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Could you put your axles in and o
Loosely ut a tie down strap around them so they wouldn't flop around
Have you bought the shock gusset kit yet was wondering how much trouble they are to weld in
I blew a belt today changed it in a snow storm think I'm going to put the bypass hose in haven't had a water pump problem think the impeller problem is caused by cavitation from air
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Discussion Starter #62
Could you put your axles in and o
Loosely ut a tie down strap around them so they wouldn't flop around
Have you bought the shock gusset kit yet was wondering how much trouble they are to weld in
I blew a belt today changed it in a snow storm think I'm going to put the bypass hose in haven't had a water pump problem think the impeller problem is caused by cavitation from air
My backup plan is to tie up the axles...just was hoping that I could get lucky on finding some used stub axles.
That suck hearing about your belt. When mine blew,I was hoping that all I had to do was swap in a new belt..it’s now turned into a major project(s).
I was going to get the parts to do my own bleeder kit. But seeing how deep I’ve gotten into tearing this thing,I was considering biting the bullet and getting the Speed WP kit.
As far as the gusset kit,once you remove everything(seats,firewall,rear body panels,etc)I’m sure it’s just some simple welding,but to get the acces to weld it there is a lot of pieces.
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Discussion Starter #63
Do you all think I should replace this rear wheel bearing? The inner race of both inner and outer bearings comes out. The bearings themselves feel fine,and I was going
252272
to re-grease anyways.
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Discussion Starter #64
252273
 

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My race came out one my rigs also, was told by a pretty good Cat shop that said all is fine pack em and go ride. That’s been two years ago all’s been fine. Will be checking em this winter for the yearly check up.
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Discussion Starter #66
My race came out one my rigs also, was told by a pretty good Cat shop that said all is fine pack em and go ride. That’s been two years ago all’s been fine. Will be checking em this winter for the yearly check up.
Thanks for the info! That’s the type of news I needed! Getting tired of dumping money into this thing...lol. I know it never stops though.
 

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Weddle prep is worth the money. We built a car for a customer and he ran the full local Vorra race series here and took 1st place championship in the Pro NA class.

We have wheel bearings in stock if you choose to replace or need them for down the road.
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Discussion Starter #68
Weddle prep is worth the money. We built a car for a customer and he ran the full local Vorra race series here and took 1st place championship in the Pro NA class.

We have wheel bearings in stock if you choose to replace or need them for down the road.
Thanks for confirming Weddle. They have a strong long lasting name in the off road/sand community!
Also great to know you stock the wheel bearings! I’m trying to save up for those beautiful motor/trans mounts you guys fabricate! I’ve got that window open so I can sack up and buy them! I’m going to throw the money I would’ve spent on wheel bearings and put in my slush fund for those mounts. Thanks again for the support!
 

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I got some bearings from 775 to install, but not needing to do yet but glad I have em for when the time comes..
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Discussion Starter #70
So my Speed WP kit showed up and went to remove the Primary clutch to gain access and swap the inner CVT cover. Removed the retaining bolt,and threaded in the puller tool and kept tightening to a point where I stopped feeling I was going to far(YouTube video seemed like it loosened up pretty quickly) so removed the puller tool and the end 3” was bent. Any trick to getting the Primary clutch off? Thanks
 

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So my Speed WP kit showed up and went to remove the Primary clutch to gain access and swap the inner CVT cover. Removed the retaining bolt,and threaded in the puller tool and kept tightening to a point where I stopped feeling I was going to far(YouTube video seemed like it loosened up pretty quickly) so removed the puller tool and the end 3” was bent. Any trick to getting the Primary clutch I use 1/2 inch Drive air gun until the puller tooler quits Turnin then hit it with a hammer a 5 lb brass Hammer and it should pop off problem
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Thanks...it seemed like I could have kept trying to tighten the puller tool,never felt like it bottomed out. I’m returning the puller tool I purchased from G & H and bought a EPI puller. I’ll try the process over again then. Just didn’t seem right to keep cranking on the puller tool.
 

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I read similar advice (whacking the primary with a dead-blow or brass hammer) when I had an X. A few hundred miles later, the thrust bearing holder failed, allowing the crank to float the flywheel/rotor into the stator. Could be a coincidence, but wailing on something connected to the crankshaft seems like a bad idea.

