Wildcat Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I just picked up a wildcat 2013 on the cheap. Has a turbo installed. It drives way too slow max speed i can get is like 50kph (not miles, km) RPM goes up easily to 6000 but vehicle just doesn't move.

Changed the belt, oil, spark plugs. Not sure what to check next.

It has an STM clutch on it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Custom turbo setups have a lot of different options, so it is hard to give much of a diagnosis w/o knowing exactly what you have. Pictures can help, or if you know the source of the kit, give us that info. A turbo '13 that is running right should easily see over 7k rpm and 70 mph. My MCXpress setup (which for those of you reading this and thinking "I'd like a turbo", is for sale in the classifieds) used the OEM ECM for the rev limiter and I had to feather the throttle to keep from bouncing off the limiter at something more than 70 mph. I'm thinking that even if the STM is messed up, you should be making enough power to see 100kph, so I'm more inclined to think the engine/turbo has issues.

Do you have a boost gauge? If not, get one. A cheap diagnostic vac/boost gauge will suffice for now. Tee it into the line that runs to the wastegate actuator. The actuator can be attached to the turbocharger body or you may have a standalone actuator in the exhaust system upstream from the turbo. You should see positive pressure within a second or two of going wide open throttle.

Give us more to work with and I think you'll get some good help. Sand-n-Sea has a nice setup.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sand-n-Sea

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,030 Posts
You can play with the clutching a bit to raise/lower MAX RPM. You can also do the same to coordinate rpm with desired clutch engagement
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Couldn't take a clearer pic of the turbo..

The AFR gauge shows 14.2
The boost gauge seems to show no boost at all. I can hear the turbo working. But the needle barely moves when I accelerate only slight jumps but does not reach 1psi even
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I have absolutely no experience on turbo engines.. or well any engines much to be honest. But from what I read online the turbo leaking or failing is the cause of me having no power at all. Unfortunately dont have any good workshops around me that can check this
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Since you have no power, I'm thinking the boost gauge is accurate.

Three things come to mind on a turbo system that doesn't make boost:
  • A hose has blown off the piping that goes from the turbo compressor outlet (the aluminum side of the turbo) to the throttle body
  • The wastegate is stuck open
  • The turbo is worn out
A hose blowing off is not unusual. Go over all of the piping, hoses and clamps, looking for any connection that isn't tight.

Your pics didn't give me a clear idea as far as what type of wastegate your system has. Most turbos have a wastegate that is part of the iron casting:
IMG_1325.jpg
The greenish-gold can in this pic is the wastegate actuator - a diaphragm that pushes the horizontal rod, opening a flapper valve that is buried inside the iron casting. If you have this type of wastegate, check that the rod is connected to the arm that moves the flapper valve.

I'm not going to be much help on troubleshooting an external wastegate, as I've never had one. An external wastegate will be between the engine and the turbo, and it will have another exhaust pipe coming out of it that either merges back into the exhaust or has it's own tailpipe (unlikely - those are loud as hell). That extra exhaust pipe shouldn't get very hot at idle, so if you check it a few inches away from the wastegate and it is as hot as the pipe that leads to the turbo, that is a good indicator that the wastegate is open when it should be closed.

If you eliminate boost leaks and a stuck open wastegate, that really only leaves a worn out turbo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks mate just checked the turbo hoses. The big hose from turbo to intercooler if fully ripped apart. Hoping replacing that will get it fixed.

The big blue hose in the pic is what I'm talking about.


Since you have no power, I'm thinking the boost gauge is accurate.

Three things come to mind on a turbo system that doesn't make boost:
  • A hose has blown off the piping that goes from the turbo compressor outlet (the aluminum side of the turbo) to the throttle body
  • The wastegate is stuck open
  • The turbo is worn out
A hose blowing off is not unusual. Go over all of the piping, hoses and clamps, looking for any connection that isn't tight.

Your pics didn't give me a clear idea as far as what type of wastegate your system has. Most turbos have a wastegate that is part of the iron casting:
View attachment 251879
The greenish-gold can in this pic is the wastegate actuator - a diaphragm that pushes the horizontal rod, opening a flapper valve that is buried inside the iron casting. If you have this type of wastegate, check that the rod is connected to the arm that moves the flapper valve.

