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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was in the process of removing my clutches when i found a large oil leak behind secondary clutches.
is this the recall oil leak?

the main reason i was taking off my clutches were they were not acting right, from stop on hard throttle, it would take off like normal for a few seconds and then seem to shift out to high causing low rpms and slow accelleration.

i took it to jones offroad, yesterday, the lead mechanic was rude and short with me and seemed he did not want anything to do with helping me. so i took it back home and proceeded to do it myself.

this is what i found. now, i am reluctant to take it back to the dealer, as he said "we dont have a arctic cat mechanic and i dont know if i have the tools to remove the clutch". i tried to explain, its only 2 sockets, no extra tools needed. IMAG0035.jpg i asked about the recall and was put off again, he went to answer the phone and the left the building leaving me in the building, never said a word. totally depressed, i just went home. i need answers but dont know who to call?
 

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I dont think its the recall leak. Did you have any oil residue in you clutch housing? ?? Thats what the recall was for. The leak u have looks to me to be the lower case seal leaking. Also check your front oil cooler line on the passenger side make sure its not kinked if it is that is what caused the whole problem. It kinked and oil pressure got to high in the case wich causes seals to fail
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well, i got a phone call from the owner of jones offroad late tonight, full of apologies, and promises to take care of me personally. taking my cat in monday for warranty repair work to fix oil leak. (yes, they are open on mondays) so i take back any bad stuff i said about the company, as steve jones is a stand up guy.,,,now if only i can get the mechanic to cheer up! lol feeling alot better now. i have no kinks in oil line, i have been watching for them. though i havent fastened them up to make sure, but that will be on my to do list now. hopefully, it wont take 2 months to get this fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no oil in belt housing, just tons of large flakey belt dust, though the belt looks like new, with 865 miles on the factory belt
 

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Pawnman, red's machine is leaking from the place from day one. Our dealer said he seen several like this some worse than others. it is a warranty fix as you stated. Your low rpm is caused from all the dust collecting in the secondary and primary. I know you ride in the sand too which does not do it any good either. The air intake to clutch need an outter ware on it. Red and I have the same problems about every 20 hrs or so. We have taken off the cover and sprayed brake/carb cleaner all over and in the pulleys. Seems to work with out removing the pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
why didnt red get his leak fixed? did the wcd void warranty? i was trying to change a belt, when i went that far i said the heck with it and decided to do the wcd when i removed the belt housing, thats when i discovered the oil leak, its not a horrible leak, yet, i prefer not to have any leaks.
 

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Red has been waiting until it got to hot to ride. Which seems to be now..107 at the dunes this weekend. No warranty problems with Wcd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
update: my dealer just called me about my oil leak, they had pulled the engine and removed lower (pan)? and started back putting it together, the mechanic desided to put a flat edge on the pan to make sure it wasnt warped, after further inspection, he found a crack in the case,

arctic cat is sending me a brand new engine, i had 735 miles, i was told this was an updated engine, and apparently this has happened to several other engine cases. so, not sure if i am glad or mad? i guess a brand new engine w/zero wear is cool, but i have 2 more weeks of waiting,
i guess i will spend my time on the lake with my new to me, 06 seadoo speedster wake 430hp:cool:
 

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This is the main reason I don't think beefing the rest of the drivetrain will work for me cause I think the bevel gears will just bust the engine case.
 

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update: my dealer just called me about my oil leak, they had pulled the engine and removed lower (pan)? and started back putting it together, the mechanic desided to put a flat edge on the pan to make sure it wasnt warped, after further inspection, he found a crack in the case,

arctic cat is sending me a brand new engine, i had 735 miles, i was told this was an updated engine, and apparently this has happened to several other engine cases. so, not sure if i am glad or mad? i guess a brand new engine w/zero wear is cool, but i have 2 more weeks of waiting,
i guess i will spend my time on the lake with my new to me, 06 seadoo speedster wake 430hp:cool:

Same thing here... had oil leak on front of lower pan, dealer removed and re-sealed... a few miles later MAJOR oil leak behind secondary... Dealer mentioned the machining did not look good...maybe a bad batch.... At any rate, I am also awaiting a new motor. I only had 350 miles on the first...
 

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This is the main reason I don't think beefing the rest of the drivetrain will work for me cause I think the bevel gears will just bust the engine case.
TX- Do you see any solution for this other than to reengineer the engine? Can the gears simply be replaced? I haven't seen the engine yet so I can't get a good idea of the problem.
 

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Hi guys, New to this site but I'm also on **************** too.
I'll answer to a few statements before this gets out of hand.
The bevel gears are not a problem on these engines like they were on the 650H1 and 700H1 engines. Those were beveled gears. These have straight cut gears and do not push/pull on the output shaft, therefore no problem with the gears.
The service bulletin will correct a few items based on the vin range. The main reason for the bulletin is to remove the two dowel pins on the centrifugal clutch cover where it meets the crankcase. The cover was not machined enough where the pins are and creates a gap. The bulletin replaced these pins with ones that are 3mm shorter. The screws that hold the cover also had a change in the torque spec to 10 ft/lbs from 8 ft/lbs.
The bulletin also states to clean the inner clutch covers and clutch sheaves. This is because there is too much grease in the outer cover bearing during assembly. The problem is that when the cover is installed onto the drum shaft, the grease will displace and when those clutches are spinning at 10000 rpm, the grease gets everywhere, including the clutch faces. This causes belt slipping and results in a belt that will explode into several small pieces.
The engine case leak is another concern. The output shaft area is not tight enough and as a result, oil passes by.
Hope this clarifies things.
Cheers
 

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Forgot to mention the rest of the bulletin stuff.
Secure the right side oil line and to inspect the wiring harness for possible contact with the driveshaft. The harness location is under the console - between the seats. That one has a certain vin# range. Sorry, dont know the vin range. Gotta check with the dealer.
 
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