Wildcat Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did use the search engine and have read many posts on the matter but still need a more definitive answer. Started having an idling issue. The X used to start and idle pretty good at the first start up of the day. Naturally if you didnt let it warm up it before you tried moving it it would stall. But once warmed up never had an issue with it idling. Even after warm start up it idled and ran just fine. But it came to a point where it would start great cold(no throttle, just turning the key) but to restart once warm it would start and stall. Giving it a lil throttle for a few seconds it then again seemed fine. But now it has gotten to the point where it won't start solely with just the key, Either at cold start or warm start. You now need to use the throttle all the time. And at times it still won't idle. Now once you do get it running it will idle at an average of 1200rpm. Put it in gear drive a bit but once off the throttle pedal and coming to a stop it dies down to about 700rpm and will sometimes die right out. Other times it actually will stay running but struggles to get back up to that 1200rpm idle speed( sometimes needing 10-15 seconds to regain it's idle speed). Now intermittently when it dies the po336 code will come up and flash. I have seen other posts where three codes 0336,0337,0339 popped up but mine has only ever had the 0336 code ever come up. I did clean and die electric grease the three connectors near the exhaust but didn't seem to make much if a difference. In the diagnostic it seems to be charging just fine staying above 14volts. Now if the crank position sensor is bad will it still charge correctly? No longer have a warranty and would like to try to repair this myself. Where should the next place I start to diagnose this problem
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,233 Posts
P0336 can be caused by a motor not starting or having to start it frequently in a row. Mine did that previously when one of the cylinders was cutting out and I havent seen it since.

As far as the engine dying , when was the last time you had changed your plugs? Mine would do that as the plugs got some life put into them and once I changed plugs it was fine. Hard starting can also be an indication that your valves need adjusting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,840 Posts
How do your spark plugs look? They may be fouled. Either glass bead them or replace with new ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
It sounds as if your air/fuel mixture might be running too rich. If your air filter is clean and the air pipes unobstructed, it could be caused by a sensor problem, such as a coolant temp sensor or air flow sensor... or you might have a leaking injector or fuel pressure regulator problem.
I'd check the filters and plugs first. I assume you are not burning oil and that the crankcase is not over-filled with oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
A little update. I ruled out the 0336 code like fortune said it was happening after multiple start attempts without shutting the key completely off. Air filter is clean. Pulled plugs and try were sooty black. Installed new plugs. Still seems to have the shut off issue when coming to a stop or it might catch itself right and recover once the idle dips down. Does take about 10 seconds for the idle to fully recover. But still won't start without giving it fuel even though it did start right up when it was newer. I have not had the valves adjusted yet. Anywhere else to look before I make a trip to the dealer


One more thing to say is that it is running very rich. Turning the bumper black and my followers eyes burn behind me. Also it's just been terrible on fuel. 6-7 gallons for 40-50 miles. And a few months ago it was never that bad on fuel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I had the same issue you are having before my 6 month warranty was up (except for the running rich part). not idling when coming to a stop an dying out. P0336 code...no others.

I expected the crank position sensor, but, like you tried cleaning the elec connections and shooting them full of dielectric grease. didn't help. Took it to MLS and they put a new stator w/crank sensor. Apparently that wasn't the problem or it was only part of the problem because they ended up ordering a new throttle body with all the sensors on it. That solved the problem. So, I'm not sure exactly what the problem was ...just giving you a heads up on what I went through. If I were you and out of warranty I would be on ebay ordering a crank sensor for that Yamaha four-wheeler. Apparently, it's the same as ours. Have you seen the thread on here talking about that ? would be a lot cheaper than having to buy a new stator assy just for the sensor.

what year is yours? mines a 14
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,280 Posts
Be certain that nothing is obstructing the air intake system anywhere from beginning to end.
It may be that opening the throttle to facilitate a hot start is actually giving the engine air rather than fuel, which would confirm a rich condition. A slightly leaky injector would cause trouble at idle, low running speeds, and hot starting. I'd suspect the injector on the "uphill" side of the intake maqnifold, since it would be more likely to make both cylinders run rich. With no 02 sensor, you might not get a specific code. A number of sensor problems could also cause rich running, and a bad coolant thermostat might do it, too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I can check the injectors. I did notice that the very first part of the throttle body was a lil dirty when I took the air filter out to clean it. I did spray some ether in there to wash out what I could. I was going to try to remove the throttle body and clean it but I had only taken the bed off to change the spark plugs which woukd make it difficult to remove the throttle body entirely since the radiator doesn't leave much access. I do have a heater to install so I might as well pull the radiator while I'm tapping into the coolant lines. I just don't want to break the clips on the throttle body trying to get it out with the rad in. I did hear about someone with a clogged up throttle body which caused a few running issues. I might give that a try before I start paying the dealers salary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I had the p0336 on my cat , it was the crank position sensor . fixed it with the Rhino pick up coil cheap fix . I was used to get the engine shutting of at the stop.. But was idleing fine .

Remplaced that pick up coil and never had any mores problems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
When I threw code p0336 my had similar symptoms. The day it went out I went through 6 gallons in 40 miles. But I also had a speed sensor go out at the exact same moment. I don't know if the two are connected. Replaced speed sensor and the Stratos sensor and it's back to normal. Hope yours isn't a major fix
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I would give a try to the pickup coil fix like i did on mine .. This code is especially for the crank position sensor . Pick up coil is way better than remplace the whole stator assembly because the sensor cant be bought alone from AC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,094 Posts
When my old 2012 had the idle/dying problem it was simply bad battery connection... fixed that and all was well. My buddy had the problem with a battery that was beginning to go bad... put in a new battery and all was good again.

These machines MUST have solid battery voltage to run. Unlike a car they won't run with the batt disconnected. The ECM gets all confused if there are any spikes :15:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I had the p0336 on my cat , it was the crank position sensor . fixed it with the Rhino pick up coil cheap fix . I was used to get the engine shutting of at the stop.. But was idleing fine .

Remplaced that pick up coil and never had any mores problems
What year make and model do you have I cant seem to find a crank shaft sensor for my 2014 wildcat 1000x limited
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top