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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys! I'm new here and have recently registered. I am from Russia and do not speak English very well, so I use a google translator, please do not kick me for grammatical errors :) In Russia, this technique is exclusive, and there are more questions than answers on local specialized forums on Wildcat. For some reason they are not liked in Russia because of the lack of spare parts, apparently, so I decided to register here.

I own a 2013 Arctic Cat Wildcat X with 2500 miles.
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It has an air duct for the engine and box (inlet - outlet), aluminum underbody protection and an aluminum roof.

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Also an additional roof light and Ryco Motorsport turn signal kit. This is all the tuning that is.

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From breakdowns: Once the variator belt broke, and a small crack appeared on the variator cover, I had to weld it. During this run, nothing else broke. Now bearings in front and steering tips require replacement. Everything is purchased and is waiting for installation.

After winter, oil mixed with air in the right shock absorber, sorted out and inserted a valve for pumping with nitrogen-air, without using a needle. Pumped up 100 psi, it's okay?
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Here you can see the problem, the wear of the coilover thread and the shock absorber rod, how can this be repaired? Both wear out.

Other side:
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There is also fogging on the bottom of the starter cover, I glued it to the sealant, but it also sweats, and it is believed that the oil hose is slightly leaking or from the oil filter.It's okay? In the photo everything is washed
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The problem is with this valve, after a 30-40 mile trip, it gets overgrown with oil dust, is that okay? The oil on the dipstick is at maximum. Sometimes throws into the air filter
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And from below I attach a video with the sound of the engine at idle. Confused by a knocking sound. If you press the gas pedal, the sound disappears, when the engine is hot, there is no sound. Engine oil 10W-50, synthetics. Is this the norm or is the motor dead? However, I see no change in power or acceleration. The exhaust pipe is clean and oil is not consumed. Video on links:
Файл из Облака Mail.ru
 

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Welcome Mo Simpson. Don't worry about your English, you're fine. Nobody will give you a hard time. Couple of things I can comment on, first if you can get them, I recommend harnesses and a harness bar. But I don't know if you have offroad shops there?
The rub marks on the shocks were kind of common. Some cars did it some didn't. Quality control. If you're getting oil in your air box, you have too much. You say it's at the top of the fill line on the dipstick, should be about halfway up.
Change out every hose clamp. The stock AC clamps were never any good, and that combined with too much oil could be forcing oil out. You won't know until you change the clamps. I also recommend double clamping that hose by the oil filter.
If you have access to nitrogen, I would go to 150 psi. 100 is kind of low, IMO for the shocks.

It's great to have new members from around the world! We have a great group of members that are very knowledgeable, and give great advice.
 
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welcome to the forum mo simpson...love the below pic of your rig in the tall grain...be safe out there...
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Arctic Cat Wildcat X 2013
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@DeanTeck @Gord Thank you very much!

@Hollywood Thank you, the pressure in the shock absorber is raised to 150 psi. Shock scratches are normal, do not need to do anything?
Also, on your recommendation, I changed the clamps on the oil hose, put 2 pieces. And I put the starter cover on the sealant, since the gasket was torn.The cover no leaks the oil. But, the hose with two clamps still allows oil to pass through, plus the oil filter flows, it is twisted tightly. Below the photo, I circled in red the places of accumulation of oil. The oil is new, 10w-50, half the level on the dipstick.
Dust sticks to the oil very strongly, in the photo everything is perfectly visible and looks awful. What to do about it?
P.S.: I found out the knock comes from the CVT cover.
 

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@DeanTeck @Gord Thank you very much!

@Hollywood Thank you, the pressure in the shock absorber is raised to 150 psi. Shock scratches are normal, do not need to do anything?
Also, on your recommendation, I changed the clamps on the oil hose, put 2 pieces. And I put the starter cover on the sealant, since the gasket was torn.The cover no leaks the oil. But, the hose with two clamps still allows oil to pass through, plus the oil filter flows, it is twisted tightly. Below the photo, I circled in red the places of accumulation of oil. The oil is new, 10w-50, half the level on the dipstick.
Dust sticks to the oil very strongly, in the photo everything is perfectly visible and looks awful. What to do about it?
P.S.: I found out the knock comes from the CVT cover.
I would visually check the hose for any split or pin hole? The case is a tough one. I don't want to tell you you might have to split the case to add new sealant. That's a job! First try cleaning thoroughly with Simple Green ( if you have that there) and once again visually check. Oil could be "pooling" there from a leak elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think it's a hose. Nothing flows from the lid, it is dry. Re-sealed the lid with sealant 20 miles ago.
But why is the oil filter leaking?
 

