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You know Im following this project sir and cant wait to get a report with a properly broken in turbo! Now that the SandShow is about over that signals the riding season here in the West. Get her done lmk when your coming down and we will go hit the dunes. Hey SandnSea your welcome to come join the dinosaur turbo Wildcats. I promise you a better trip and will not leave you back. (big misunderstanding on my groups part)
 

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You know Im following this project sir and cant wait to get a report with a properly broken in turbo! Now that the SandShow is about over that signals the riding season here in the West. Get her done lmk when your coming down and we will go hit the dunes. Hey SandnSea your welcome to come join the dinosaur turbo Wildcats. I promise you a better trip and will not leave you back. (big misunderstanding on my groups part)
I'll be out there as usual; mostly Ocotillo Wells. And every trip is an adventure. The most memorable ones are when unexpected happens. So in a way, unexpected makes a trip better. I had a great time with you at Glamis as always Joey :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The project went on hold for a few days while I searched for a lost part. I know I had the oil drain for the turbo when I was mocking up the system a month ago, but where it went I have no idea. So after losing a day searching all through the shop, I made a new drain and gasket.

All of the mechanical stuff except the new air filter and the intercooler and tubing is now installed.
IMG_1105.JPG IMG_1106.JPG IMG_1107.JPG IMG_1109.JPG

I'll start the wiring tomorrow. The turbo system wiring isn't that extensive, but I have to lengthen 12 wires for the Koso boost/AFR/water temp gauge. I hate what I call "mash-crimped" connectors and butt-splices, so there will be a fair bit of soldering & shrink-tubing going on.
 

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wow looks hightech ! ; ()- i dont remember this line in the middle of the throttlebody on oem !? whats that? - and u use a different airintake??
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
The fuel controller has a manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor in it. It uses MAP to determine how much fuel needs to be added via the added pair of injectors on the shiny intake plenum. That line connects the MAP to the intake system downstream of the throttle valve. I had to drill and tap the throttle body to add the hose barb for the MAP sensor. I also added a barb to the intake manifold for my Koso boost gauge.

Air intake: the kit comes with a small Uni filter that, to me, looks completely inadequate. I bought a Donaldson swirl canister type filter that will mount ahead of the left rear wheel. (Got a great price on the filter, but it didn't come with a mount, so maybe not so great after all.)
 

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Looking good so far sir! Anticipation is mounting for the first test rip and the stupid grin your going to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Wiring is done. What a PITA!!! And the instructions completely ignored the throttle position sensor input. Thank heavens the OEM wiring diagram labels the functions of the wires, so I was able to identify TPS status from power and sensor ground. Similar problems with the MAP "converter" - the wire colors are called out incorrectly and in one case the sensor power is flagged to be hooked up to the converter and sensor ground. I wonder if anyone has fried an ECU because they followed the written instructions and not the color picture?

I need to adapt the plumbing for the Donaldson filter and build a mount for it. Then I can reinstall the radiator and all of the plastic and try it out.
 

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Project is looking great! My head would explode!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
mine already does- but seems mr mbrandt knows wht hes doin....!! ;-))
Also, I'm retired, so I have the time to mess with stuff like this.

I just wish I had the body to go with it. After leaning over the engine from various angles in order to do all of the wiring modifications, I went to bed early with a very sore back.
 

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...what can i say- changed a sprocket seal on my KTM on saturday...need to take sunday off- knees and hands hurtin....man im 54 !?? :- ()
 

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Wiring is done. What a PITA!!! And the instructions completely ignored the throttle position sensor input. Thank heavens the OEM wiring diagram labels the functions of the wires, so I was able to identify TPS status from power and sensor ground. Similar problems with the MAP "converter" - the wire colors are called out incorrectly and in one case the sensor power is flagged to be hooked up to the converter and sensor ground. I wonder if anyone has fried an ECU because they followed the written instructions and not the color picture?

I need to adapt the plumbing for the Donaldson filter and build a mount for it. Then I can reinstall the radiator and all of the plastic and try it out.
What are you considering to manage the extra heat? I drilled holes in my plastic for better air flow. While its apart maybe look into a larger radiator or do the fan mod so one fan is always blowing? Let me know if you want some pics and I'll crawl into trailer and take some pics for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I have a second radiator on the way. I'll post about my idea, which was inspired by Sand-n-Sea, once I see if it has a chance of working.

In the meantime, I'm rather pleased with how the air filter mount turned out:
IMG_1111.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The used second radiator arrived yesterday without one of the drain plugs, which are out of stock at countrycat. I won't be able to finish the installation, but I was able to start working with the double stack of radiators, and it looks like it will work. I'm not quite sure how I'll fit a filler neck and cap, and bleeding air out of the system will certainly become more time consuming, but it looks like a guy with common tools can add a second radiator to a boosted 'cat.

I didn't take any in-process pics, but I'll document what I've done tomorrow when I get back to the project.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
We are having some good weather this weekend after a week or two way below normal, so I shelved the radiator project in hopes of going for a ride today. I finished the turbo installation yesterday and started the turbo kitty. Runs poorly and my Koso wideband says really, really lean. This is just idling and at part throttle, where the MCX stuff should not be active. MCX provides an electronic "clamp" on the stock MAP sensor, so I'll revisit that and examine my narrowband to make sure it was not damaged.

That was disappointing, but I did stab the throttle once, trusting that the Swain ceramic coatings would protect the pistons. The engine was on the rev limiter immediately. Like in a fraction of a second. So much for the suggestion from one supplier that I drive it, see how it responds and then do the clutches!

So I'm in troubleshooting mode today instead of out on a trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I'm happy to say I made good progress today. The problem was the location of the stock narrowband oxygen sensor and the use of an adapter bushing to fit the small thread sensor into a normal size bung.

I first moved the narrowband into the bung right at the turbo and saw improvement. I had noticed that the bushing partially masked the second row of ports in the sensor probe, so I chucked the bushing into the lathe and shortened the hex. Between the two changes, the 'cat now runs more like it did prior to the turbo.

I also relaxed the wastegate actuator rod. With hardly any pre-load holding the wastegate closed, I'm seeing about 6.5 psi with the boost control solenoid switched out. I'd rather that be more like 4, so I'm checking to see if there is a plug-n-play larger diaphragm.

I can't put a sustained load (even at 6.5 psi) on the engine without clutch parts. It just bounces off the rev limiter. This thing is going to be quick​ when I get it sorted.
 

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Way to go sir! but only 6.5 lbs boost will not be enough IMO as the setup is for 12. So careful you start playing with the clutch at 6.5 then turn up boost and have to reclutch. I know you know what your doing so have at and thanks for the updates.
 

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For cooling I wired the high temp fan to a switch so it would run all the time when I was really getting after it and I let the low temp fan cycle normally. That helped quite a bit but it still wasn't quite enough for a long wide open desert run. Then I added a 5" Spal fan to the oil cooler and that really helped a lot. I was running 14psi


IMG_20191006_234059185.jpg
 

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Hey CRAWLR were you always running 14lbs boost? Im only pushing 10-11lbs since I installed it but scared to push the motor to 14. did you ever get the Push kit yet?
 
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