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I was going to do a scoop a little further forward to take advantage of the arch in the roof, but too close could put it below the airflow coming up off of the windshield.

Today I'm thinking I might just try lifting the front edge of the roof a couple of inches. It if works, I could fabricate a linkage. I think I mentioned that my UTVZilla roof is springy and is in a fair amount of tension when bolted down to the ROPS. I'm pretty sure it will spring open, if allowed.
 

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Seeing your scoop prototype, I thought I would describe the process to make a one-off part with fiberglass.

Fiberglass supply shops all seem to carry a 2 part foaming kit for boat buoyancy. Protect the roof and make an aluminum foil dam, then mix and pour the 2-part foam and let it expand. Remove from the roof and carve to shape, then lay-up layers of cloth and resin. Paint it with gelcoat repeatedly. It always takes me several coats to build up enough gelcoat to be able to sand it down to a nice finish. Carve the foam out of the inside. Done.

The boat foam is a key ingredient, as the polyester resin will not break it down. I've used the expanding foam insulation stuff in an emergency, but you have to skin it with Bondo and then wax the Bondo to get the fiberglass resin to release.

It really doesn't take much skill, just perseverance and an eye for carving/sanding a shape.
 

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r u using your hvac skills?...how about placement of the scoop?...isn't the scoop on the speedsxs roof more forward? already have a dark grey pool noodle for the air opening in our garage here in florida...that's just about my limitations...
yep down towards the front and about an inch to maybe an inch and a half lower in height.. back on the drawing table tomorrow and hopefully welding this weekend
 

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yep down towards the front and about an inch to maybe an inch and a half lower in height.. back on the drawing table tomorrow and hopefully welding this weekend
look forward to see your finished product...i didn't consider the speedsxs roof as i didn't care for its looks...never thought about the dust in the cab when buying our xx...
 

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I thought about it, but the price plus an average of $100 freight was hard to justify. Or at least it was back then!
 

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yes the look is one of those "itll grow on you" things.. I was going to sell it after putting it on, but after a couple rides, I like the looks..haha round 2 today to try to figure something out..getting antsy to start some tig'n this weekend
 

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You can take out the kick panel by your feet (few screws) and open the push up windshield. Amazing the difference it makes
 

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Number 2 Dean, hows that one? I think I’m going with this one. Need to start cutting aluminum and get ready for a tig’n weekend.
 

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Do you have a similar light on the XX with the Speed roof? The flat camera angle of the last pic makes me wonder if the light will impact how effective the scoop is. I didn't notice it so much in the pic of the first mock-up.
 

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Pretty close to same. That light is coming off and a speed set up is going on. It clears it pretty good also.
 

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after thinking about it, which hard to do some days, think Ill wait until I get the speed light bar installed before I go on..
 

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I feel like I am now winning the war on heat and making progress on dust.

Harbor Freight sells a psuedo anti-fatigue mat that is basically just closed-cell foam molded with a diamond plate finish on one side. It is a great raw material for blocking off openings, like the back of the dash from side to side:
20200722_100248[1].jpg The duct tape that I first tried does not hold up well, so I reinstalled the foam pieces with Velcro. In theory, this should allow me to remove the foam if I need to get to the backside of the dash for whatever reason.

I also closed off the top of the console channel. If you look closely below the coolant expansion tank, you'll see the same grey diamond tread foam. There is a similar piece of foam blocking off the top of the channel immediately forward of the dash and behind the wall of foam shown in the first picture.
20200722_100312[1].jpg

I added a foam skirt to the console, closing the gaps around the gas tank and between the lower edge of the console and the skid plate (which is not installed in this pic):
20200723_173448[1].jpg

I also realized I could temporarily add some ventilation from above. The UTVZilla roof is pretty springy, so I backed the fasteners off as far as I could. I don't remember if they send different length screws or if I substituted some of my own, but the center screws allowed for a larger gap than the outside:
20200726_120438[1].jpg This small gap allowed a surprising amount of air into the cab. As you might expect, the air flow was over our heads. We didn't notice anything different, other than being far more comfortable.

The combo seems to work really well, and I didn't think the roof looked too dorky. None of my friends seemed to even notice. I will put more effort into figuring out how to open and tightly close the leading edge of the roof and less into building a scoop.
 
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The Harbor Freight mats with Velcro method looks good. But where does all that hot air exit to now?
For dust prevention, I found that sealing off the back edge of the skid plate across the full width was best after taping off all the holes behind the seats.
I used that foam pipe insulation to seal off the back edge. Remove the screws, stuff the insulation into the gap about an inch or so, put the screws back in, then trim off the excess foam.
 

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I'm not blocking any of the intended paths for radiator air. The stuff I added just makes sure any air that gets around the plastic OEM air guides under the hood doesn't wind up in the cab. Essentially, I'm dealing with air leaks.

My first efforts did not include sealing the gap between the top of the footwell moldings, and I also had not added any venting to get more air into the cabin. There was a little improvement, but not enough. As I studied the path that air could take given that is is basically sucked into the low pressure zone in the cabin, it was obvious to me that the back of the dash needed to be completely sealed off, including that spot between the footwells.

I had previously taped all of the gaps around the gas tank, but the duct tape I used (good 3M stuff) gave up in short order. This time I used spray adhesive on mats that could be permanently installed and velcro elsewhere. Time will tell if I've stumbled onto a more permanent solution.
 

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Cautionary warning: Yesterday, we participated in a parade in support of our local PD. Once it got rolling, the outside air temp was already 104F and climbing. A lot of stop and go along the approximate 10 mile drive. I finally had to bail out because I was suffering from heat exhaustion and burns on my legs from the very hot air coming from under the dash. By the time I got back to the house it was 114F and it wasn’t possible to touch the steering wheel.
So, yeah, it wasn’t the brightest idea and I got burnt. However, The temp gauge never got above halfway.
251733
 

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To all that might be thinking about making a scoop for the roof: I've mentioned that the UTVZilla roof is springy, and that I can allow air into the cabin just by loosening the screws along the front edge. I picked up longer screws that allow it to open up about 1.5", maybe slightly more (the XX is at the dealer getting some minor warranty work done, so I can't go measure it). This is across the full width of the roof. I took the XX out for a test ride on our local roads and the results were very positive. The air flow into the cabin stays up by the roof until it hits the rear window, then it rolls down and forward. Cruising along at pavement speeds there is a lot of air flow, but it isn't objectionable. I'd say the air flow to my face is the same as without the roof "vent". At very low speeds the cabin still gets warm, but not like before.

The moral of the story, for me, is that it is almost impossible to go too big as far as a roof scoop.
 
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