid so long as you aren't running your winch power through the fuse block (running a winch SWITCH would be fine).
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Not sure what machine you have. No room under the passenger on a trail. I'm guessing you have a 1000 like Sand-n-Sea. That gauge wire is plenty, even if running up under the dash. You might have an issue with the terminals though and the connector to the stud with wire that large.

BlueSea has an ampacity chart. You will need to consider your total available amps and add up everything you might run at once. Then calculate the total feet of wire from battery to block and back to battery. The chart will tell you what gauge wire you need. I always like to go one step larger to be on the safe side. I also put an inline 30A fuse between my battery and relay, but you might have an issue doing that with such large gauge of wire.
I'm thinking the only circuit that can't be run through a fuse block is the winch power. Everything else including my light bar should be able to be moved to the new fuse panel. I've got a 6-way fuse panel so a 8 or 10 gauge wire running to the panel should be adequate.
 

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The winch switch can come from the fuse block, but not the winch power.

As for the light bar, I took a different approach. The wire used to power the headlights was sufficient to power my light bar. So I split it so that the factory wiring handles my light bar. When I switch on my relay it powers my light bar. When off, my headlights act as normal. My light bar drowns out the stock headlights so by doing it this way I save some power when my light bar is on without having to switch the stock lights off manually. Now I have low beams, high beams, and mega beams.
 
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