[Dunerking]

While I’ve got the transaxle at Weddle,I’m cleaning up the car and added a few things. One I’m trying to add is a Dome light. I bought a Baja Design dome light and and wanted to get a rocker switch that will plug up to one of the factory connectors behind the dash. I bought a dome light rocker switch from Kemimoto but tried to plug it into the one of factory (acc sw B3)but the prongs on the back of the Kemimoto switch were slightly different and wouldn’t plug in. Is there a certain type of rocker switch I need to use? Thanks

 

[mbrandt1402]

The connections are for Carling or Carling knock-offs. Everything I've bought that said "Carling style" has worked. Lots of options on Amazon.

 

[Dunerking]

The switch I got looks like it should work but has a plastic post (looks like could cut it off) and fits perfect in the dash. I didn’t see anything about Carling on it though.

 

[Dunerking]

 

[Kurt968]

View attachment 252300

I have a few of those rockers. Yeah, all you have to do is cut that plastic pin off and they work just fine.

 

[Dunerking]

I have a few of those rockers. Yeah, all you have to do is cut that plastic pin off and they work just fine.

Great! Thanks Kurt for confirming fitment! I’d rather not just donate a new switch to find out it won’t work. Going to get some fuses and wire and finish tightening/cleaning up all of the accessory wiring while I have this car apart. Going to install the rear shock gussets and Speed water pump kit as well. Hope to have it back together for President trip!

 

[Kurt968]

Great! Thanks Kurt for confirming fitment! I’d rather not just donate a new switch to find out it won’t work. Going to get some fuses and wire and finish tightening/cleaning up all of the accessory wiring while I have this car apart. Going to install the rear shock gussets and Speed water pump kit as well. Hope to have it back together for President trip!

No worries. I also have the speed water pump. Didn't have any issues prior to installing it, just did it as a preventative measure. It wasn't too hard. Only tool you need is the primary puller.

 

[Dunerking]

No worries. I also have the speed water pump. Didn't have any issues prior to installing it, just did it as a preventative measure. It wasn't too hard. Only tool you need is the primary puller.

Same here about the Speed WP...no issues currently but figured while having the transaxle,secondary,and primary clutches removed that it’s a good time to install. Was also going to make my own coolant bleeder kit (similar to the Speedwerx kit). Thanks again!

 

[Kurt968]

I thought about doing that as well but decided against it bc I didn’t want to create a potential leak through a chaffed or leaking hose so I got this. Works perfectly. Just tap it now and then to vent your system. Fittings 1-8 NPT Push Button Bleeder Valve - Air Fittings 1-8 NPT Push Button Bleeder Valve - Air - - Amazon.com

 

[Dunerking]

What did you tap so you can install that bleeder?

 

[Kurt968]

Nothing. It’s a direct replacement for the plug that is by your oil tank.

 

[Dunerking]

That’s rad! I hate asking but would you post a pic of the exact plug? And the link for the bleeder is the exact one you used? Thanks

 

[Kurt968]

That’s rad! I hate asking but would you post a pic of the exact plug? And the link for the bleeder is the exact one you used? Thanks

I don't have a pic but you can see exactly where it is in the service manual that is posted on the sticky board of this forum. Look at page 70.

 

[Dunerking]

Is this the plug (I’m pointing at) you are referring to?

 

[Kurt968]

Lol. Nope. That is the oil drain. This is the coolant system bleed plug to the right of the tank

 

[Dunerking]

Thanks for the pic...I was going to post this pic earlier. So you just swapped the plug for the bleeder? Nice!

 

[mbrandt1402]

I've used push-button bleeders on my race cars forever. I can't find the exact valves that I have, but there are plenty of similar ones. Mine have been ultra reliable in addition to convenient!

 

[Dunerking]

How often would you hit the bleeder?

 

[mbrandt1402]

After I had the system completely free of air, my routine was to warm up the car for the first session of the weekend and hit the radiator bleeder as soon as I thought it was warm enough to have pressure in the system (2 or 3 minutes). If any air came out, I would bleed until I got coolant, then repeat the process before each track session until it bled coolant immediately. That rarely took more than one session. I would repeat the process the next race weekend, and it was almost always free of air first check.

The layout was mid-engine, front radiator with bleeder ~14" off the pavement, coolant pipes about 3" above the pavement, and cylinder head about 30". I had a small header tank with a dual seal radiator cap sitting about 3" above the cylinder head, and an expansion/recovery tank maybe 6" below the cap and about 24" off to the side. Once I was convinced I had all of the air out of the system, I would just check the coolant level in the expansion tank when I came off the track (typically 2/3rds) and again when it was stone-cold to make sure there was coolant in it, meaning it had not sucked any air back into the header tank.

On an XX, I would probably operate the bleeder every time I used the XX until I built up confidence that the system was working properly. If the pump cavitates as speculated, there might constantly be air in the system. If I found that to be the case, I would install an electric water pump and gut the Yamaha pump.