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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, he didn't tell me but he told my friend. I'm helping him to make his WC go better in The sand. I suggested a clutch kit and when he called the dealer looking for an aftermarket one, the guy told him to remove two rollers from his clutch so it would only have 4, instead of 6. Has anyone eve tried this? Is this common? The guy just said to make sure we remove opposing rollers to keep the balance on the clutch.... I have my friend coming over to do this now, so Let me know as soon as soon as possible. Thanks in advance.
 

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I removed 2 rollers from my Wildcat's primary. Has worked very well for me along with clocking the secondary to C1. RPM's instantly go to 6900 and backshift is pretty dang good.
 

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I removed 2 rollers from my Wildcat's primary. Has worked very well for me along with clocking the secondary to C1. RPM's instantly go to 6900 and backshift is pretty dang good.


Now how the heck did you figure that out when all of the clutch experts with 35 years of experience couldn't figure it out?
 

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I have mine done the same way, 2 rollers out and C1 clocked. This is equal to having eight 21 gram rollers. The backshift is great and as stated above it jumps right to around 7000 rpm. I am adding a little bit more weight though because it stays in too low a gear too long down low. The reason you can remove a couple weights and not affect balance is because the layout of the primary weights is symmetrical.
 

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How did you do that without putting it in an unbalanced condition?
There's an even number of rollers in there (8 if I remember right...) so as long as you remove 2 rollers 180 degrees apart, the balance is not thrown off. Ultimately I want to fine tune the clutch by measuring the weight of the 2 removed rollers and then drilling all of the rollers to reduce their combined weight by that amount (maybe a little more to get it closer to 7000 RPM) and put them all back in. Just haven't had the time yet.
 

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Now how the heck did you figure that out when all of the clutch experts with 35 years of experience couldn't figure it out?
Well, I'm not saying it's perfect.. or even the right way to do it but it works good for me!!! Plus the price was right.... FREE.99!!!!
 

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This is interesting. I started messing with the stock clutching. I reclocked my secondary to A1 if I recall correctly...I know it was the next step from stock...After I did that, I was able to power slide on asphalt. Could I put my rollers in a Lethe and cut some material out of the center? Now, does this Stuuf reduce top speed? Reclocking seemed to reduce it by a few MPH.
 

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Don't know for sure about top speed... I've never gone faster than 68 (speedo) in mine and it was still pulling. Does bounce off rev limit at about 38 in low range tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, so I took his bike for a ride before I did it. RPM was around 5500-6400 (highest). It felt like it was in sand the whole way and wouldn't spin tires at all under pretty much any condition. So I pulled apart and pulled out the two heaviest rollers at 28.4, & 28.5 grams each. The rest were between 27.9-28.2. I cleaned the sheaves and noticed a lot of black marking from overheated belt. Obviously his clutch was not tuned right (not sure if it is now either). So I cleaned the sheaves, rollers, and dampers (which two were cracked). I instructed him to buy new dampers and we will put them in next week after this weekend ride. Next I buttoned her up and took her for a ride. It was like a new bike. It went right to 6900-7200 the entire way. Seemed to engage must quicker and feel responsive. He also was very happy with the results. I had no idea I could 'clock' the secondary and will have to research how one does that. If anyone could tell me how or refer me to a post I would be most appreciative. Also what is stock redline? I'd like to see if we can get it as close as possible to that and might consider lightening up some of the rollers too. I have to say for a free change I can't believe everyone isn't on this forum talking about the free roller mod....
 

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Ok, so I took his bike for a ride before I did it. RPM was around 5500-6400 (highest). It felt like it was in sand the whole way and wouldn't spin tires at all under pretty much any condition. So I pulled apart and pulled out the two heaviest rollers at 28.4, & 28.5 grams each. The rest were between 27.9-28.2. I cleaned the sheaves and noticed a lot of black marking from overheated belt. Obviously his clutch was not tuned right (not sure if it is now either). So I cleaned the sheaves, rollers, and dampers (which two were cracked). I instructed him to buy new dampers and we will put them in next week after this weekend ride. Next I buttoned her up and took her for a ride. It was like a new bike. It went right to 6900-7200 the entire way. Seemed to engage must quicker and feel responsive. He also was very happy with the results. I had no idea I could 'clock' the secondary and will have to research how one does that. If anyone could tell me how or refer me to a post I would be most appreciative. Also what is stock redline? I'd like to see if we can get it as close as possible to that and might consider lightening up some of the rollers too. I have to say for a free change I can't believe everyone isn't on this forum talking about the free roller mod....


I'm surprised too! I would have thought our buddy from TX would have shared his knowledge!!

I've been told that 6900 rpm is the power peak for this engine, so going any higher than that isn't really helping much. However, if one had done any performance mods (bigger valves, bigger cams, headwork, etc) then a higher redline might help out.

Check Youtube for a video from Airdam on how to clock the secondary clutch.
 

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September 2011 -- Arctic Cat Engineer testing in Utah. They told me they removed 2 rollers from the primary. They indicated that was the thing to do for sand. Sad part is they still "SMOKED" belts. They even showed me how and where the rollers were when they were replacing the belt.
 

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I'm surprised too! I would have thought our buddy from TX would have shared his knowledge!!

I've been told that 6900 rpm is the power peak for this engine, so going any higher than that isn't really helping much. However, if one had done any performance mods (bigger valves, bigger cams, headwork, etc) then a higher redline might help out.

Check Youtube for a video from Airdam on how to clock the secondary clutch.
It just never really came up. I do like the setup but I am still tinkering with it. It gets on power right away though. You can see in this video where the other Wildcat gets a considerable jump on me but mine gets right up on power right away and totally stops his pull and I even begin to pull but I let out so as not to throw rocks on him:

 

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September 2011 -- Arctic Cat Engineer testing in Utah. They told me they removed 2 rollers from the primary. They indicated that was the thing to do for sand. Sad part is they still "SMOKED" belts. They even showed me how and where the rollers were when they were replacing the belt.
I would think taking weight out of the primary would smoke the belt faster. The weight puts more clamping force on the sheaves and the belt keeping it from slipping. I am not an expert on this clutch but that's my opinion. Keep the rpm's up as well and you will have less belt slip and less belt slip equals less heat build up. Belt slip is what is burning these belts up.
 

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I got a complete new engine after my oil leak. Since i have this engine when i floor the pedal my RPM goes straight up to 6900 7000 RPM and stays there. I didn't change anything in the clutch. Does articcat changer someting in the new cluches. Its way better than the one i had before.
 

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I would think taking weight out of the primary would smoke the belt faster. The weight puts more clamping force on the sheaves and the belt keeping it from slipping. I am not an expert on this clutch but that's my opinion. Keep the rpm's up as well and you will have less belt slip and less belt slip equals less heat build up. Belt slip is what is burning these belts up.
They might have went back to the XTZ secondary with a different helix angle and a softer spring. This would allow less roller weight in the primary but i am not sure what they did.
 
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