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Discussion Starter #81
My shocks shim update is complete. I just need to test now. I'll have to wait untill it cools down, so I'll take it out this evening. I have high hopes though.
I also had to replace a rear sway bar link and the carrier bearing.
I hope that I'm done with the suspension tuning for a while. I will find out soon enough.
 

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I've done some interesting and technical work, like rebuilding a rotary engine and dealing with all of those seals, but I admire your ability and confidence to select your own shock shims. For me it would almost be guesswork, and tearing down and building up a shock is too much work for that!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Trust me when I say that I took the safe path. I only made an increase with the high speed portion of the shim stacks.

Worst case, I will ship my shocks off to shock therapy. I probably would have already done that. But they didn't answer my question about setting my shocks up for a 77 long travel vs a stock XX. They typically don't make shock updates they haven't tested. I have no desire to have them send me an untested shock update or one tested with a stock XX.

What they actually said was that I probably didn't need a shock valve update. I just think that is nuts. Apparently, the shocks magically fix bottoming out with a 77 kit. My testing says otherwise. I bottomed out so hard one day that I broke a shock bolt in the rear. I think I was running on the medium bypass setting at the time. My goal is to be able to ride with 2 people on the soft setting and have bottoming out reduced to something I think is reasonable.
 

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A shock tuner told you that your shocks don't need to be reworked? Hell has frozen over and I missed it!
 

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Discussion Starter #85
So here are the 1st results:
  1. The update made a huge difference in the following 3 areas. Running on the softest position, they made hard low speed chatter tolerable, where before it was bad enough to go out of your way to avoid it. The large whoop section was as smooth as I've ever experienced, with no bucking and a level chassis. I never came close to hitting bottom, even on some that would before. These whoops constantly change and I have seen them worse, but still big enough for the 1st test. I also never once said after a big section, that must have been close to bottom. The 3rd element that is much improved is the fast hard rebound snaps in the front. It still does it, but not with near the same force.
So far, it looks like I got really lucky. I'm no shock tunner and took my best likely safe guess.

That being said, I still need to test g-outs, trails, a full sand run, really high speed whoops (packing) and the other bypass settings. I'm looking forward to adding a passenger too.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I tested g-outs on the soft bypass setting today and it was about a 20 percent improvement. The truth is that I'd probably running on the 2nd bypass position for g-outs, maybe even the 3rd with 2 people. But I'm not testing upper bypass yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I'm not sure if I mentioned this, but I moved back from a hard compound BadAss belt to oem. The badass belt runs cooler, but it must slip. The sides looked a little glazed, but it always looked that way. I lost a lot of low end power using it.

I knew something was wrong and then I saw a shock therapy video that discribed exactly what was happening to my rig. Justin said the hard compound belts slip and rob power.

I made the change a few weeks ago and my low end power is back.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
FYI, my Zero beadlock wheels are holding their air. So I have had zero issues with my Zero's (pun intended). So far, they seem like great wheels.
 

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I'm not sure if I mentioned this, but I moved back from a hard compound BadAss belt to oem. The badass belt runs cooler, but it must slip. The sides looked a little glazed, but it always looked that way. I lost a lot of low end power using it.

I knew something was wrong and then I saw a shock therapy video that discribed exactly what was happening to my rig. Justin said the hard compound belts slip and rob power.

I made the change a few weeks ago and my low end power is back.
I found a Gates belt for 100 on Amazon Haven’t put it on yet though
 

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Sikxx18 - the 998 turbo motor has a lot of different details. The main thing is that it was built for boost, so good rods, etc and probably a lower compression ratio (I'm not all that up on the finer details of the 998T). It was a definite step up over the '18 XX motor as far as the ability to make big power with reliability. Starting in '19, the XX got better rods and I think forged pistons. In other words, it got a lot closer to the 998T motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
So here is another update. I have pounded the crap out of my suspension in whoops and large g-outs, without any axle failures. My shock update turned out pretty perfect at the zero bypass setting, when I'm driving alone. The 2nd setting is great with 2 people. The 3rd setting is useless, except maybe a flat course where being stiff helps. But all in all, I'm happy with the results.

So the great experiment seems to be working with 20 inches of travel front and rear. At some point I will find out how the axles are doing internally, when they start showing signs of wear.
 

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I love my push turbo set up you will to I am running 10 psi on pump gas with a good tune I am 200 hp to the ground
200hp to the wheels on stock internals? I thought 10 psi would push close to 200 at the crank and 150 at the wheels. I could see stock internals being ok with 150 rwh. Probably not much more unless it was the 998t.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Yes. That sounds right. I think I'm getting 155-160 or so at the wheels. But I'm doing the engine work next. I'm also looking into buying a used front dif and transaxle to send off to weddle.
 

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So, weddle with strengthen the front diff? Mine started clanging and grinding today. Would be nice to know someone who can make it bulletproof...

Also, I'm down to the turbo vs the supercharger route. I've kind of shyed away from Pro Charger just due to the price. You have Silber(Belt Driven) vs Proof (Turbo) I know you've got a proof but did you research the Silber or know anyone who's tried it on the XX?
 

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Discussion Starter #96
There are potential issues with the pro chargers being efficient (heat/intercooling (most don't intercool), belt slipping, load on the motor). There is a video by Larue where they tune the Speed procharger to about 200 rwh. But I think even that unit was traded out for a turbo. I haven't heard of one story where someone was happy with a procharger on a wildcat, including the Speed version. I always heard that they were anemic However, I believe there are many paths to the same destination. If you could keep the pulley belt from slipping and cool the boost air, it should work just fine. Changing the fuel type to ethanol would help too, since it cools so well. It just seems like most prochargers don't account for all of the extra heat from the engine and intake air, plus drag on the engine. I suspect that you could have early heat soak issues, if not accounted for. These engines are already high compression, so you don't want to inject any more heat than you have to.
There really isn't a lag argument either, since there is virtually no lag on these high revving engines with small turbos.
 

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WishforWildcatXX, the "stock internals" were improved during the 2019 model year. I've seen many references to forged connecting rods, and another that said the pistons went forged as well. What an '18 and early '19 with stock internals will make with good reliability is a lot less than what the upgraded motors will put up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Yes. It is the nature of things. I wish I had a 2020 motor, but I don't. But I'm happy for the improvements.
 

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WishforWildcatXX, the "stock internals" were improved during the 2019 model year. I've seen many references to forged connecting rods, and another that said the pistons went forged as well. What an '18 and early '19 with stock internals will make with good reliability is a lot less than what the upgraded motors will put up with.
Pistons have not changed in the Yami motors since 16 and are nice forged piece.


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