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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since the wcd isn't dialed in nd fear of warranty being denied,I think ill do a stage 5 with Adam .

For your Arctic Cat, we offer many different stages of clutch work to help get the maximum gains out of your machine. Depending on your tire size, motor mods, and riding style we may recommend different stages of work to help meet your needs and fit your riding style so that your machine will maintain peak performance. We offer these stages for your factory clutches:

Stage 1 - Machining the inner and outer primary sheaves to allow the belt to drop lower in the primary gaining you a lower gear ratio to pull bigger tires easier, giving you better throttle response and better throttle control especially when running larger tires. Our machining gains a lower gear ratio than any shim mod or clutch kit can ever compare to, for the maximum low end gains, machining the primary clutch is the only way to go!

Stage 2 - Fixed plate modification. This is when we cut and modify the ramp angles of the fixed plate in the primary clutch. This modification changes the ramp angles of the primary clutch which changes the shiftout rate of the clutch holding your clutch in its midrange longer helping you maintain peak power thru the midrange, this modification also allows the rollers to push the movable sheave closed further, usually netting 5-7mph more top speeds.

Stage 3 - Spacer sleeve modification. The stage 3 work is necessary on arctic cat mudpro clutches, and is also necessary for any stage above stage 3. If you plan on a stage 5 setup, stage 3 is a must to get the proper belt alignment after stage 4.

Stage 4 - Complete lightening of the primary clutch, lightens the primary further, and since we take out more material in order to lighten the clutch is why the spacer sleeve has to be shortened in the primary in order to keep the proper belt alignment.

Stage 5 - Machining the secondary clutch to allow the secondary to open further allowing the belt to ride lower in the secondary without increasing the secondary spring tension past a certain point. This allows the secondary to open easier, so it is easier for the machine to gain top speeds. A full stage 5 setup will usually net 7-10mph top speed increase if your machine has the power to pull the taller gearing ratio. The machining will give you a taller gear ratio, it is purely up to your engine to pull the taller gear ratio. If you do not have enough power to pull any faster, you may not see any top speed gains.

Stage 5+ - Complete lightening of the secondary clutch. By lightening the secondary clutch we can make the secondary rev up faster which helps you accelerate faster.

Your factory clutch has plastic rollers with weighted inserts. When you build a clutch setup, it is imperative to get the engine turning the proper RPMs in order to make max power. The clutch rollers are your direct key to how many RPMs you engine turns. The lighter the rollers the more RPMs you turn, the heavier your rollers are the less RPMs you turn. By lightening the rollers to the proper weight we can make your engine rev to its proper RPM so that your engine makes peak power under loads. We have done the testing to find out what weight rollers suit each machine best with each of our modifications, all you have to do is ship in your factory rollers and we will lighten them or weigh them in order for your machine to make peak power!

We have spent SO many hours testing arctic cats, and we know one of their major limits is the wet clutch. We spent many many hours working on the wet clutch delete to get rid of the wet clutch, and it is alot of modifications and is costly. For those of you who dont want to go that far we have the MOD for you!!! Our new wet clutch shoes have been tested and developed with all the best materials for heat dissipation, grip, and power handling. These shoes are a mixture of materials to grip the wet clutch drum the best, dissipate the heat created from friction in the wet clutch drum, and hold the power from the crank and deliver it to the drum to keep your dry clutches turning. These shoes flat out dont slip like the stockers. If you have burned your factory drum you may need to send it in to get turned to get rid of the hardened grooves that are created by a slipping wet clutch.

The wet clutch delete is for those who are serious about power and putting it to the ground. Anyone that has ever smoked a wet clutch, or been outrun by a can-am or kawasaki know that your Arctic Cats main limit is the wet clutch. Getting rid of that slipping and power robbing wet clutch is by far the most extreme modification you can make in the power department. By getting rid of the wet clutch lag, slip, and power robbing weight, you can unleash more power than you ever dreamed your Arctic Cat had. With our wet clutch delete setup, you will need to ship us your wet clutch housing off your engine, along with your wet clutch that is bolted to your crankshaft. We will then build you a complete new primary clutch, along with machine your housing to accept our new shafts we built that deletes your wet clutch. This new primary clutch is a CVtech primary just as i sell for the can-am machines that makes them such a monster, and it will make your machine a monster too! The new wet clutch delete jackshaft i build, along with the new CVtech primary i build for your machine will free up nearly 7 pounds of rotating mass off your crankshaft allowing your engine to rev like it should, also since this wet clutch delete is getting rid of any slip, you unleash all the power your engine truly makes. Althought it is expensive, it will produce as low of a gear ratio as our normal machining to the factory clutches, along with getting rid of the wet clutch slip, and put all your power to the ground making your machine a whole new beast.