I'm not going to be much help on troubleshooting an external wastegate, as I've never had one. An external wastegate will be between the engine and the turbo, and it will have another exhaust pipe coming out of it that either merges back into the exhaust or has it's own tailpipe (unlikely - those are loud as hell). That extra exhaust pipe shouldn't get very hot at idle, so if you check it a few inches away from the wastegate and it is as hot as the pipe that leads to the turbo, that is a good indicator that the wastegate is open when it should be closed.

If you eliminate boost leaks and a stuck open wastegate, that really only leaves a worn out turbo.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
Hopefully the turbo provided enough volume that your engine was not breathing unfiltered air. You might want to do a compression test to see where you stand.

Although I don't know the brand well enough to comment on individual models, Haltech ECMs have traditionally been some of the best. If the rest of the turbo installation is as good, you should have a great setup once you get caught up with all of the maintenance/repair stuff.

Put really good oil in the diff - once you get your machine ripping, that little TonkaToy diff is going to be under a lot of stress.
 
  • Like
Reactions: izom

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok so turbo hose is changed the turbo gauge shows boost building up now. I tested the vehicle in my building basement car park.. approx 70m straight stretch.. the boost builds up slowly but atleast its better than before. But have a new issue. Seems the engine is misfiring now. Attaching a video showing how it sounds like. It has new sparkplugs on so dont think its that.. unless its the ignition coils will have to check that I guess or could the ECU do this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #14

Seems I can't attach videos on the website. Adding it to wetransfer hope someone will be able to take a look at it. If theres some way to attach videos on the forum please let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Another update. I kept the engine running and pulled of the spark plug wires 1 by 1.. both were sparking when pulled off. But when I pulled the 1 at the back the engine shut off in a few seconds
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
So the back cylinder is doing most of the work - now it is time to figure out why.

It is unlikely that the ECM is making it misfire. The computer either works, or it doesn't. You could swap the coils and see if the misfire follows the coil swap.

If the misfire doesn't move, or if the engine still dies when you remove the rear plug wire, I would pull the plastics off and set valve lash next. There are some good threads on the subject in the forum. They may also have ideas on dealing with the small (very small) square head on the adjusters. A square drive wood screw will fit, though I don't recall what drive size. If you can braze or has a buddy that can, you can braze a handle onto the wood screw. Or buy a screw long enough to bend it like an allen wrench and screw on a small piece of wood dowel for a comfortable handle.

After setting the valve lash, I would check the compression. That will tell you if the valves and piston rings are sealing correctly. There are plenty of articles online about how to do a compression test, so I won't bother repeating the critical steps in detail (fully charged battery, hold the throttle open, etc)

Don't get discouraged - once you figure it all out and correct the issues, you will have an awesome machine.

PS - If you haven't found a factory service manual yet, go to the countrycat.com website. Find the "Technical Information" option at the top right and follow the prompts. You can use it online, but most of us like having it downloaded. IIRC, downloading the manual is not easy to figure out. Windows usually has a PDF printer option that you can use to "print" the manual to a PDF file on your computer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
A follow-up thought: a properly adjusted ECM is unlikely to make the ignition misfire. Your Haltech probably has an adjustable dwell setting, and if someone has screwed with that, it is possible that the coils aren't building enough energy. This is highly, highly unlikely, but possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Update.. changed the ignition coils around. Still the same issue. The engine cuts out when I remove the back wire.

Then tried switching the sparkplugs back to front. Still the same. Surprisingly the sparkplugs are brand new but covered in black carbon at the tips. I've barely driven after the new plugs except to test it in between all the changes.

I have NGK CR9IX plugs on now the vehicle came with CR9EB plugs.. changed to IX based on the shopkeepers recommendation.. could this be the reason? Should I go back to CR9EB? or the original CPR8EB
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,821 Posts
I wouldn't worry about the difference in plugs until you have figured out why the front cylinder is weak.

Harbor Freight has cheap compression testers, or you could probably borrow one from an Autozone or similar. You could chase your tail for quite awhile trying this or that. It is time to check the mechanical health of that front cylinder.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top