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Speedwerx sells a spider removal tool, primary clutch holding fixture, and a primary clutch holder. Are these needed to swap out the spring & weights in the primary?
 

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No, those tools are only required to remove the spider and service the buttons.

The spring is usually long enough that you run out of cover bolt threads before the spring is fully extended. If you have big enough and strong enough hands, you can compress the cover and finish dis-assembly or re-assembly without any special tools.

Some springs are stiff enough that hand strength just isn't enough. When I'm home, I use my drill press like an arbor press. Quick and easy if you have a drill press large enough to hold the clutch.

You can also make most clutch removal tools into an assembly tool. I used a thick washer that will seat under the hex portion of the puller, a piece of tubing (or a pipe nipple) cut to the right length and a fender washer to protect the clutch cover from the tubing or pipe spacer. Put the spring and cover on the clutch, then use the clutch puller assembly to compress the spring until you can install the cover bolts.
 

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Good to hear! Thanks!
 

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I got a secondary spring from Venom Products. It's black and is 180/240. It fixed my studder.step on throttle engagement. I've been doing business with this group for several years. Always quick to answer my questions with a quick reply.
 

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Well guys, got my Tracker back up and running. I just swapped out the rear (driven) spring with the 200 - 280 spring from SpeedWerx and I've got to say, I am absolutely impressed. It has been a little sluggish with the 32's but this really woke it up. Honestly, it feels much smoother throughout the powerband and when I step on it, I used to get 8200 - 8400 until it topped out then it would climb slowly. Now when I stab the throttle, it jumps straight to 9400 and pulls super hard while steadily climbing to around 9800. This is without any ecu flashing or anything else. Just the 1 spring made a huge difference in my machine. I was under the impression I may run into a rev limiter issue but it doesn't seem to be an issue. Then again, I've heard Tracker turned off or modified a few things in the ecu that it didn't like. Maybe the rev limiter is bumped up. I do know the 75mph is still there which is a bummer.
 

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Since I had everything torn apart due to the reverse failure, I decided to play with the clutch. I put the light Speedwerx spring in the primary with the 55-71 adjustable weights (heel full of weights) & the heavy Venom spring in the secondary. That 200-280 Venom spring is no joke. I needed to use a hydraulic press to get the cover down so I could bolt it back together. Does that sound right?
 

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Since I had everything torn apart due to the reverse failure, I decided to play with the clutch. I put the light Speedwerx spring in the primary with the 55-71 adjustable weights (heel full of weights) & the heavy Venom spring in the secondary. That 200-280 Venom spring is no joke. I needed to use a hydraulic press to get the cover down so I could bolt it back together. Does that sound right?
Ya. It is a stout spring for sure but I love the way it works even with my stock primary. It smoothed out the machine a bunch and of course, bumped the rpm's up to the 9200 - 9400 range when I stand on it. I've had my Tracker hit 9800 before. Makes me wonder if they have a different rev limiter setting.
 

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I just went out behind the shop & putted around a little bit. I'm not getting any belt engagement until 4,000 rpm. That's pretty high. Do I have the weights in the right place? Currently the hole closest to the pivot of the weight (I'm assuming is the heel) is full of magnets. 9 total. Should I add magnets to the next hole or should the magnets be at the tip to engage earlier? Other than the springs & weights, all other clutching is stock. I'm also dealing with 35" tires.
 

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Primary: Speedwerx 80-190
Secondary: Venom 200-280
 

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Belt engagement is the balance point between the primary spring and the flyweights. You really shouldn't talk about one without the other, and you can change the engagement RPM by changing either one. drpalo has adjustable flyweights, so that is probably where he should go first.

drpalo, you have the concept down. If you move the magnets to the tip, they will have more effect. I would spread the magnets out and re-test.

On our X (and the clutch puller is the same as the XX), I added a collar and spacer that turned the puller into a tool to compress the spring. I could then swing the arms out and manipulate the magnets without removing the clutch.

And speaking of magnet handling, I kept an Xacto knife in my clutch tuning kit. The blade is handy for separating magnets when they are stacked, and holding them while you apply them to the correct hole. In my experience, you should never handle the magnets with pliers - they chip really easily and and magnet that is chipped should be discarded - it will take the clutch out of balance.
 

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Yesterday afternoon I filled the second hole (from the heel) with weights. Engagement dropped from 4,000 rpm to around 2,900.

Everything I've read online says for low end, add weight to the heel & for high end, add weight to the tip...
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Primary: Speedwerx 80-190
Secondary: Venom 200-280

What color is the Speedwerx spring? My 80-190 is black with a blue stripe. You should get engagement below 3000 without any magnets. 55 grams usually works pretty well with that spring. Adding weight should drop your top end quite a bit so don't get too aggressive. Adding weight to the tip will make the top end even worse and it won't really help engagement since the tip is tucked behind the pivot until you get moving. I'm wondering if something else isn't right. Sticky primary? Not the blue stripe? spring not seated properly?
 

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i don't pay much attention to my rpm's but the speedwerx H5 Alloy Secondary Clutch Spring 180/240 works great for us over the oem one when going down hills to keep the engine braking engaged...i hate riding the brakes any more than i have to...
 

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Crawlr, it isn't possible for the tip magnet to be so far behind the pivot point that it has no effect. If you mean it is outside the tangent of the pivot point a bit, it still has tremendous leverage. For it to have no effect on engagement, the flyweight would have to be rotated outside of the cover.
 

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What color is the Speedwerx spring? My 80-190 is black with a blue stripe. You should get engagement below 3000 without any magnets. 55 grams usually works pretty well with that spring. Adding weight should drop your top end quite a bit so don't get too aggressive. Adding weight to the tip will make the top end even worse and it won't really help engagement since the tip is tucked behind the pivot until you get moving. I'm wondering if something else isn't right. Sticky primary? Not the blue stripe? spring not seated properly?
Speedwerx spring is black with a blue stripe & is seated correctly. When I had the primary apart, I had to manually slide the sheaves together to get access to the cams. Is this what you mean by sticky primary? When there's no spring tension, should the spider/sheave just freely/easily fall down towards the other sheave due to gravity? Mine did not do that.
 

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So.. with the new primary spring and my weights at 2-1-1-1 went out to the dez yesterday. Was in Smith/Wellington NV (my buddies call it "swellington"), which is around 4,800ft elevation. Hit 81mph on GPS before I let off, but was taching 9,000 RPM and still climbing in speed....

Also hit some tighter rocky climbing sections and was very satisfied with the low RPM engagement.
 

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went out to the dunes over the weekend and was very disappointing, with the 32" skat traks it was still running at 8300-8500 rpms weights were 1-0-0-0

then the weird part. Last ride of the trip I run up the freeway (steepish hill) and it would only hit 7900-8000 rpm could only climb half way (all other times could go to the top running about 30 mph at 8300-8500 rpm) tried two more times both with the same result 7900-8000 rpm and could not go more than half way up
 
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