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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody made it so they can take out their lower A-arm bolts without removing damn near the whole front end? I have a brush guard bumper on my '14 trail and I need to do my front bushings badly and I am wondering if there is any modification I can do now to make this job easier the next time I do it. Could I just trim a hole or slot down where I could get a socket in? Has anyone done this before?

Also I have a light bar attached to the weld nuts in the frame tube right in front of the windshield. Any ideas for making it so I dont have to completely unbolt and remove the light bar any time I want to take the hood off? Should I just cut some slots there as well?
 

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A arm bushings are a pain no matter what you do, but some for thought could help out later.
 

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I removed the arms and took the old brass ones out last night. Those were kind of a PITA to get out honestly but theyre finally out. I discovered one of my steel pins was bent so I went ahead and ordered a whole SuperATV front end rebuild kit for my unit. UHMW bushings with stainless pins and I also have a second set of Delrin ones as backup. I dont think an easy access hole is going to work honestly after looking at the front end more. Theres a big formed steel piece right where you would have to cut holes and it looks like it is pretty structural. Oh well it was a good idea on paper.

I slotted my hood so I can hopefully install it with the lightbar on, Will update on that once I get everything back together. I removed the horrible lift bracket and re-adjusted my preload back to just a little firmer than stock so it wont rattle my teeth out anymore and maybe be easier on the bushings. I would imagine having the front shocks super stiff with the bracket wore the stock bushings pretty quick. With a skidplate and 27" tires I am not too worried about sliding over stuff, I can sacrifice 1" of clearance for way better ride quality.

Another question though. My sway bar links were way wore out. Any recommendations for new ones?
 

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Do a search on here some have gone to a heim joint used in the racing scene. Sway bar bushings can be had from energy suspension, garage products to name a few.
 

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You can swing the front sub frame bottom out instead of taking the front end apart. I do this so i don't have to remove my bumper, light bars, and grill. (1) Take the top 2 radiator bolts/nuts out, (2) loosen the 2 bolt/nut at top of sub frame near your upper shock mounts ( don't take nuts all the way off as this will be the hinge to swing on), (3) remove 2 torx under front fenders near headlights, (4) remove the 2 lower bolts holding lower sub frame to main frame. Now you should be able to swing sub frame enough to get lower bolts out. I can get pics later if that would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You can swing the front sub frame bottom out instead of taking the front end apart. I do this so i don't have to remove my bumper, light bars, and grill. (1) Take the top 2 radiator bolts/nuts out, (2) loosen the 2 bolt/nut at top of sub frame near your upper shock mounts ( don't take nuts all the way off as this will be the hinge to swing on), (3) remove 2 torx under front fenders near headlights, (4) remove the 2 lower bolts holding lower sub frame to main frame. Now you should be able to swing sub frame enough to get lower bolts out. I can get pics later if that would help.
I actually ended up doing exactly that. I just let my winch rope out a little and propped it up with a 2x4 and it worked just fine. The SATV bushings ended up being for their arms so they dont fit the stock arms but the Metal spacer pins will fit the OEM style bushings so I ordered some of those as well. My top arm bushings are suprisingly tight so I am not going to replace those just yet.

I have the hood slots cut so hopefully when I go to put everything back together I can get the hood on after installing the light bar.
 
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