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looks like the filter's sidewall is pushed in away from the base bottom...have you tried another filter?...
 

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The V twin, un-even firing H2 engine vibrates like crazy. An oil filter installed to the same torque that is perfect on a car will loosen up and leak. While I don't think it is likely that you caught it when it just started to leak - my hunch is that it goes from no leak to massive leak very, very quickly - I would tighten the filter another 1/4 turn minimum, clean it thoroughly and check again in a few miles. If it turns somewhat easily for 1/4 turn, tighten it more.

The K&N oil filter is a favorite for the 1000 / X due to the nut welded to the end of the filter. You can tighten the filter enough to keep it from loosening, yet remove it with ease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
looks like the filter's sidewall is pushed in away from the base bottom...have you tried another filter?...
No, I did not use another oil filter. I do not know which filters can be used

@mbrandt1402 Okay, thanks. I'll try to tighten it even more. But I remember, I put it very tightly and twisted it with my hand very tightly to the stop. I think another oil filter really solve the problem
 

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No, I did not use another oil filter. I do not know which filters can be used
i didn't mean for you to use another brand of filter just try a new one of the same brand...by looking at the picture you posted inside the lower red highlighted area it looks like oil is coming out at the bottom above the base of the filter...

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i didn't mean for you to use another brand of filter just try a new one of the same brand...by looking at the picture you posted inside the lower red highlighted area it looks like oil is coming out at the bottom above the base of the filter...

View attachment 253191
Great catch Dean! Looks like the seam split.
 

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Great catch Dean! Looks like the seam split.
i'm thinking it might be a language issue with mo with his google translator program that he doesn't understand what i saw and was trying to get across to him...hopefully he'll see what we see now...
 

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i'm thinking it might be a language issue with mo with his google translator program that he doesn't understand what i saw and was trying to get across to him...hopefully he'll see what we see now...
Helping members out, that's what it's all about!
 

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yeah best to use a new oilfilter thats cheap ! btw i wouldnt split the case just because of some DROPS of oil ! sometimes works to seal from outside- a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah best to use a new oilfilter thats cheap ! btw i wouldnt split the case just because of some DROPS of oil ! sometimes works to seal from outside- a bit...
I think, in the future i will use this advice, because split the case it's hard

@DeanTeck and @Hollywood in this weekends i will take your advice and check the hose for leaks and inspect the filter
I'll write when I'm do everything and take a test ride, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi guys! Do you know the size of this hose? Need length and inside diameter. It is numbered in the catalog: 0410-267;
and parameters:
Hose,oil-9.52 id x 1702mm lg
47 x 16 x 5.5

as I understand it, its inner diameter is 9.52 millimeters and its length is 1.7 meters?
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper Vehicle
 

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hey russian man- you an buy ANY(car or motorcycle)oil hose that fits in diameter and you can cut the lenght you need ;-)

btw seems your mr president is the most hated man right now? ;- ()

-we dont have to get political-

btw our city vienna is FULL from POOR ukrain. migrants....;- ()

( isee NO ladas but a lot of q7, x6, porsche cayenne aso.)

greets

btw in summer i ride thicker oil not that waterthin 0w40 i go to 10w60 0r 15w50 much better in summer heat ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
hey russian man- you an buy ANY(car or motorcycle)oil hose that fits in diameter and you can cut the lenght you need ;-)

btw seems your mr president is the most hated man right now? ;- ()

-we dont have to get political-

btw our city vienna is FULL from POOR ukrain. migrants....;- ()

( isee NO ladas but a lot of q7, x6, porsche cayenne aso.)

greets

btw in summer i ride thicker oil not that waterthin 0w40 i go to 10w60 0r 15w50 much better in summer heat ;-)
Yes, I can buy, but I need to know what inside diameter, and the cat is quite far away now :D

About our president, I understand. I have nothing to do with him, and I have nothing to do with politics.

Only rich people can afford to leave Ukraine, and they left.

I also use 10w-50 or 5w-50 in the summer))
 
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