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Anyone using this kit? Their description makes sense, however 60 bucks for a piece of tubing and 2 fittings seems excessive. I mean, I get it, it's not all about just the material but the engineering that went into it and I guess that's part of what your paying for, just hard for me to justify when I think I could put that stuff together for less than half that. Only problem is I don't know where those hoses and fittings tie in.
 

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theres a guy on the wildcat riders FB group did his own, cost him close to $50 for material.. got my kits yesterday, after looking em over, Ill buy the kit instead of trying to save a couple bucks..
 

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after doing my water pump and bleeding it throughly i saw that the bleed kit is not nessecary. just pop the hose off of the water pump and let it flow until its steady and then pop the hose back on. save 60$. you should only have to do it once. unless you are draining your antifreeze often.
 

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About $30 and no shipping
 

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I did my own version of the speedworx bleed kit, super easy 30-45min job approx $50.
Two 1/4" barbed TEEs, 10ft of 1/4" heater hose, 6 hose clamps.
(2) Gates 1/4 Inch Tee (T) Hose Connector # 28631 $3.30ea
(1) 10ft 1/4"ID heater hose (up to $30)
(6) hose clamps (up to $2ea) $12

Easy install.
1. cut line at tank, install tee, connect end of new hose
2. run heater hose thru tunnel on passenger side to passenger side of engine
3. remove bed, find the heater hose line at top of head (just behind injector), cut line, install tee, connect end of new hose
4. check fluid level and run engine to temp, look for leaks, fill reservoir as needed
 

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We did a frame swap a few weeks ago and added the bleed line to the front. When we added the coolant to a totally dry system it self bled and then purged all the air out as soon as we started it. I'd say it is worth it. After seeing how well it worked I came home and added it to my XX too.

The thing to consider is you may not have any air in the system and you have nothing to worry about, so you might assume you don't need it. As long as no air gets trapped you will be fine. But if for some reason you have to disconnect a line or you get it hot enough to boil over a little then you are screwed. It's more of an insurance policy. When you need it, you are going to be glad you have it. BTW, we did our own. Brass 1/8"NPT to 5/16 barb, brass 5/16 tee, 12 feet of 5/16 hose, and some hose clamps. Easy insurance
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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I did my own version of the speedworx bleed kit, super easy 30-45min job approx $50.
Two 1/4" barbed TEEs, 10ft of 1/4" heater hose, 6 hose clamps.
(2) Gates 1/4 Inch Tee (T) Hose Connector # 28631 $3.30ea
(1) 10ft 1/4"ID heater hose (up to $30)
(6) hose clamps (up to $2ea) $12

Easy install.
1. cut line at tank, install tee, connect end of new hose
2. run heater hose thru tunnel on passenger side to passenger side of engine
3. remove bed, find the heater hose line at top of head (just behind injector), cut line, install tee, connect end of new hose
4. check fluid level and run engine to temp, look for leaks, fill reservoir as needed
I’m going to do this while I’m deep in my other project with the transaxle. Can you post a picture of where you cut the hose near the tank (step 1)? Thanks
 

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I had to add coolant and bleed the system today, which got me to thinking about this thread. Personally, I would rather make the process of manually bleeding the system easy enough to do whenever the mood strikes, instead of making it automatic. I want to know if there is air accumulating in the engine's coolant passages - something is wrong if it is a routine thing. When we get home from our winter trip, I'll install a push-button relief valve in place of the OEM plug, install a longer hose and mount the bleed valve somewhere more easily accessed. Start the XX, let it warm up a minute to build pressure, then press the relief button. If air routinely escapes, there is something "off" in the system.

My roadracing car has a very similar layout - the cylinder head was about 30" off the ground, the coolant lines to the front-mounted radiator were about 4" off the ground, and the top of the radiator end tanks were about 12" off the ground. I mounted a push-button relief valve (rated to 200 psi) in the top of one of the radiator end tanks. Never had a problem in many years of racing.

I'm wondering if the mechanical water pump routinely cavitates. The automatic bleed would correct this, but also mask it. I'd rather know it was happening, and address the root cause with an electric water pump.
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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I feel many of us would be interested in what you find out.
 

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Seems to me that a lot of water pumps have been sacrificed while "experimenting" with different options. Speed finally came up with a really awesome impeller design that can handle the shock of cavitation but it's still not curing the problem. Speed also had a push button bleeder on the line that they checked regularly. But running flat out across a drylake for miles would cause steam pockets. This line seems to cure the problem. Speedwerx has had great luck with it. You will never know if another option works until it fails. Then it's too late
 

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Good point about the auto bleed helping, but I would rather END the cavitation than band-aid it. Those steam pockets are almost assuredly causing hot-spots in the combustion chambers, and that leads to detonation.

If there is enough radiator, an EWP will never cavitate.
 

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after doing my water pump and bleeding it throughly i saw that the bleed kit is not nessecary. just pop the hose off of the water pump and let it flow until its steady and then pop the hose back on. save 60$. you should only have to do it once. unless you are draining your antifreeze often.
Hi , I just changed my water pump yesterday . The original was definitely shot. I got the new one installed and still having problems with circulation. Tried to bleed it with elevating the front end and that didn’t help. Seems to be not circulating through the rad as the hoses are cool. Engine heats up quick. Do you think this is air locked ?
 

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You didn't mention opening the coolant bleed located next to the oil tank. That one is critical in a stock XX cooling system.
 

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2018 XX with Speed 77” kit tuned by ST. Speedwerx Extreminator motor/clutch.Simpson seats & belts
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Hi , I just changed my water pump yesterday . The original was definitely shot. I got the new one installed and still having problems with circulation. Tried to bleed it with elevating the front end and that didn’t help. Seems to be not circulating through the rad as the hoses are cool. Engine heats up quick. Do you think this is air locked ?
Did you go with a stock/OEM replacement or did you go aftermarket like Speed or a EWP?
 

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I think you should pop the small hose off the water pump and let the engine run until antifreeze flows steady out of there. Thats what i did and it worked great. After that i just kept running the engine and toping up my rad many times and i havent had an issue
 

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I'm wondering why disconnecting the small hose off the water pump worked for TimHorton. That hose runs over to the coolant outlet pipe on the passenger side of the engine. The bleed hose connects to the same pipe, just 2 inches downstream. Seems like leaving the bleed plug out would have the same effect.

If you could get to that hose without pulling the clutch cover, I'd say go for it. With all of the work you have to do to get to it, I think I would just be patient.

I'm working on a different solution. Should have results in a week.
 

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I have an easier solution. Just replace the vent plug with a 1/8 NPT push button bleeder valve. I bought mine on Amazon but it is currently not available so I can't show you a link to it. But here is one that is similar so you get the idea. I put mine in last November and have had no issues with it leaking. Every now and then if you think it may need to be vented (which it shouldn't) just give it a quick press and you're done. I was going to install my own version of the Speedwerx trick by purchasing all the fittings and hoses for a fraction of the cost myself. But decided to go this way to eliminate more hoses running through the car creating an unnecessary potential leak in the future. Hope this helps.

 

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I have two of those on my road racing car, which is why I mentioned it back in post #8. My routine was to start the car, let it warm up for a minute or two, which heats the coolant and pressurizes the cooling system. If you press the bleeder button and get coolant, you are good to go. You'll quickly learn how long you have to wait for there to be pressure in the system. Don't push the button if there isn't any, you'll just allow air into the bleed hose.

If you constantly get air out the bleeder, something needs to be fixed (leak) or improved (cavitation).
 
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