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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well a few asked about a thread detailing the modification of the oem muffler so since i had time here it is.

Step 1: Cut can and remove the guts, lay the fiberglass mat aside for reuse.
2.JPG

Step 2: Remove mesh and cut out cat (largest pipe), i also removed a section of the exit pipe so muffler is free flowing. Your choice if you remove both.
3.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Step 3: I installed a bar for bracing and also a metal tab to secure all 4 pipes and prevent vibration down the road, not necessary if you only remove cat
4.JPG

Step 4: Reinstall mesh and tack weld
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Step 5: Wrap with fiberglass that was removed and tape in place to make it easy to install. Looks like AC used regular tape which burned away later, i used foil tape because it was what i had on hand.
6.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Step 6: Put all back together making sure you dont get the fiberglass mat bunched up. Make sure exit pipe mates with the exit hole in the outer can. Now your ready to weld.
7.JPG

Step 7: Clean up welds and apply high heat paint. Since im just experimenting i didnt bother cleaning and painting the whole thing.
8.JPG
 

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Drock you beat me to it! Lol I was just looking at my muffler and thinking about cutting it open... very nice write up man! How does it sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Results. Havent run the stock exhaust in a long time so ill compare it to my TD competition exhaust. At idle the modifed stock is a fair bit quieter, almost as quiet as i remembered it being when i got the trail. On the throttle and wot is sounds more raspy than the TD exhaust almost like a tuner type sound, more dirt bike than utv. It doesnt seem any louder than the TD exhaust however i did notice a slight loss of throttle response in comparison. Still in my opinion it sounds better than the stock unit and performs better. If you just looking to rid yourself of the cat then you cant lose.
 

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Great write-up! Now tell us how it sounds, if any change, and how the heat has changed.

What did you use to make the first cut? Was there just weld tacks to cut through?

Wish I was a welder and had a welding machine.

EDIT:
Oops, I was writing at the same time you were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Like i said i cant compare to the stock because its been a while since i ran it but at idle it is still pretty quiet, not much change. Seems louder and more raspy than the stock was, doesnt sound like bumble bees, maybe a big bad ass pissed off bumble bee. Not sure on the heat, i just put it on to listen to it and did a quick run around the yard.

I used a hacksaw and hand cut the whole way around. I wanted a fine clean cut so it went back together nice and didnt leave a large gap to burn through when attempting to weld it. Mesh is also tack welded and you will need to cut around the tacks to get it off.
 

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Great write up. I am hoping to get to this asap.
 

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i just did this to mine a few weeks ago...there is really no sound diffrence other then at idle...i followed the last post about this i think Drock posted this before i dont remeber..the most improvement ive noticed after doing this is the motor runs alot cooler and seems to get it a quicker throttle response...Drock's right up is spot on just follow his steps and its easy
 

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Awesome write up Drock. I knew you would get it done soon! Now time to find a buddy to do mine!
 

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I knew you'd be the best one to do this. That's a nice write up with pictures and the step by step makes it easy to follow. You'll want to change one of the step 6's to a step 7. :) I always wanted to see what it looked like inside. Can you tell what the convertor is made of? Could a person just take the muffler off and knock it out? I would worry about getting a piece of it inside that mesh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I dont think its a good idea to try and knock it out. On both ends of the converter the pipe tapers in slightly so it is larger than the actual pipes leading in and out. You can knock it out bit by bit but youd be there a while. Not sure what its made of but it seems harder than i thought it would be. If you had a hole saw the same diameter as the pipe and a long bit you could drill it out. I thought about trying to beat it out when i had it cut open but decided it was more work than i was willing to do. If you did attempt to beat it out without taking the muffler apart you would have to be careful you didnt get the material up in the end of the muffler because youd never get it out and it would rattle like a can full of marbles. I was worried about vibration making annoying noises, thats why i used a rod to brace everything and a gusset to join all 4 pipes at the cut. It took me a little over an hour from start to finish. Longest part was cutting the can by hand with a hack saw.
 

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Nice job DRock... Not that I want any more sound output, but that will substanially reduce heat and the reduction in back-pressure will help build a little more torque. As soon as it's out of warranty, I will be moving along these lines with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Id cut it anyway, they cant see in there. Just need some clean welds to hide the work.
 

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I drilled mine out using a ⅜drill bit what ever it is it is extremely hard I toasted my bit. Got it all out but completely ruined bit. Was drilling as I would drill steel and still made the bit glow cherry red
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I hit pretty hard with a flat top screwdriver and barely made a dent, surprisingly hard
 

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Is it ceramic? Looks like metal.
 
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