Stage 1 --------------------- $100 Stage 2 --------------------- $50 Stage 3 --------------------- $30 Stage 4 --------------------- $100 Stage 5 --------------------- $150 Stage 5+ ------------------- $170 Lightening rollers--------- $50 Wet Clutch Shoes ------ $230 Wet Clutch Delete
 

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I had planned on getting some clutch work done to my W/c, but Adam's response (or lack there of) after Jack's failure is hurting his credibility in my eyes.
 

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His stage 5 clutch work from what I know is actually really good. The wcd and stage 5 are completely different. Flying121 could chime in there better than most I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well how much of a difference,Ur right hvent heard from Adam in a while,but stage 5 might give me abetted option instead,even without rabbits problem,still other people say that they still need more tuning on it,its apparently not ready yet. Would u still have backshufting problems with atheists 5+,I really haven't felt what they are talking about backshifting?
 

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Don't get me wrong: I want nothing more than to be able to smoke my brother's Xp in a drag race. A stage 5 kit may be the answer, but until Adam says it's 100% ready, I'm not biting.
 

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Yes you can still have the backshifting problem. With all the machining done it can kinda feel like it has lower gear ratio from the start and taller gears on the top end. It depends on your riding style and area. But when you are climbing steep long pulls in high gear you need your engine to stay in the sweat spot of RPM to keep momentum. With the curent setup it wont do it. Like TX said its like keeping your truck in high gear pulling a trailer up a mountain. Your engine bogs.
 

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Yes you can still have the backshifting problem. With all the machining done it can kinda feel like it has lower gear ratio from the start and taller gears on the top end. It depends on your riding style and area. But when you are climbing steep long pulls in high gear you need your engine to stay in the sweat spot of RPM to keep momentum. With the curent setup it wont do it. Like TX said its like keeping your truck in high gear pulling a trailer up a mountain. Your engine bogs.
Did you just say to keep it in the "sweat spot"? That is just gross!!On more serious note, I was considering the same stage 5 mods when I get my wildcat. Unfortunately I have tried to get a little more info from Airdam with no luck. Tried calling, sending a PM, and multiple emails directly from his website link. No response. I was wondering how it compares to the WCD. But no answers for me. May have to look elsewhere.....
 

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As far as I know, the pussycat always want you to keep in in the sweet spot. But as a virgin vehicle it just doesn't know how to do it yet. LOL
 

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Jack are you in contactvwith Adam? If your the one having problems an he's contacting you then that's what matters he probably doesn't want to speak out until it's all figured out
 

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I have already installed the Stage 5 kit from Airdam and the first impression is it's definately worth the $400 investment. The motor revs quicker, it pulls harder and I am completely happy with it. The downside is I have only been able to drive it around my house and not in the dirt. I can't get out until later this month. My clutches were already at Adam's right before his trip to Glamis and the famous WCD crank issue. I chose to not go with the WCD because of the reported hammering of the SLD and potential shock loading of the gear box. With hind sight being 20/20, I am really glad I made the choice to go Stage 5.
 

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I have already installed the Stage 5 kit from Airdam and the first impression is it's definately worth the $400 investment. The motor revs quicker, it pulls harder and I am completely happy with it. The downside is I have only been able to drive it around my house and not in the dirt. I can't get out until later this month. My clutches were already at Adam's right before his trip to Glamis and the famous WCD crank issue. I chose to not go with the WCD because of the reported hammering of the SLD and potential shock loading of the gear box. With hind sight being 20/20, I am really glad I made the choice to go Stage 5.
Thanks for the report, Dune.....when ya get a chance to run her through paces, please let us know what ya think.
 

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I have already installed the Stage 5 kit from Airdam and the first impression is it's definately worth the $400 investment. The motor revs quicker, it pulls harder and I am completely happy with it. The downside is I have only been able to drive it around my house and not in the dirt. I can't get out until later this month. My clutches were already at Adam's right before his trip to Glamis and the famous WCD crank issue. I chose to not go with the WCD because of the reported hammering of the SLD and potential shock loading of the gear box. With hind sight being 20/20, I am really glad I made the choice to go Stage 5.
You're only 4 hrs from Glamis! Take the rest of the week off and go dune. :undwech:
 

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I find it interesting that he takes the time to post all the background covering 1 to 5 plus the WCD. Yet, he does not deliver the dynode performance gains for all stages (low, medium and top end performance). He indicates endless hours testing, where are the dyno results delivering the facts. I am sure the clutch is the issue with my Cat. With that said, I am going to add a pipe and also clutch work. My fear, there is more marketing around the Adam clutching option then performance gains. I will spend the money, but not until they deliver documented results. And, I do not mean a Youtube video of them showing a before and after Cat going down the street. I mean Dyno results!
 
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