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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace a section above the radiator where the hood attaches but I'm not sure if it's chromoly or what? Thanks.
 

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I had to research this question when I was doing some repair work to some cracked tubes on the front end. The answers that I found were HSLA. Unfortunately there are many grades of HSLA tubing. You can use 4130 but you will be overmatching the 4130 to the HSLA. After everything was said and done I chose to use DOM, as it will be a closer match to most HSLA tubes and it is also commonly used in roll cages (so is 4130). It welded just fine. I used er70s-2 in a CJP groove weld for the cracks and I used e71T-11 in all of the K joints in a fine globular transfer mode. This allowed me a little better penetration and better weld access due to the fact that I didnt have to use a nozzle (E71T-11 is self shielding and It is not as pretty as GMAW or GTAW, but it is just as strong!) I could of used ER70s-6 in a short circuit transfer mode as well and achieved similar results I just would not have been able to get as deep into the joint. Good luck post some pics up of your repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for all the details, the tube that runs above the headlight on the right side got crushed so I need to replace about a 20” section so hopefully it won’t be to bad.
 

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Crashly's suggestion is a good one. That area of the frame doesn't have to be super strong.

Columbia River Mandrel Bending sells bends online. I don't remember what that part looks like, but I would check to see if they have something that would work. Unless, of course, you already have a shop that can do a proper bend (not crush-bent).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was going to see if a muffler shop could bend the tubing if I brought it to them. I’ll use slugs inside the tubing where it’s welded for strength so it should be way stronger than factory.
 

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The average muffler shop uses machines that necks-down the tubing as it bends it, i.e. crush-bent. If I were looking to buy a used anything and found crush-bent repairs, I would walk away even if the rest of the machine was exactly what I was looking for.

Their equipment is also designed for exhaust tubing - very thin-wall stuff compared to a frame.
 

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775 is correct use a fab shop. FYI locally they charge a 40 setup fee and 10 per bend. I bet you somebody you know has a bender. What size it that tubing? Some have had good luck filling and packing a tube with sand and then using the harbor freight bender.
 

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After reading 775 and Crashly's posts, I kind of stepped back and took a wider view. No offense, but that muffler shop post makes me think the only thing you should do regarding this repair is write the check to pay for it.

I would look for one of three things: a shop that builds custom roll cages, a shop that supports the higher local levels of NASCAR type racing (i.e. anything with a tube frame chassis), or a shop that supports open wheel (formula car) SCCA road racing. The last two are usually clustered around a track. You can substitute other stock car sanctioning bodies for NASCAR or other road racing bodies like NASA for SCCA. Those shops will know how to make a correct repair, how to establish where the mounting points need to be based on the good side of your frame, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The piece of tubing that needs to be replaced is less than 2 feet long and has a single bend in it which is about 45 degrees so I could almost buy a piece from that Columbia River site and not have to bend anything but I'll figure out the bend needed based on the tube on the other side of the XX that isn't bent. Tubing is 1.5" but I'm not sure on the wall thickness yet since I haven't cut it off yet. I'll have it Tig welded with the slugs and it'll be perfect. Thanks for the tips.
 
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