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The JE Pistons definitely work on an X. That's what I went with, but in low compression (turbo). As I mentioned above, they are available in 3 or 4 different compression ratios, all the way up to 12.5:1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
It’s not going easy.
I did one final inspection to make sure I account for all the parts that need to be replaced.
The cylinder head is also damaged.

252485
 

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Given what the spark plug looked like, I am not surprised.

If your cam is okay, you can buy any X cylinder head and re-use your cam. If your cam was damaged when the valve got broken, you'll need to find a rear cylinder head assembly. My SWAG is that the rocker would break or bend before the cam got damaged.
 
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If you are doing the starter upgrade kit also order the starter clutch one way bearing. Apparently some guys who have done the starter upgrade have still had issues because the one way bearing wasn’t replaced at the same time
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Given what the spark plug looked like, I am not surprised.

If your cam is okay, you can buy any X cylinder head and re-use your cam. If your cam was damaged when the valve got broken, you'll need to find a rear cylinder head assembly. My SWAG is that the rocker would break or bend before the cam got damaged.
The cam and rocker look fine, but I will take another deeper look to be 100% sure.
I found a used X cylinder head on eBay, located in Poland. Will probably order that.
Interestingly, I couldn't find new head assembly anywhere (part number engraved on the head is 0808-171-B).

If you are doing the starter upgrade kit also order the starter clutch one way bearing. Apparently some guys who have done the starter upgrade have still had issues because the one way bearing wasn’t replaced at the same time
I'm planning to order this one: Arctic Cat 0825-032 - KIT,STARTER-SEVERE DUTY (H2) | Partzilla.com
Doesn't seem to include the bearing you're referring to. Can you please point me to the relevant part?
Couldn't find it in the parts diagrams.
 

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Manufacturers routinely change part numbers when a part or assembly has any change. The current p/n for your cylinder head is 0808-227, ~$600.

AC calls the one-way bearing a starter clutch, p/n 0802-035, ~$200.

Perhaps someone will confirm that the change in the pitch of the starter drivetrain gears does not extend to the big gear that attaches to the one-way bearing. Since the parts explosion mentions that the updated starter requires the updated intermediate gear and does not mention the larger gear, I'm relatively certain you don't need that one.
 

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The cam and rocker look fine, but I will take another deeper look to be 100% sure.
I found a used X cylinder head on eBay, located in Poland. Will probably order that.
Interestingly, I couldn't find new head assembly anywhere (part number engraved on the head is 0808-171-B).


I'm planning to order this one: Arctic Cat 0825-032 - KIT,STARTER-SEVERE DUTY (H2) | Partzilla.com
Doesn't seem to include the bearing you're referring to. Can you please point me to the relevant part?
Couldn't find it in the parts diagrams.
0802-035 Is the starter clutch one way bearing​
 

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Manufacturers routinely change part numbers when a part or assembly has any change. The current p/n for your cylinder head is 0808-227, ~$600.

AC calls the one-way bearing a starter clutch, p/n 0802-035, ~$200.

Perhaps someone will confirm that the change in the pitch of the starter drivetrain gears does not extend to the big gear that attaches to the one-way bearing. Since the parts explosion mentions that the updated starter requires the updated intermediate gear and does not mention the larger gear, I'm relatively certain you don't need that one.
The starter upgrade does not effect the large gear attached to the starter clutch one way bearing. If you buy the clutch you can use your existing large gear. Mine had a sliver chip off one tooth but I didn’t replace the gear but did replace the one way bearing.
 

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On the older cats the gear that the starter directly engages has 58/14 teeth. The "58" part mates with the old style starter.
The upgraded Starter MUST be used with the upgraded gear which has 44/14 teeth.
 

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Can you remove the head when the engine installed on the vehicle or do I need to pull it off to do that?
Not sure I want to get into removing the engine from the vehicle, if that's needed I might take it to the shop for them to continue.
Yes, It is possible to remove cylinder head with engine still in cradle the head(back near rear bumper) is fairly easy but the head near firewall requires removing a lot of plastic panels. NOTE*** on the Wildcat X1000 there are (2)two seperate timing marks on flywheel. Any more questions I have pictures of this Job. You can find a used head on E-bay lol it's what I did. Or someone here might have one the front and rear cylinder heads are Interchangeable..
 

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The cylinder head is interchangeable. The cylinder head assembly (head, cam, etc) is not.
 

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Hello I believe this problem matches what happened to my first Wildcat X1000 when people say rear we mean the cylinder that is below your trunk cargo pocket. That cylinder is fairly easy to work on. well it seems you have dropped a valve keeper you can access the vavles by removing the valve cover with basic tools and a torx 30 for all the plastic coverings. post what you find and I will help as much and so will others on here!!!!🙏good luck.
 

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I just repaired an x motor that did this same thing the valve is 2 piece and breaks falls into the cylinder and its game over . The heads themselves are same 1000 ho , 1000 x and the 550 use the same head so if you have access to ebay this can be easy to find just look at the area where cam rides its needs to be shiny if it looks scored up keep looking . The cylinder for the X is 0804-061 and the standard is 0804-031 which has been superseded by 0804-064 . Easy to find the standard on ebay the X not so much . the x cylinder is either .020 or .030 shorter than the standard thats how they got more power from it by upping the compression and cam profile . The pistons are part number 0805-409 they have a relief cut in them for the intake valve . That is the piston provided for X and non X now, non X used to have no valve relief . I built a non X motor using the wiseco pistons they are much higher compression than stock with a noticeable exhaust tone change it has run good for many years with stock cams . I have 3 of these wildcats the motor for the next one Im thinking of using a X bottom end I have with the 0804-031 cylinders with the wiseco pistons ( that should get the compression back ) and the X cams ( still enough clearance for them ) . The only concern I would have with what you have there is you said it popped at high speed . This kind of failure would have put a huge amount of stress on an already ( cheap ) lower rod bearing it could have cracked some of the rollers and no way of knowing without pressing apart and inspecting . Almost better to get a new or used crank if you knew it did not have the same kind of failure . Splitting the case is no big deal, trans is pretty simple in these , I would want inspect the oil pump and clean the bottom case half out at minumum there are a lot of places for small parts to hide in there . Oh and the kibblewhite one piece valves and spring kit are pretty high quality parts that may help prevent this kind of failure .
 

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The main killer of valves which causes them to break and drop is heat. A valve relies on being seated, with good contact from the valve face to seat, for heat transfer. If the contact area is bad (like a bad valve job) or more common the valve lash is incorrect, then the heat cannot transfer from the valve to the head sufficiently. There's some other variables too of course like exhaust manifold leaks, ignition timing, but apples to apples in same or stock motor comparison it's down to the valve job/contact and valve lash. This also explains why exhaust valves burn and/or break way more often than intake valves. The heat. Just my 2 cents to that subject.
 
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