I use a variation on the hydraulic hack, which is filling the threaded bore of the clutch with water, then applying a thick layer of pipe thread tape to the puller so that you get hydraulic pressure in addition to the mechanical force when you run the puller into the clutch. Using water requires the machine to be tilted up on the left side. Call me lazy, but I just fill the cavity with my grease gun. I thought it might make a bigger mess to clean up, but the grease pretty much stays in place, with just a small amount blowing out around the PTO shaft when the clutch pops off.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I read similar advice (whacking the primary with a dead-blow or brass hammer) when I had an X. A few hundred miles later, the thrust bearing holder failed, allowing the crank to float the flywheel/rotor into the stator. Could be a coincidence, but wailing on something connected to the crankshaft seems like a bad idea.

I use a variation on the hydraulic hack, which is filling the threaded bore of the clutch with water, then applying a thick layer of pipe thread tape to the puller so that you get hydraulic pressure in addition to the mechanical force when you run the puller into the clutch. Using water requires the machine to be tilted up on the left side. Call me lazy, but I just fill the cavity with my grease gun. I thought it might make a bigger mess to clean up, but the grease pretty much stays in place, with just a small amount blowing out around the PTO shaft when the clutch pops off.
Haha...I agree. I’m going to try and leave the hitting until totally necessary. All of the videos I’ve watched seem to show a quick 1/4-1/2 turn with the breaker bar and the clutch would crack lose. I’m hoping with the new puller that will be my success.
 

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I've had to do the hydraulic trick twice, even after buying a top-rated impact wrench. Once on my X, once on my XX. I suspect any video showing the clutch popping off with a quick turn of a breaker bar was setup with the clutch lightly assembled to the crank (or PTO in this case).
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I've had to do the hydraulic trick twice, even after buying a top-rated impact wrench. Once on my X, once on my XX. I suspect any video showing the clutch popping off with a quick turn of a breaker bar was setup with the clutch lightly assembled to the crank (or PTO in this case).
For both of those times using the Hydraulic trick,did you use the grease or water? Thanks for all of the helpful tips!
 

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For both of those times using the Hydraulic trick,did you use the grease or water? Thanks for all of the helpful tips!
I have done this but used wd-40 on a OG maverick. I could not get it off with 1500ftlb impact and this popped it right off!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I have done this but used wd-40 on a OG maverick. I could not get it off with 1500ftlb impact and this popped it right off!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks,the WD-40 might be a nice option instead of grease or water.
I assume it would be the same procedure with lifting up the left/driver side,remove primary retaining bolt spray WD-40 down PTO shaft,install pipe thread tape onto puller tool,run puller into PTO,tighten and with any luck hydraulic assist primary pops loose. Roughly how many turns with ratchet would I need before success? Last time I tried it seemed I could keep going,but obviously it was bending the end of the puller tool. Thanks Wildcat forum folks for walking me through all of my dumb questions. Rather ask dumb questions instead of damaging parts.
 

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I used grease each time.

IMHO, grease is superior to water or WD-40 since it won't run out and spread everywhere when the clutch pops off. But since I "invented" that adaptation, I am probably biased.

I used an impact wrench both times, so no way to translate that into ratchet or breaker bar supplied torque. I suspect the rapid blows of an impact wrench are more effective than the constant torque of a ratchet or breaker bar.

One other tip on clutch removal: with the stock springs I could usually feed the clutch tool through a gap in the spring. If a gap didn't line up, jacking the XX up a bit would usually correct the situation. Once the tool is fed through the spring it threads in far enough to get a socket and breaker bar on it. If I have to use the impact wrench, an extension through the spring works. The pitch of the Shock Therapy springs doesn't offer as big a gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I used grease each time.

IMHO, grease is superior to water or WD-40 since it won't run out and spread everywhere when the clutch pops off. But since I "invented" that adaptation, I am probably biased.

I used an impact wrench both times, so no way to translate that into ratchet or breaker bar supplied torque. I suspect the rapid blows of an impact wrench are more effective than the constant torque of a ratchet or breaker bar.

One other tip on clutch removal: with the stock springs I could usually feed the clutch tool through a gap in the spring. If a gap didn't line up, jacking the XX up a bit would usually correct the situation. Once the tool is fed through the spring it threads in far enough to get a socket and breaker bar on it. If I have to use the impact wrench, an extension through the spring works. The pitch of the Shock Therapy springs doesn't offer as big a gap.
Excellent point about the running/spreading of water/WD-40.
Fortunately rig now I have the upper shock bolt removed and shock leaned back so I can weld in the rear upper shock gussets in.
 
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