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Discussion Starter #1
Ok.....I have searched and searched, and came up with nothing. The speedwerx clutch kit includes heavier wet clutch springs. I installed these last night....wow they are the toughest little springs I have ever dealt with. Has anyone else run this set up?

They are supposed to increase the engagement by 400 RPM.

Has anyone had problems with this setup?

I understand a wet clutch delete would be the best way to go....just don't have the scratch to do that right now.
 

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I have not messed with the clutch springs but I did change my weights/rollers and that made a big difference.
 

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Ok.....I have searched and searched, and came up with nothing. The speedwerx clutch kit includes heavier wet clutch springs. I installed these last night....wow they are the toughest little springs I have ever dealt with. Has anyone else run this set up?

They are supposed to increase the engagement by 400 RPM.

Has anyone had problems with this setup?

I understand a wet clutch delete would be the best way to go....just don't have the scratch to do that right now.
I have always wondered if there was a way to increase the grabbing power of the Wet Clutch. This sounds like one way to do it... I am a little confused by the statement that it increases engagement by "xxx" RPM's. Does that mean it engages that many RPM's earlier?

I also saw that Airdam offers an upgraded Wet Clutch. Wonder if his just has the heavier springs in it.

Obviously these options are nowhere near as beneficial as a WCD, but I am not ready to spend that much because ultimately I am going to go with a Z1
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The springs are stiffer, so it will take more rpm to spin them out to contact, this will make it start to move higher in the power band. Now will the stiffer springs make the shoes not enage as tight? No one so far as the answer. On a side not I am installing the arctic cat 303 rear spring in the b-1 position and installing a longer sleeve in the primary to make the belt sit down farther essential giving a lower start gear.


So my final clutching will be higher engagement and lower ratio on the belt drive with full rpm achieved my the 20 gram weights.

Any opinions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I purchased the clutch kit from speedwerx, it came withe the wet clutch springs and rollers. I am a little concerned about the springs, I have them in the clutch and it is setting in my bench. They do not have near the hooks that the factory springs did...could the come off? Putting them on was a PITA. I think going back to the factory springs would be real easy.

I only have about 240 invested in all the parts right now, and for crawling in the rocks and or tight mountain trails the wet clutch will not cost me enough power to notice. Most of the time I will be in low gear anyway.
 

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The springs are stiffer, so it will take more rpm to spin them out to contact, this will make it start to move higher in the power band. Now will the stiffer springs make the shoes not enage as tight? No one so far as the answer. On a side not I am installing the arctic cat 303 rear spring in the b-1 position and installing a longer sleeve in the primary to make the belt sit down farther essential giving a lower start gear.


So my final clutching will be higher engagement and lower ratio on the belt drive with full rpm achieved my the 20 gram weights.

Any opinions are welcome.
Thats what I was thinking... That stiffer springs would make hold the shoes in longer making it more like a stall clutch. That is definitely not what I want. I was thinking more along the lines of making the shoes grab harder, more like there wasn't a wet clutch present. Not sure how that could actually be accomplished though. My only thought would be to add weight to each shoe, so it takes less centrifugal force to push them out.
 

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I think what you will achieve by having the wet clutch engage at a higher rpm is burning up the wet clutch much quicker than normal.

Those springs were originally designed for mud racers who wanted a "higher stall" if you will to get them into the powerband better on launch from the line.

They will be working against you rock crawling, when rock crawling you need fine control not more sloppy engagement.
 

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WWevertt
I installed a 1mm longer clutch spacer and removed 2 of the stock weights, and clocked the rear. Works great, cost about $25. I use high gear almost always now, low only for slow speed high load conditions or just to go slow down steep grades. High speed is now around 60 - 64, plenty fast for what I do. Mostly trails, rocks, and sand one or twice a year. Oh yeah, 2400 miles on stock belt. Forgot, 2012 Cat, stock wet clutch.

Dwight
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the info, I talked to AJ yesterday and have a set of his sliders on the way. I am going to run in Moab this weekend with a/c 303 spring in b1, 20 gram rollers and 93mm sleeve in primary and Stock wet clutch springs. Then I will install AJs sliders and run them next time. I will report back and let everyone know my opinions.
 

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WW, I think 91's are stock. I'm using a 92, last year in Taylor Park I could do everything in Hi unless we stopped for something. Even in Moab the 92 worked good but we didn't do any really severe rock climbing. I will be interested to see your opinions on the 93.

Dwight
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ran the 93 around the house....hammered the gas it took off and hit the rev limiter for a second then pulled good and hard. Swung by the mailbox and AJs sliders were here. I put them in and easily got the most power to the wheels so far. So much that at a stop in the gravel road 2 wheel drive in low rolled the throttle on and slipped the SLD. no set up so far has been able to do that, and I run the same test at the same spot very differnt clutch set up.

Moab on Sunday. Will be running against just about everything out there, T-4s, wildcat x, xp 1000-4, jagged x, maverick max and a 12 cat tuned by the dealer with 26 inch big horns.
 
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