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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One piece crank would be the ticket. The stock crank is so heavy it would make a great boat anchor. A new solid one would be a lot less weight. To put one in would you have to take the whole engine apart and how long would it take to do.
 

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I haven't seen a WC crank yet or held it in my hands Don't know if its one pc or not....but a new crank made with the wet clutch delete would be the ticket, might as well "stroke it" to a real 1000cc as well!! :D

Does anyone know if this is a single throw crank or is it a dual pin crank? Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have one out of a prowler and it looks just rabbits pics. It is heavvvvy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don't have any pics. Right now get tomorrow. Hear is rabbits. IMG_0558.jpg
 

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I haven't seen a WC crank yet or held it in my hands Don't know if its one pc or not....but a new crank made with the wet clutch delete would be the ticket, might as well "stroke it" to a real 1000cc as well!! :D

Does anyone know if this is a single throw crank or is it a dual pin crank? Just curious.
Single throw.

Wildcat crank.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you no if you have to take the whole engine apart to put a new crank in
 

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I'd find out what oil pressure the engine makes, dry sump ? , scavenge ? , capacity ? , clearance ?

By looking at the pic. It's a roller bearing set up. Most don't require much oil pressure nor volume.
A one piece crank would require a two piece rod. With a tin type bearing. Requiring both oil pressure and volume.

Beside removing mass will affect balance and performance.
 

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I'd find out what oil pressure the engine makes, dry sump ? , scavenge ? , capacity ? , clearance ?By looking at the pic. It's a roller bearing set up. Most don't require much oil pressure nor volume. A one piece crank would require a two piece rod. With a tin type bearing. Requiring both oil pressure and volume.Beside removing mass will affect balance and performance.
Not necessarily true. Some outboard boat motors are roller bearing one piece cranks with 2 piece roller bearings on the rods. Thats a relatively high hp high rpm multi cylinder 2 stroke and they are very reliable.
 

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its a roller bearing setup, weighs 24lbs, single throw pinned 3 piece crank.

i am having the complete outer half of the crank built, one piece with a stubbed end so it will resemble a polaris, can-am, and other snow mobile cranks. this stubbed (tapered crank) will allow the CVtech clutch to bolt up directly. the crank will have to be un-pinned, repressed together and welded and will then resemble the factory crank, but just have a tapered end rather than splined end. for the big HP guys, this will be the big hot ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
its a roller bearing setup, weighs 24lbs, single throw pinned 3 piece crank.

I am having the complete outer half of the crank built, one piece with a stubbed end so it will resemble a polaris, can-am, and other snow mobile cranks. This stubbed (tapered crank) will allow the cvtech clutch to bolt up directly. The crank will have to be un-pinned, repressed together and welded and will then resemble the factory crank, but just have a tapered end rather than splined end. For the big hp guys, this will be the big hot ticket.
doing that would be less wieght. You would not have the wcd then
 

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the crank is as heavy as it is to help keep the engine rolling at idle. being a single pin crank, it takes alot of counter balance weight to keep the engine rolling thru its long stroke. can-am crank is alot lighter, but a can-am will not idle without a clutch bolted up. can-ams use their clutch as the counterweight to keep the engine rolling at idle. thats why all can-ams have a solid steel inner fixed sheave of the clutch and their primary weighs 13lbs. this is to help keep the engine rolling at idle. arctic cat built the extra weight into the crank, and you can crank an arctic cat with no primary bolted up and it runs like a sewing machine.

also, i have measured this crank before, ten ways to sunday. we have enough room, and enough counter balance, to stroke this engine up to 16mm with no clearance or idling issues. can it be done? yes. i have thought about it time and time again, but have not brought myself to draw it up in solidworks and see about having the crank built. scared of the price tag that will come along with it. i am still a small guy, just working in a small shop by myself doing something that was a hobby, and has now turned into a 100 hour a week business. i dont have the time or man power to be a big performance shop, but if someone had the money and need, i would definitely draw this crank up and have it built. i have numerous friends that have wicked CNC machines that could have a crank spit out within a week, but with the small market, and lack of personal funds, i would not be able to take on that project alone with my budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sound like it would be easier to do what you talked about doing first and just go a head and put the snowmobile engine in it . Haha
 

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Not necessarily true. Some outboard boat motors are roller bearing one piece cranks with 2 piece roller bearings on the rods. Thats a relatively high hp high rpm multi cylinder 2 stroke and they are very reliable.
Not an easy match up. We did some R&D with 2 piece radial needle bearings on a different build. Had to make the parts to fit the bearings. Was really $$$ and never proved to be any better then the factory set up.
To get the correct size bearing the order was between 5000-10000 piece minimum. It's on the shelf and on to plan D.

the crank is as heavy as it is to help keep the engine rolling at idle. being a single pin crank, it takes alot of counter balance weight to keep the engine rolling thru its long stroke. can-am crank is alot lighter, but a can-am will not idle without a clutch bolted up. can-ams use their clutch as the counterweight to keep the engine rolling at idle. thats why all can-ams have a solid steel inner fixed sheave of the clutch and their primary weighs 13lbs. this is to help keep the engine rolling at idle. arctic cat built the extra weight into the crank, and you can crank an arctic cat with no primary bolted up and it runs like a sewing machine.

also, i have measured this crank before, ten ways to sunday. we have enough room, and enough counter balance, to stroke this engine up to 16mm with no clearance or idling issues. can it be done? yes. i have thought about it time and time again, but have not brought myself to draw it up in solidworks and see about having the crank built. scared of the price tag that will come along with it. i am still a small guy, just working in a small shop by myself doing something that was a hobby, and has now turned into a 100 hour a week business. i dont have the time or man power to be a big performance shop, but if someone had the money and need, i would definitely draw this crank up and have it built. i have numerous friends that have wicked CNC machines that could have a crank spit out within a week, but with the small market, and lack of personal funds, i would not be able to take on that project alone with my budget.
Really like how you think keep up the good work. R&D is never an easy thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fixing to put a one piece crank in the kitten
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just hope it back together before brimstone the end of may.
 

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The1100 cc big bore kits we have heard about in the works Are they suppose to be doing it by enlarging the clinder walls and installing larger pistions only? Or are they changing the crank also to increase the stroke and get part of the larger cc's that way? If you are changing the crank are you keeping the original stroke?

JB
 
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