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Discussion Starter #1
I developed some leaks which I believe are pressure related. I have a 14x with 3700 miles and has never leaked until now and no it was not over filled with oil. It's leaking from the front of the pan gasket above the oil filter. When I went to clean the area to apply some flex seal to try and stop the leak, I noticed about a 2" piece of gasket (appeared to be rubber) pushed out. I also had oil around the vent hose that comes out of the rear cylinder, all hoses attached to the oil separator and some oil in the air box. My thinking is the check valve in the hose going from the oil separator to the top of the case is stuck which allows the separator to fill with oil and cause pressure. I've read several posts about different ways to vent the crankcase better, such as thicker longer hoses, catch cans etc. What I plan to do is replace the check valve and add a catch can/oil separator. The catch can has an inlet line, outlet line, drain line and air filter. So my plan is to attach the hose from the rear cylinder to the inlet the hose going to the airbox attached to the outlet and the hose coming out of the top of the case attached to the drain line in the catch can with an inline check valve. Does this sound right and would this setup be any better than stock or should I just replace the check valve and be done with it?
 

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I've not ever had any long-term success stopping an oil leak from the outside of any device. That "rubber" that was pushed out is RTV silicone (there is no gasket), so there is now a tiny gap where that RTV had previously been applied. Removing and re-sealing the crankcase isn't a terrible job, once the engine is out of the chassis. Doing that will not change any gear lash or require any other adjustments. Just remove, clean the sealing surfaces aggressively and re-seal.

How is your compression? If the real issue is excessive blow-by due to worn rings, a catch can is just going to be lipstick on a pig. That might be all you need if you are taking the pig to market soon (trading your 14X in on something newer), but if you intend to keep it, it might be better to understand why you now have oil in the air box.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was hoping not to pull the motor to reseal. I've read on here that a few people have had some success stopping the oil leak by using flex seal or RTV applied from the outside. I know this is just temporary but I figured if I could reduce the pressure it might get me by another season. I will check the compression to see if excessive blow by is causing the increase in pressure.
 

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I just went through this with a 2014 team clutched cat. It had the same oil leak at the seam just above the starter. I tightened, snugged up all bolts around this area. Dropped the oil, removed the starter. Cleaned motor with engine degreaser then acetone. Scotch brite and scoured the aluminum case with a oscillating vibrating tool. Cleaned again with acetone then applied 3M fast set polyurethane smearing into the scarred surface. So far holding up. I expect it to fail at some point, but its nice to see a clean motor after a ride. Cheers. Paul
 

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I'm a little late to this one, but, last year I had a gasket blow out the top, left side case gasket. before that was leaking out the front pan, or so I thought, so had some help from the guys here, did some thinking and here is what I did. there are 3 hoses connected to the kidney shaped oil catch thing behind the driver seat. I left the hose from the left case to the oil catcher and the hose that drains back to the right side case with the one way valve. the hose that goes to the air box is the clog i think, unhook that and zip ty it next to the oil catcher, it can still breath air to the airbox without clogging that small filter with oil that led to back pressure.. attach a new hose to the top of the oil catcher where the airbox hose was, then run it down the side frame rail(behind driver seat) where it can vent freely. i dont think it is really dumping to much oil into the soil as I no longer have to add oil much at all. front oil leak was the starter o ring, went to auto store bought a box of assorted distributor o rings, found one just a hair bigger than the oem o ring. yes it was a little harder to get the starter back in. I did use the flex seal on the front case just in case that had a leak. Driving for the whole year with no leaks or trouble, runs great...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It turned out the excessive pressure was caused by low compression. The front cylinder was 140 psi and the rear was 155 psi. She still ran and started fine but couldn’t go faster then about 55 mph. The problem was caused by sucking dust through the air box.
 

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I searched, but could not find a substitute for the expensive OEM rings. A new set returned my n/a engine to good form, but DANG it hurts to spend that much for 6 little pieces of metal. Oops - 10 pcs, since the oil ring is a 3 pc assembly.
 
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