[Oldcrow]

Got looking closer at my wet clutch and you can see there are 8 layers per shoe.
It is obvious the amount of force is not applied evenly across the entire shoe width.
You can see the layers on the left grip the hub first and the layer on the right hardly do anything.
The wear pattern on the inside of the hub shows the same with the left layers causing the most heat due to slip

Question is how do you fix this?
I'm sure new OEM parts will end in the same results

 

[kobe85]

Try a slug kit with new shoes and hub. It'll provide more to grip. More grip = less slip = less friction = less heat. That's just a theory though. Otherwise, airdam DID work on wildcat clutches but it's supposedly hard to get ahold of him.

 

[Catmandoo]

Slug kit^^^^^^ and raise Rpm up. Motor is revving higher, thereby making more power, or higher in the power band, thereby making more clamping or squeezing force on wet clutch. Viola. Sliders I think are better primary clutch.

 

[Oldcrow]

I understand a slug kit creating more clamping force but that seems to be a Band-Aid fix.
The main reason the wet clutch slips is because 50% of the shoe width is doing the work, the other 50% is along for the ride.
Installing a slug kit will increase clamping force but because the shoe surface and the hub are not parallel you will still only have half the shoe doing all the work

Because of these relaxed tolerances I start to wonder about shoe weight.
Are all 5 of the shoes the same so they create equal amount of clamping force?

 

[kobe85]

The shoes could not be perfectly square when they start to clamp. The hub also could not be perfectly square as well.

 

[TXGOAT]

It looks like the friction faces never bedded-in. Are you using a wet clutch compatible oil?

 

[Oldcrow]

The shoes could not be perfectly square when they start to clamp. The hub also could not be perfectly square as well.

Not sure I'm understanding your comment.
They could not square in my application (which caused the issue) or could not be square in any application?

 

[Oldcrow]

It looks like the friction faces never bedded-in. Are you using a wet clutch compatible oil?

I am using a quality, well known, wet clutch compatible engine oil

 

[WildcatManiac]

A good machine shop should be able to square the hub and the clutches if required.

Not an uncommon thing amongst friction clutches. Those are almost always pressed or stamped out of a single piece of steel. This process will not allow them to be square.

Now if someone machined the hub the wet clutch would be awesome......

 

[CRAWLR]

The whole shoe is making contact. You have even wear lines in the hub.

They are in the oil to keep them cool. They cool better on the edges so you have extra heat in the center from being worn and slipping. Once they start to slip they only get worse

Get a new hub and shoes and put slugs in them and there won't be enough slip to cause the heat.

 

[Arizonacrawler]

Peeps are telling you exactly the fix for this, the slug kit works, you will need to lighten rollers a bit to keep rpm up. I different secondary helix will probably help too. When I had the wet clutch system, I had it dialed in very good, no slip, and as good as performance as possible.

 

[Oldcrow]

The whole shoe is making contact. You have even wear lines in the hub.

They are in the oil to keep them cool. They cool better on the edges so you have extra heat in the center from being worn and slipping. Once they start to slip they only get worse

Get a new hub and shoes and put slugs in them and there won't be enough slip to cause the heat.

Good point. That is probably why my outer edges don't look worn, because they are being cooled with oil better.

Doing a little research it looks like in 2015 the drum/shaft (hub) was updated on ATV's and Prowler's that still use the 1000 H2 wet clutch
Old part number was 0823-365
New part number is 0823-556
Mine is dated 2013