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Discussion Starter #1
What we are all looking for is earlier engagement. I don't understand why all the clutch tuners can't figure that out. Textron/Speed set up the XX for desert racing. Everything else is secondary to them. The Speed kit makes it even worse for what most of us want to do. The stock setup and most of the kits are only good for a holeshot and wide open throttle.

I've put a lot of work into my clutch and it is getting close to what I want. Probably what most of you want. Early engagement, good low end pull, good backshift, the right RPM all the way to the top. It's not that hard. But it is expensive to try different things until you get it right.

Right now I have the heaviest Secondary spring Venom sells, the lightest Primary spring Speedwerx sells, and BD-Extreme 55-71g adjustable weights with the heal full of magnets, with the stock helix.

With this set up, I've dropped my engagement down to around 2500 and I can rock crawl at 3000 without cooking the belt.
2-3mph climbing and 3-4mph going down, as long as you can keep it engaged. I miss the one-way bearing in the RZR.
The 'on the throttle, off the throttle' twisty mountain and desert trails are awesome with the backshift and the low-end pull.
The midrange could have more RPM. I want to try some lighter adjustable weights so I can add more heal weight and keep the total down.
The engine braking is a little too agressive. I like it but I think a lot of people would want a different helix.
The top end is the same. The clutch shifts out a little sooner and then the RPM builds with the speed until it gets to the max

I'm probably not going to win a drag race with this setup, but I can do the things I want to do and that is more important
 

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I like the sound of your setup. I play in the mud on 35s. My main concern is low end power & low end engagement without smoking the belt, like you mentioned. I talked to Speedwerx & they said they can take care of that but I have to send my primary to them & it's gonna cost $500-700. Your setup sounds a lot more affordable Crawlr. Would you think your setup would be good for 35s in thick mud?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I like the sound of your setup. I play in the mud on 35s. My main concern is low end power & low end engagement without smoking the belt, like you mentioned. I talked to Speedwerx & they said they can take care of that but I have to send my primary to them & it's gonna cost $500-700. Your setup sounds a lot more affordable Crawlr. Would you think your setup would be good for 35s in thick mud?
Do you run low range or high? For high range this setup will need lighter weights. I'm going to try to find weights tomorrow to try. I also might have found a better primary spring. I'll know soon
 

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We creep through trails, a lot of mud, sand, hill climbs, some rocks here & there, almost always in low. Very rarely in high. Top end is of no concern to me.
 
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Are these the right parts for your setup CRAWLR? I'm sure I'm going to have to do something similar for my low end belt engagement while playing in the mud with these big tires.

251088


251089


251090
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep that's the Primary spring and weights I have
 

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When you say heel full of magnets, are you saying as many magnets as you can fit in the heel hole?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When you say heel full of magnets, are you saying as many magnets as you can fit in the heel hole?
I've been trying all kinds of stuff lately. I have about a dozen primary springs now and the only one lighter than the Speedwerx blue spring is a really light one I found from Venom. I haven't been able to try anything in the real world yet since the planet is closed but I'm still trying to figure some stuff out in the driveway. I still have more stuff to try.

For the weights I liked 3 magnets in the heal for decent rock crawling without totally killing the top end even though it does affect the top end quite a bit. I did try 3 weights in the next hole also (total of 6) just to see what it would do and the bottom end was even better but the top end was gone. That might be something you want to try. I don't really know what the high load of 35s in mud will do but I do know that these things need to grab the belt sooner and they need to grab harder. I'm curious to see what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just ordered these clutch weights, hopefully they work out good, got the 55-71. I have an all stock machine with 32" skat trak sand tires
I really liked how well these weights put the power to the ground without any magnets in them on a basically stock clutch. The engagement was about the same and the top end was about the same but the acceleration was better. Hopefully you have the same results
 

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I really liked how well these weights put the power to the ground without any magnets in them on a basically stock clutch. The engagement was about the same and the top end was about the same but the acceleration was better. Hopefully you have the same results
I have seen a few people suggest running them without any magnets so hopefully that's the ticket. I am only getting about 8500 rpms out of it now, so i'm hoping this brings up the rpms and gives better acceleration like yours did.
 

