here is a video of how to disassemble your clutch properly, to ensure that you do not mess anything up. once you disassemble your primary, and unknowingly put it back together improperly, you will end up with a headache and be forced to purchase parts that could have been saved by having a better idea of how the clutch looks when disassembled.
for all you guys with a CVtech WCD
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Thanks Adam.
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Question. My flyweight cover areas where it's machined for the flyweights to slide against each have three triangular bumps in them and they are wearing grooves into the shoes. Is this normal. It just looks like the milling bit didn't quite get to all the surface, and I'm not understanding why they would be there.
that is an imperfection in the cover, there were some that CVtech machined that did not get machined properly. those covers were supposed to be recalled and fixed. whoever was preparing your clutch should have caught that and at least ran a small right angle die grinder or something over those bumps to smooth them out before they put it together.
you cant file them flat, that plate is hardened. its gonna take a small 2" grinder or something like that to smooth them out. that creates a bunch of friction and wont allow the clutch to slide open and closed as freely as it should. those ridges in the plate will chew up the top of the sliders and prohibit the smooth movement of the clutch.
you cant file them flat, that plate is hardened. its gonna take a small 2" grinder or something like that to smooth them out. that creates a bunch of friction and wont allow the clutch to slide open and closed as freely as it should. those ridges in the plate will chew up the top of the sliders and prohibit the smooth movement of the clutch.
dont machine the melonite surfacing off the whole plate, just take the tops off those sharp knots. it will likely be a bit of a hassle to build yourself a jig to hold the plate in order to machine the plate. its probably alot easier to use a small grinder of some sort.
when i first ran into those, i have a 2" right angle grinder that i run a 80grit pad on. i would shave the tops off those knots and then put on a red scotchbrite pad on the 2" die grinder and polish the plate out. you can use some of the buffing pads, the red or green on a small die grinder and polish that plate to a mirror. the hardened melonite coating wont grind off using one of those buffing pads. it will polish the surface smooth like glass. the smoother you get that plate, the smoother and more responsive the clutch will react. the least amount of friction you can have, the better your setup will run. the sliders on the plate, and 6 pucks that the weights sit in is a carbon and graphite composite. they lubricate themselves and slide with ease. but having those sharp edges portruding on the plate is causing alot more friction in the whole system and keeping your clutch from operating like it should.
when i first ran into those, i have a 2" right angle grinder that i run a 80grit pad on. i would shave the tops off those knots and then put on a red scotchbrite pad on the 2" die grinder and polish the plate out. you can use some of the buffing pads, the red or green on a small die grinder and polish that plate to a mirror. the hardened melonite coating wont grind off using one of those buffing pads. it will polish the surface smooth like glass. the smoother you get that plate, the smoother and more responsive the clutch will react. the least amount of friction you can have, the better your setup will run. the sliders on the plate, and 6 pucks that the weights sit in is a carbon and graphite composite. they lubricate themselves and slide with ease. but having those sharp edges portruding on the plate is causing alot more friction in the whole system and keeping your clutch from operating like it should.
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