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Installed a new rear drive gear case. Was not having any problems with the original but wanted to pull it for a rebuild. Decided to order a new one from MLS so that I could remove and replace and do the rebuild at my leisure.
New drive belt. had over 2,000 miles on the current belt and wanted to see how long it would last. I just couldn't take it any more and changed it. The old belt still looks good but they always do until they don't!
Greased all wheel bearings while I had the axles out. Should be good to go. Going to try and get a bunch of rides in now that the 100 plus days are about over.
Happy labor Day.
 

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15 miles east of Kanab, utah. The plan is the high point you see behind the truck.
 

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This is in the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. Headed north after this pic. The cliffs just kept pulling me further than I had planned to go.
 

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Lunch spot. 80 mile ride in nice sandy trails. Wildcat ran great. It was a nice day.
 

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Cool pics! We hope to be in your area in January or February.
 

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I've had what I believe is vapor lock over the past year. Why now, I have no idea, other than the catalyst in the muffler seems to have gotten loose and the body of the muffler shows more heat discoloration than ever before. I did this while installing my low compression motor:
IMG_1090.JPG
I installed an outside-of-the-tank fuel pressure regulator and a 4 way distribution block in anticipation of my turbo installation, so my fuel system doesn't look much like the OEM version. I slipped Thermo-Tec insulated tubing over the fuel lines today (the silvery stuff in the pic), and did not have any of the usual hesitation. Our weather has cooled this week, so I can't quite call it a for-certain cure, but I believe it is now clear that the issue was indeed vapor lock, and anything you do to keep heat away from the fuel lines will improve things.

{edit} I put another 40 miles on the Wildcat yesterday and still no vapor lock symptoms. Yay!

This popped into my mind as far as a possible reason why this started happening: I'm about 99% certain that oxygen sensors report a lean condition when they start to fail. An overly rich mixture usually results in a hot catalytic converter.

{yet another edit} Rode hard today for several hours, including some hard ascents followed by sitting (and heat-soaking). I didn't realize it while it was happening, but as I checked the forum, I realized I had zero vapor locking issues today. I think the beast has been slain.
 

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I "renewed" the spark plug wire connections today. I was also curious to see if they were real wires or the carbon stuff. The plug wires are long enough to just cut off the last 1/2" at each end, which gets you back to fresh copper, then screw them back together. Easy-peasy. A couple of my connections were somewhat loose, so I think this was timely.
 

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The wife and I had a great ride today.
80 sandy miles in the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. The wildcat did good.
 

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I have been watching a lot of videos of all the new machines lately and the wildcat was getting jealous. A high speed rip through the desert this morning cured all that.
 

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I installed better steering system from 715wildcatriders and loving it.
How about a little more info? How hard was the installation? How does it work now? Does it turn any sharper?
I watched the 715wildcatriders install videos. We need after install reviews.
 

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Ditto! A hands-on review would be wonderful.

From what I've read, the 715 kit does result in a tighter turning radius, but... I don't know if that was compared to the older 1000's or to the newer ones that already turn a little sharper.

I also want to find the model number of the actual rack. From the bickering back and forth in the Wildcat Riders Facebook group between the original kit creator and a knock-off, I believe the complete bill of materials for the kit was posted, and I would rather fabricate my own kit for a couple of reasons.
1) I would incorporate a front receiver into the mounting plate
2) Getting bumpsteer "just right" can take hours and hours of tedious work (BTDT with .010" toe change from full droop to full compression on my pavement racer, but it probably took 30 hours to get there). I'd rather do it myself and know it is right.

A footnote: the 715 kit doesn't play well with Pace upper control arms.
 

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Throttle body cleaning time. Hard to start and running like doo doo. Ran good for 1k miles after cleaning last time and switching to a dry air filter. I need to do something with crankcase ventilation to keep the oil completly out of the air box and it might run good longer, but all I need is about another thousand miles before hopefully next year drive a new machine under this one.
 

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In addition to cleaning, you might check the accuracy of your MAP sensor. Mine (I have the original and a replacement) both read about 8% low, which is enough to make it run lean.

I thought the narrowband oxygen sensor signal should cause the ECM to clean that up on my '15 (first year for the oxygen sensor). I just installed a new narrowband and had gone to the wiring diagram to check wire colors. I found that the 2015 wiring diagram doesn't have the oxygen sensor on it! I'm sure this is probably just a mistake by AC document control and that the sensor really is active, but I'm looking into having my ECM flashed just to see if it suddenly "wakes up" and tunes for AFR.

To that end, does anyone know if the dealer can program the ECM without it being in the Wildcat? My trailer is temporarily unavailable.
 

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Ordered a new fuel pump. Supposed to be 42psi. Surprised it ran at all! Nothing a $300 fuel pump won’t cure. Slow to start then didn’t run descent till it revved up pretty good.

fuel pressure.jpg
 

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You probably don't want to read this, but the exact same Walbro pump is less than half of that from Quantum (WAL-PPN18). They also have fuel pressure regulators and filter socks.
 
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