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Stupid question time. What tools are needed to replace the arms in the clutch?

after watching the only video i can find that shows the primary, it looks like i can just unbolt the arm and slide it out and back in without removing the primary. would that work?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Stupid question time. What tools are needed to replace the arms in the clutch?

after watching the only video i can find that shows the primary, it looks like i can just unbolt the arm and slide it out and back in without removing the primary. would that work?
Remove the belt and remove the cover on the primary that holds the spring and it is really easy to collapse the primary and get the weights out. Only rotate the primary counter clockwise by hand so you don't slack the timing chain. Clockwise could make it jump time and kill the valves.
 

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Remove the belt and remove the cover on the primary that holds the spring and it is really easy to collapse the primary and get the weights out. Only rotate the primary counter clockwise by hand so you don't slack the timing chain. Clockwise could make it jump time and kill the valves.
thank you!!! worked great but when I got the cam arm out it says DX6-55 on the arm which makes me think maybe it already a 55 gram which is the lowest I can go on the new arms and from what I read I will need lighter arms as I currently run at 8475 rpm and was trying to get it up to the suggested 9200
 

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ok got the 55-71 arms in with no weights and have the venom black green 200-280 secondary spring everything else is stock. only getting 8800 RPM now and it engages a little later than with just the venom spring and everything else stock. How can I get the Rpms up 400 and get a little sooner engagement?
 

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So here is where I am on clutching, still have some tuning to do...

Car setup is full exhaust (Trinity), Alba ECU tune, 32" tires.

Purchased a Speed SxS clutch kit (arms, primary and secondary springs, helix). Installed with the recommended weight config (heel to toe: 2-2-1-1). Hated the high engagement (4k rpm). Swapped back the primary spring for OEM, left everything as Speed recommended.

Right now, when I stab the throttle, it takes a second or two, then gets to 9000rpm, and sits there to about 65mph, then the RPM start slowly climbing (let off around 70 so not sure what max speed/RPM would have been). Thinking about changing to 2-1-1-1 on the weight... Or should take off the toe 2-2-1-0?

I believe max RPM with the Alba tune is 9,800rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok got the 55-71 arms in with no weights and have the venom black green 200-280 secondary spring everything else is stock. only getting 8800 RPM now and it engages a little later than with just the venom spring and everything else stock. How can I get the Rpms up 400 and get a little sooner engagement?
I have a few different primary springs to test next weekend along with a helix. You are pretty close to where I was with that combination and just like you I want lower engagement and higher WOT RPM. I think I have the stuff to get it. It is going to be a long weekend of testing
 

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So here is where I am on clutching, still have some tuning to do...

Car setup is full exhaust (Trinity), Alba ECU tune, 32" tires.

Purchased a Speed SxS clutch kit (arms, primary and secondary springs, helix). Installed with the recommended weight config (heel to toe: 2-2-1-1). Hated the high engagement (4k rpm). Swapped back the primary spring for OEM, left everything as Speed recommended.

Right now, when I stab the throttle, it takes a second or two, then gets to 9000rpm, and sits there to about 65mph, then the RPM start slowly climbing (let off around 70 so not sure what max speed/RPM would have been). Thinking about changing to 2-1-1-1 on the weight... Or should take off the toe 2-2-1-0?

I believe max RPM with the Alba tune is 9,800rpm.
How do you like the Trinity full exhaust? I was thinking of getting that or the Evo exhaust with their tune and clutch kit. Thanks.
 

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I have a few different primary springs to test next weekend along with a helix. You are pretty close to where I was with that combination and just like you I want lower engagement and higher WOT RPM. I think I have the stuff to get it. It is going to be a long weekend of testing
I also asked on fb and got some education on how these all work together so hopefully i can get it dialed in, I will let you know where mine ends up and waiting to hear how your testing works out!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I also asked on fb and got some education on how these all work together so hopefully i can get it dialed in, I will let you know where mine ends up and waiting to hear how your testing works out!

I read you post on FB. Some good info, some not so good. What I am trying to find is a primary spring that is low enough 'low number' with a higher 'high number'. The Dalton White/Violet is NOT it. I will send you one for $25 if you really want to try it but I think it is way too stiff. I Got a spring gauge and found that the Speedwerx blue stripe is about 72-160 on my gauge and I compare everything to that. We need 72 or lower and over 200 on the high end. I found a snowmobile spring that measures 60-220 on my gauge. Should be the best yet. The numbers they rate them at are all over the place depending on the height they test at. I test at the same height for all of them and most are not good for us.
 
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